bigger front brake rotors - problem
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
bigger front brake rotors - problem
OK, as its gotten cold here and snows coming (supposed to) I decided to tackle my one big project for the Winter......and thats big front rotors.
I got the brackets from Corvette Engineering,13" gas slotted rotors and billet at from Coleman. The hat is 1/16" more offset than stock, but nothing to big, everything was going well until I realised the center hole is different. The stock rotor has a 2.8" hole and the coleman has a 3.08" hole....which is a problem as the rotor wont center.
My idea is this, to buy two hub centric rings (one for each side) to fit over the spindle ( a 71.5mm to 78mm should work) that shudl center the rotor before i bolt the wheel on....
Any thoughts, ideas?? Norval?? Kieth (corvetteengineering)?? Twin Turbo??
thanx
Nick
I got the brackets from Corvette Engineering,13" gas slotted rotors and billet at from Coleman. The hat is 1/16" more offset than stock, but nothing to big, everything was going well until I realised the center hole is different. The stock rotor has a 2.8" hole and the coleman has a 3.08" hole....which is a problem as the rotor wont center.
My idea is this, to buy two hub centric rings (one for each side) to fit over the spindle ( a 71.5mm to 78mm should work) that shudl center the rotor before i bolt the wheel on....
Any thoughts, ideas?? Norval?? Kieth (corvetteengineering)?? Twin Turbo??
thanx
Nick
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
Are you saying that the hole in the center of the hat is to big for the hub?
I went with the VB&P piece and stock rotor dia for now.
A couple of thoughts...
CNC up a spacer that mates the two holes and slips over the lug studs
Turn up a ring that press fits or threads into the hat
Check to see if a 58-64 impala /half ton chevy/S10 ect...hub uses a bigger center bore/same bearings and redrill them for 5 on 4.75 or not
Aftermarket alloy hub?
VB&P Hub and return the hats you have?
I went with the VB&P piece and stock rotor dia for now.
A couple of thoughts...
CNC up a spacer that mates the two holes and slips over the lug studs
Turn up a ring that press fits or threads into the hat
Check to see if a 58-64 impala /half ton chevy/S10 ect...hub uses a bigger center bore/same bearings and redrill them for 5 on 4.75 or not
Aftermarket alloy hub?
VB&P Hub and return the hats you have?
Last edited by 84rzv500r; Jan 17, 2007 at 07:13 PM. Reason: add pic
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
yes, the hole is too big, its 3.08, compared to the hub being 2.8.
I can't return the hats, they where custom drilled to 5 x 4.75 and the bolt pattern is 8 bolt on 7-5/8, so I am not sure the VB&P hub will fit.
I could kick myself, never even thought about the center bore when i ordered them, was more worried about the bolt pattern and offset.
Nick
I can't return the hats, they where custom drilled to 5 x 4.75 and the bolt pattern is 8 bolt on 7-5/8, so I am not sure the VB&P hub will fit.
I could kick myself, never even thought about the center bore when i ordered them, was more worried about the bolt pattern and offset.
Nick
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
What happens if you let the lugs center the rotor? The holes usually are a nice fit. If the rotor slides nicely over the lugs and doesn't seem too loose a fit give it a try.
Other then that I would go for a machined spacer but it is only .100 thick, getting pretty small.
Other then that I would go for a machined spacer but it is only .100 thick, getting pretty small.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
Yeah I know it's not a normal hat...
The spacer that I was thinking of would mount outside the hat and over the studs but under the wheel... taking up the radial distance between the hat and the existing hub and stick out to provide a 2.8 mounting flange for hub centric wheels... you could also fine tune the track...
.100 for the innie, .125 for the lug flange and a .250 lip for the wheel so some 0.5 thick 7075 should do it....
The spacer that I was thinking of would mount outside the hat and over the studs but under the wheel... taking up the radial distance between the hat and the existing hub and stick out to provide a 2.8 mounting flange for hub centric wheels... you could also fine tune the track...
.100 for the innie, .125 for the lug flange and a .250 lip for the wheel so some 0.5 thick 7075 should do it....
Last edited by 84rzv500r; Jan 17, 2007 at 08:07 PM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
would you be interested in helping make it???
I think I have a couple of choices right now.
1.The wholes in the hat are for slightly bigger wheel studs, so i could change oput the studs for a tighter fit and see if that centers the rotor.
2. A hubcentric ring around the hub and see if that works.
3. Chamfer the stud holes, fasten conical seat lug nuts onto it, that should center the rotor, then rivet the rotor onto the hub!!.
