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Took Drivers side apart tonight

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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Default Took Drivers side apart tonight

Well, finally got around to starting in on the car again tonight. Welded in the #2 mount pocket on the pass side, welded in the repair rail section for the Rocker channel, no problems there.
Then I took the Drivers door off and stripped off the glass pieces for the door sill, lots of rust as I expected, had the same thing on the pass side.
Got a question though, Is there supposed to be a bracket here?

was a lot of rust and a bit of metal. As long as I am welding I might as well get it all done.
Door post cleaned up pretty good
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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Yep, the reinforcement bracket is missing (rusted away). Fab a replacement.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 11:33 PM
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Cool, thanks. Got to make 2 of them I recon
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:51 AM
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My 69 had a reinforcement bracket there. But I can’t believe that you didn’t find some remnants of a bracket if there was one there. Maybe some one will chime in with an answer about you’re particular year whether it had one or didn’t. Make sure you have enough room for it in the fiberglass body when you reassemble.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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There is a tiny bit of metal on the door post, thats what got me to wondering. I vacuumed up about 2 lbs of rust from under the sill and off the floor
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Sure would like to see some more pictures of how your doing this. Will be at that point with my 81 in a couple of months.
thanks
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe45
Sure would like to see some more pictures of how your doing this. Will be at that point with my 81 in a couple of months.
thanks
Joe, You can do a serch on Photobucket with *MBandet*, there you will see my pics of my pillar posts and rocker chanel repairs. I am in the rebuild process as we speak and will be postin more photos next week. If your going in as deep as I did, make sure you take all sorts of measurements, because the body becomes a ragdoll. All in all I'm welding all the repair parts and its looking good and solid. All the parts were made up by me using the same gauge (12) steel, $50 at the local steel supplier. The rockers I had to have bent up at my buddies shop.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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I can post more pics as I go, thats the plan anyway. I bought Rocker Channel repair sections from Caladonia. They go in under the existing channels (or whats left of them) and get spot welded in. I liked this option because you don't lose your body integrity or setup. I have cleaned everything up, sand blasted and phosphor etched the metal and welded n patches in the #2 mount pockets. Tomorrow night I paint the drivers side rocker and weld in the new part and this part is done. I'll do a bunch of pics as I do that one.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 05:45 AM
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Thanks Gents! Photos are a big help. I looked in the photobucket as provided. Geeze.. I thought splicing my 2 frame 1/2's together was a job! Thats almost done, then I tackle the rockers. Thanks again.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 08:19 PM
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Thinking ahead, and absorbing the advice of possibly losing body integrity while trying to replace rocker channels, if I cross braced the door areas with tubing and tack welded into place prior to removal, would I be OK to remove entirely the original channels without worrying about shift in dimensions?
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe45
Thinking ahead, and absorbing the advice of possibly losing body integrity while trying to replace rocker channels, if I cross braced the door areas with tubing and tack welded into place prior to removal, would I be OK to remove entirely the original channels without worrying about shift in dimensions?
I think it would be an excellent idea, although I would have to think on how it could be done. My big problem is not getting everything straight, thats the easy part,,lol it gets difficult is my windsheild frame is so rotted out the *T* top center post is no longer capable of supporting the rear clip,,,, the rear falls downward, because the rear pillar posts are removed, (no support) What I am doing to overcome this is first make sure the frame is level in all directions, I shimmed and leveled the #4mounts (bolted in place), I shimmed and leveled the #1mounts, also bolted in place. The fun part biggins, I installed the doors and adjusted them to were I wanted, adjusted the hight of the rear clip to accomodate the doors and have a nice even gap all round. From there I welded the rear pillar post in place. Its a lot of checking and double checking, with a lot of measuring. One thing is for sure,, the car is going to be straighter than when it came of the line.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 06:43 AM
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I was thinking of taking angle iron and drilling holes in them (2 pcs.) to bolt to the door hinge mounts on the pillar.Doing both door areas this way. Then making a tab for the back with a hole to bolt it into the lock pin hole in the back pillar. Basically from front to back would look like a wishbone type brace. Then from door to door weld a horizontal tube to both wishbones. Because my body jig is made of 2x2 steel tubing I would drop vertical legs from the cross tube down to the body jig rails and weld it up. Going to have to mock it up in a month or so and see how it goes. Thanks for sharing your advice.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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I think you may have good solution,, and it seems to be quite simple too. This would have help me a great deal in saving time and headaches lolol. I would like to see pics of it when you do it,,,, good luck,
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