oil pan
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You'll have to remove the frame bolts that hold down the motor mounts, and lift the engine a bit. Be careful you don't crush the distributor on the firewall.
Also, this is a good chance for you to upgrade to the wonderful FelPro one piece rubber oil pan gasket. It's awesome in every way, and install is super easy with the alignment pins that come with it.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Just undo the idler arm from the frame and drop the steering rod assembly down as low as possible. The pan will have plenty of clearance at this point for easy removal. Done it many times.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Personally, I had a hell of a time unbolting the idler arm when I replaced it. I cussed a lot and threw a few tools. I tried form above, then below, then above...took the wheel off...it was a royal pain in the...
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
I do not have the tools to do this so.........
Take your time, the idler arm is not as easy to get to as the valve covers, but I thought easier than the auto transmission lockout clip on the steering column. It took me an evening after work (includes dinner break) to do the complete swap - maybe 3 hours including the oil change.
Take your time, the idler arm is not as easy to get to as the valve covers, but I thought easier than the auto transmission lockout clip on the steering column. It took me an evening after work (includes dinner break) to do the complete swap - maybe 3 hours including the oil change.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
If your rear main seal is leaking, it's a great time to replace it. Also, use the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket when reassembling the pan. It comes with studs which helps tremendously with the reinstall. Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Had you ever replaced the either of those before the work? That idler was horrible to get out with headers in there, and if you separate an original tie you should plan to replace it and everything else while you're down there.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Yes. Basically, the oil pan has to come off. To do this you can either raise the engine a little or lower the suspension by unbolting the idler arm.
Then, drain the oil and take off the pan.
The rear main cap is what needs to come down. The cap will have one side, and the other side will have to be pushed from behind the crank. You will only see it's two feet. I use anything plastic or wood that'll allow me to push on one of the feet and not scratch the journal.
It may be tough at first, but once you get that first little bit pushed out just grab it with some pliers and yank her out.
Replacing that part is just as hard because you have to get it started first, and that's the tricky part. Once it's started though it'll slide right in. I lube mine before I install them to help get them all the way around the back of the crank.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
That sounds pretty basic to do,,,,,what do I torque the cap bolts down to when I tighten it down.
And would that be a chance to replace the bolts with ARP studs ?? I would think I could do one at a time till they are all replaced. I know they torque different but they have instructions in the package and the lube for the threads.
Thanks
Second thought, what about looseing up all the main caps and just let the crank drop down just a very small tad and that would make it easier to push the seal around the back of the crank,,,,would that work.
And would that be a chance to replace the bolts with ARP studs ?? I would think I could do one at a time till they are all replaced. I know they torque different but they have instructions in the package and the lube for the threads.
Thanks
Second thought, what about looseing up all the main caps and just let the crank drop down just a very small tad and that would make it easier to push the seal around the back of the crank,,,,would that work.
Last edited by Racer11; Jan 30, 2007 at 01:22 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
That sounds pretty basic to do,,,,,what do I torque the cap bolts down to when I tighten it down.
And would that be a chance to replace the bolts with ARP studs ?? I would think I could do one at a time till they are all replaced. I know they torque different but they have instructions in the package and the lube for the threads.
Thanks
Second thought, what about looseing up all the main caps and just let the crank drop down just a very small tad and that would make it easier to push the seal around the back of the crank,,,,would that work.
And would that be a chance to replace the bolts with ARP studs ?? I would think I could do one at a time till they are all replaced. I know they torque different but they have instructions in the package and the lube for the threads.
Thanks
Second thought, what about looseing up all the main caps and just let the crank drop down just a very small tad and that would make it easier to push the seal around the back of the crank,,,,would that work.
I personally wouldn't change all the bolts to studs with the engine in the car and the caps holding up the crank but that's just me. You'd have to start in the middle and work your way out and that could get tricky.
Also, letting the crank fall a bit is a bad idea and waaaay too much trouble for just pushing a rubber seal around the crank. It'll go just work it.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Okay, well, your profile is not filled out and I don't know what year your car is and I don't know if you have an 'L' or an 'X' motor.
If it's an 'L' motor - 75 lbs
If it's an 'X' motor - 95 lbs
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
That was a quick response LOL 
The year is a 76 and the engine is a 350 thats all I know about it,,,wouldnt that be a L-48 I think that is what is on the console plate,,,I could go look if need be,,,its out in the shop back of the house.
The year is a 76 and the engine is a 350 thats all I know about it,,,wouldnt that be a L-48 I think that is what is on the console plate,,,I could go look if need be,,,its out in the shop back of the house.