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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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Default Loose steering

When driving my 68 the the steering feels like it is loose almost like it is floating. The ball joints, tie rod ends, and the A arm bushings were replaced about a year ago. I don't know if the steering box is original but I can not feel any play when ths car is stopped. This makes the car difficult to drive. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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I had some serious steering slop problems with my '79. Replacing the power steering valve and cylinder solved my problems. If you have PS, check these
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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You can also tighten up your steering box. Look for the big slotted adjustment screw and lock nut. I'd try that first. It's cheaper.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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If you tighten up that screw improperly, you will permanently damage otherwise good gears. The box needs to be rebuilt if it's sloppy. Adjusting that screw will act like a band aid on a broken arm. It'll work for a little bit, but it's still broken.

PM a forum member here, GTR1999, as he rebuilds these, and is about as good as it gets. He will walk you through it all, and give you the best advice to his knowledge.

Here's the PM link to GTR1999:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/priv...o=newpm&u=2241
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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Be sure to check your flexible coupler (rag joint) too. There is an excellent article on this subject titled "Flexible Couplers, Everything You Ever Wanted To Know and More" at http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com courtesy of Jim Shea. Read the whole article. I replaced everything you mentioned too and still had a "loose" feel to the steering. Replaced the Rag Joint and everything tightened right up. Don't be tempted get one of those el cheapo repair kits for ten bucks, spend the $60 to $80 dollars it will cost you to get a genuine Saginaw Coupler.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 07:05 AM
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Jim
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
If you tighten up that screw improperly, you will permanently damage otherwise good gears. The box needs to be rebuilt if it's sloppy. Adjusting that screw will act like a band aid on a broken arm. It'll work for a little bit, but it's still broken.

PM a forum member here, GTR1999, as he rebuilds these, and is about as good as it gets. He will walk you through it all, and give you the best advice to his knowledge.

Here's the PM link to GTR1999:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/priv...o=newpm&u=2241


It's not just a matter of tightening the screw.

The correct adjustment procedure requires the use of an inch-pound torque wrench and the proper technique.... with the pitman arm or control valve temporarily removed from the gear box. If you over-tighten it, you ruin the gears.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by stock76
Don't be tempted get one of those el cheapo repair kits for ten bucks, spend the $60 to $80 dollars it will cost you to get a genuine Saginaw Coupler.

Can you suggest a good place to get these?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hgm
When driving my 68 the the steering feels like it is loose almost like it is floating. The ball joints, tie rod ends, and the A arm bushings were replaced about a year ago. I don't know if the steering box is original but I can not feel any play when ths car is stopped. This makes the car difficult to drive. Any ideas?
also dont overlok the idler arm in addition to all stated above
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
also dont overlok the idler arm in addition to all stated above

Luckily most good kits come with this item. The one I bought did not have it, so I bought a local one for $35 I think. It was a Moog, so it matched the brand of everything I got from Zip.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
also dont overlok the idler arm in addition to all stated above
while going thru my 78 i found the two bolts holding the idler arm were loose
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by redc3
while going thru my 78 i found the two bolts holding the idler arm were loose

Considering how hard that crappy thing was to get in and out...it was probably a former owner who tried to replace it, got frustrated, walked away to cool, and forgot to finish it up.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Can you suggest a good place to get these?
I got mine from Davies Corvette in New Port Richey, FL www.corvetteparts.com. They sell an import rag joint for $39.95 and an OEM steering coupler made by Saginaw for $59.95. For only twenty bucks difference why take a chance? I'm sure you can still get one through GM Parts Direct or a Local GM dealer too as well as other sources. There are two different ones for the C-3 though, one for the 68/ early 69 (PN # 7806391) and one for late 69 on up (PN #7818568). The later one has a flat on the flange so it will mate up to the flat on the input shaft. The earlier one does not. The two couplers are not interchangeable (thanks again to Jim Shea's steering papers at www.corvettefaq.com).
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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I think in this case it's best to get a new GM unit...the expensive one. I would not want to install a budget part when it's the only thing between the wheels and I.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I think in this case it's best to get a new GM unit...the expensive one. I would not want to install a budget part when it's the only thing between the wheels and I.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom454


It's not just a matter of tightening the screw.

The correct adjustment procedure requires the use of an inch-pound torque wrench and the proper technique.... with the pitman arm or control valve temporarily removed from the gear box. If you over-tighten it, you ruin the gears.


Anyone who claims he can do the job right with the pitman arm on and without a 25 or 50 in-lb full scale torque wrench is fooling himself.....
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Just a word of caution concerning flexible couplings. There have been several Corvette owners that have reported that their steering wheel was upside down when they installed a new flexible coupling. The problem is that the flange on the flexible coupling has been machined incorrectly. The flat is machined on the wrong side of the flange bore.



I am quite sure that it is not the OEM flexible couplings that were originally manufactured by Saginaw that are incorrect.

When you install the flexible coupling, your steering gear should be right on center. This means that the flat on the input shaft should be right at 12 o'clock (looking at the input shaft from the driver position.) When you install the flexible coupling, the stop pins should be at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. The big shoulder bolt (3/8-24) should be at the 9 o'clock position, the smaller shoulder bolt (5/16-24) should be at 3 o'clock. The pinch bolt that attatches the flange to the gear input shaft should be vertical with the bolt head sticking straight up. (You should be able to tighten the bolt by reaching over the front fender.)

If I get a good picture of the incorrect flexible coupling, I will post them.
Jim
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stock76
Be sure to check your flexible coupler (rag joint) too. There is an excellent article on this subject titled "Flexible Couplers, Everything You Ever Wanted To Know and More" at http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com courtesy of Jim Shea. Read the whole article. I replaced everything you mentioned too and still had a "loose" feel to the steering. Replaced the Rag Joint and everything tightened right up. Don't be tempted get one of those el cheapo repair kits for ten bucks, spend the $60 to $80 dollars it will cost you to get a genuine Saginaw Coupler.
The repair kits are fine, if you get one with the proper shoulder bolts. Mine has been working fine for the better part of a decade with a Help! brand repair kit installed.

Originally Posted by Jim Shea
Just a word of caution concerning flexible couplings. There have been several Corvette owners that have reported that their steering wheel was upside down when they installed a new flexible coupling. The problem is that the flange on the flexible coupling has been machined incorrectly. The flat is machined on the wrong side of the flange bore.
It's possible to get this condition with the repair kit...I got mine back together upside down, and never felt like fixing it. With the Jeep Box and poly body mounts on the way in, I'm just going to use a Borgeson u-joint.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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So if we get the GM correct Saginaw joint it will be fine no matter what right?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
So if we get the GM correct Saginaw joint it will be fine no matter what right?
Unless Saginaw started putting them together backwards.
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