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. ..I love this stuff LOL.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
Tripod mirrors....I shoud have my first prototype finished this weekend....
Thinking of your idea, the plate could fit under the rotor, between the hub and rotor, (would have to be drilled 5 x 4.75 to fit over the lug nuts) and this would make up for the extra hat offset.....hmmm has me thinking now.
Nick
Thinking of your idea, the plate could fit under the rotor, between the hub and rotor, (would have to be drilled 5 x 4.75 to fit over the lug nuts) and this would make up for the extra hat offset.....hmmm has me thinking now.
Nick
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
dosent have to fit under the rotor, just extend into the 2.8-3.08 void like a hub centering ring only stronger I guess thinking about it you don't need anything out the front side cause the hub is there already... 1/4 plate would work. The time is in setting up the jig to fixture and locate properly...
Oh stupid me... put it between the hat and the hub... Flip it over and fix your offset and your hub problem all at once though ending up with .063 left would be better done in stainless sheet on the CNC plasma and machine a spacer to zero fill tig to it set up on a spare hub as a jig... I'm not a good enough welder to do that but I know a few guys who could...
Oh stupid me... put it between the hat and the hub... Flip it over and fix your offset and your hub problem all at once though ending up with .063 left would be better done in stainless sheet on the CNC plasma and machine a spacer to zero fill tig to it set up on a spare hub as a jig... I'm not a good enough welder to do that but I know a few guys who could...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Yeah I know it's not a normal hat...
The spacer that I was thinking of would mount outside the hat and over the studs but under the wheel... taking up the radial distance between the hat and the existing hub and stick out to provide a 2.8 mounting flange for hub centric wheels... you could also fine tune the track...
.100 for the innie, .125 for the lug flange and a .250 lip for the wheel so some 0.5 thick 7075 should do it....
The spacer that I was thinking of would mount outside the hat and over the studs but under the wheel... taking up the radial distance between the hat and the existing hub and stick out to provide a 2.8 mounting flange for hub centric wheels... you could also fine tune the track...
.100 for the innie, .125 for the lug flange and a .250 lip for the wheel so some 0.5 thick 7075 should do it....
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
I have direct access to the basics, the fancier stuff takes some grease..
I'm looking for an easy and safe way out...
I looked at the wilwood site and it looks like using the rivit holes may work 'cause the thinnest hat I see in alloy is 0.25... some are 0.50 171-2233
or 170-1827 
or something with a different hat offset and redrilled....
Tapered head fine thread should work...
some careful measuring using a hub and a ring to locate... check the runout axial and radial. you could just use the spindle assembly as the fixture...
A Mill is all you need... If you dont have CNC in 2 axis, you could use a rotory table or DRO and a Calculator or Old school turning the *****....
H&LL you could prolly bolt it down in the right place and use a well set up drill press through the back side of the hub and then flip it over...
I'm looking for an easy and safe way out...
I looked at the wilwood site and it looks like using the rivit holes may work 'cause the thinnest hat I see in alloy is 0.25... some are 0.50 171-2233
or 170-1827 or something with a different hat offset and redrilled....Tapered head fine thread should work...
some careful measuring using a hub and a ring to locate... check the runout axial and radial. you could just use the spindle assembly as the fixture...
A Mill is all you need... If you dont have CNC in 2 axis, you could use a rotory table or DRO and a Calculator or Old school turning the *****....
H&LL you could prolly bolt it down in the right place and use a well set up drill press through the back side of the hub and then flip it over...
Last edited by 84rzv500r; Jan 17, 2007 at 10:58 PM. Reason: part number...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 16,416
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From: NC,USA
Why don't you take the hubs and discs to the machine shop and have the lug's picked up, add two more holes to locate the rotor... and counter sick some machine screws.
I think it is safe to say that the lugs take the load from stopping... not the shoulder. If the face of the hub is true to the rotor, you won't have much run out to deal with... And if the lugs are concentric to the diameter of the disc there won't be any balance problems.
Thats just what I would do.
I think it is safe to say that the lugs take the load from stopping... not the shoulder. If the face of the hub is true to the rotor, you won't have much run out to deal with... And if the lugs are concentric to the diameter of the disc there won't be any balance problems.
Thats just what I would do.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
I think I have a couple of choices right now.
1.The wholes in the hat are for slightly bigger wheel studs, so i could change oput the studs for a tighter fit and see if that centers the rotor.
2. A hubcentric ring around the hub and see if that works.
3. Chamfer the stud holes, fasten conical seat lug nuts onto it, that should center the rotor, then rivet the rotor onto the hub!!.
.
