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I was looking at both of these 383 kits from CNC-Motorsports. I was particularly interested in the first kit, which is what they call the Budget Performance kit because it has the Speed-Pro pistons, instead of the KB pistons. However, he did not know the part number for the pistons because they are a kit from Eagle.
I was looking at the internal balance set-up. The tech also told me that if I had to clearance the rods, it would not have to be rebalanced because you usually only remove less than .5 gram from the rod anyway. BTW, the second kit costs $90.00 bucks extra to balance.
What are your thoughts on these 2 kits and whether it would have to be rebalanced after cam clearancing?
With a high performance high RPM motor, it's always a good idea to have it balanced by a local machine shop just before you assemble everything in the block.
With a high performance high RPM motor, it's always a good idea to have it balanced by a local machine shop just before you assemble everything in the block.
What would you consider high RPM? This probably won't be set up to exceed 6,000 RPM.
Call Matt at M&R engines and ask what they charge for a balanced rotating assembly - he's great to work with and they have great deals, I just bought my 383 short block from them.
They have a 383 short block with cast crank and forged rods and pistons for $1450, $1600 shipped - includes flexplate and balancer... not much more than you're going to spend on the rotating assembly and the machine work on your old block....just an idea....
It looks like both are cast assemblies so you will not want to spin either past 5000-5500 rpm's. The second one looks like the rods are upgraded so will probably handle the higher R's. I got my assembly from speedway motors and they clearanced the rods before balancing, I would call to check on this. These look like good low buck assemblies that will easily get you into the 400's torque and horses.
Ok, I should have prefaced it with the fact that I am trying to stay around the $800-$850 or below range. I thought that the first kit looked pretty good. When I asked the guy at CNC-Motorsports, he told me that they are less expensive because Eagle is trying to get rid of them so they are selling them to wholesalers for next to nothing.
He also said that they only come with the Speedpro pistons, not the Keith Black pistons, but I know that jackson prefers Speedpro to KB.
I was looking at both of these 383 kits from CNC-Motorsports. I was particularly interested in the first kit, which is what they call the Budget Performance kit because it has the Speed-Pro pistons, instead of the KB pistons. However, he did not know the part number for the pistons because they are a kit from Eagle.
I was looking at the internal balance set-up. The tech also told me that if I had to clearance the rods, it would not have to be rebalanced because you usually only remove less than .5 gram from the rod anyway. BTW, the second kit costs $90.00 bucks extra to balance.
What are your thoughts on these 2 kits and whether it would have to be rebalanced after cam clearancing?
Check out www.tandlengine.com they built my internally balanced 383, I believe they are selling an internally balanced rotating assembly. the phone number is on their website, call and ask for Lloyd McLeary the owner. They did a great job on my 383 build and there are no vibration in engine. I would recommend this over buying a balanced kit from a parts wharehouse. Tand L has all the experience and skills and equip, to do it right, they also build Nascar engines.
I have heard of Ohio Crankshaft before, but it seems like Eagle and Scat are always at the top of everyone's cast crank list. Does anyone have any experiences, good or bad, with Ohio Crankshaft?
Call Matt at M&R engines and ask what they charge for a balanced rotating assembly - he's great to work with and they have great deals, I just bought my 383 short block from them.
They have a 383 short block with cast crank and forged rods and pistons for $1450, $1600 shipped - includes flexplate and balancer... not much more than you're going to spend on the rotating assembly and the machine work on your old block....just an idea....
Do you have a number for them? I already have a block that just needs clearanced, but I can check with them on a rotating assembly.
I was particularly interested in the first kit, which is what they call the Budget Performance kit because it has the Speed-Pro pistons, instead of the KB pistons. However, he did not know the part number for the pistons because they are a kit from Eagle.
if they're too lazy to find & provide you a good part number ... I'd go elsewhere. Ask again ... Let us know what P/N is.
How accurate would you expect their stated compression ratio to be when they don't even know the piston P/N? ... yes I know dome volume can be measured (& then scr) ... but do you really think they know what the dv is when they don't know the P/N? Notwithstanding, their stated cr is in the ballpark.
I called CNC again and they said that they do not know that piston part number because the kit comes directly from Eagle. I did cross-reference the kit number on a few other sites that sell the Eagle kits, and all of the sites, including Summit list the piston as -12cc, but do not list the part number.
On a different note, I called Ohio Crankshaft regarding their 383 Street rotating assembly. It lists for $495 + $200 for balancing + $25 for dish pistons (H859CP) + $100 to upgrade to new bushed rods (instead of the re-con pressed rods). I figured this one would get to my door around $860.00. The rods are already cam clearanced. It is external balance, though.
Does anyone have any opinions, positive or negative, about Ohio Crankshaft parts?
Well I don't have a failure point but we take our forged eagle cranks out past 7500, sometimes 8000 without any problems. We see most crankshafts die from torque, not so much RPM; that's the connecting rods area of expertise! I mean heck, we've spun stock production cast cranks out to 7300 in hobby stocks for years and have never had one fail!
Ohio Crankshaft has been around for a long time. They advertise in national dragster (how I found them) and they came highly recomended by my engine builder. Its a small shop that stands behind their work, all material come with metelergy/ tracibility reports and made in the USA. They have many different kits (I think I used the street rodder 383) for many different applications and can talk intelegently on the subject over the phone. They have a web site so check it out.
I got a 383 kit from them, the coated crank fitted the block with no modifications and the look and feel is better that anything I've seen from Eagle, cheaper too.
If you are on a budget there is nothing wrong with a cast crank or stock GM rods if they have been worked over and ARP rod bolts installed. For years all had to use were the stock 400 cranks turned down along with the stock 400 rods to boot. I had the cranks nitrided but would run this combo to 6,000 daily with a 125 shot of NOS and those motors lived a long time. The Scat and Eagle cranks are an even better Nodular cast material with more tolerance to breakage. It sounds like Ohio Crank may be your best bet.