I would get the machine shop to go thru the block and look at everythng I can't believe an expensive aluminum block would be shipped in that condition

 

Thanks Tom
I think they let the new guy work on my block


That's very good advise. I'll have to see what this shop is capable of checking. Thank you MotorHead

 

New cam bearings should not have to be honed after installation.

I was in business building engines for over 35 years and never had to hone cam bearings.

If they didn't fit right, they came back out and a new set was installed.

 

Here is the rear bearing I supplied to the "super genius" I mistakenly used 1.5 years ago. I know I have to get over this!!! LOL

When I picked up the block he told me worked very hard on it and it was ready to go back together. The rear cam plug was already installed and sealed up. We couldn't get the cam in. The burr was .030" He hammered it in, since he wasn't building the block didn't care enough to correct it.

 

I've been planning on getting one of their AL blocks when I build up my dream motor. Now I'm kinda concerned. I saw that they gave you replacments but did they have an explanation for the problem and how did they handle it (other then just replacing them and labor, customer service wise)? Thanks
Good luck with it!!!

 

I had to call Tom in customer service to get anything moving. They did not try and wiggle out of anything. After I sent Tom pictures, I received a call from sales guy indicating they thought having a local machine shop replace the bearings was the most practical. As far as what they attributed the scratches to, they simply said the guy used the wrong sand paper. I'm supposed to receive new set of cam bearings FedEx 2nd day and take it to a shop to have them installed, pay the bill and send bill to them for reimbursement. I think I'll just knock out #1 and install it myself and be done with it. The rest are not bad enough to have to deal with leaving block at a shop some 50 miles away and hope they do it right. The cam does fit fine and turns freely, it's just that #1 bearing that I can't stand to think of using. If all the bearings looked like #1, I'd have serious concerns about the cam tunnel but the cam slid in as one would expect with no binding and any point. I think the goober that installed the bearings got impatient and perhaps bugered up the last bearing to the point Scotchbrite was not enough and it was probably approaching happy hour. I feel like they should never have sent it out but they did seem quite willing to make it right. The thing that aggrivates me though is I told the sales guy when I placed the order that I read a post on a forum where someone had to return a block because of scratched cam bearings and I indicated I didn't want to have to deal with doing the same. I got the feeling he was on the other end of the line going Good luck on your purchase, I hope you have better luck as a result of my bad luck. Maybe they'll start checking them better.
Jim

 

It's never been truer...if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself. The last machine shop I used didn't lap the valves on the heads and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't fire. No compression!!

Jim

 

From what I see, all the bearings look a bit rough. I would seriously think about changing all of them. If the clearance on the cam-to-bearing is much bigger than what GM recommends, you run a good chance of having oil pressure problems. I had a new cam that the journals had a bit of surface rust, cleaned them up with some really fine sandpaper and then had oil pressure problems. All the bearings were new. Just something to think about.

 

 

Thanks Jim for the details, it puts my mind a little more at ease. It's too bad you had to go thru it though They should have caught it befor shipping

 

Just when I had myself talked into feeling better
Back to the drawing board!

 

I'm gonna say this one more time and then shut up, because it appears nobody is listening anyways.

If cam bearings are the correct part and are installed correctly, you should not have to grind, chisel, cut, sand, scotchbrite or alter them in any way for the cam to go in and spin freely.

This is pure Bubba.

I have no clue where all of this is coming from.

I owned and operated my own repair and MACHINE SHOP and I personally assembled the engines.

I never had to Bubba up cam bearings if they were installed correctly in the first place.

If the block was crooked, then that had to be addressed before the cam bearings were installed.

I did find instances where a block called for slightly smaller diameter bearings from front to back, and somebody installed them in the wrong order, so the cam would not go in... but never had to grind on new cam bearings.

I'm at a loss for words here.

 

I'm listening Tom . I think it's just that people not as good/experienced as you installing these may end up with leading edges of the bearings being goobered up a bit. As you pointed out in post #19, the tool type used has a lot to do with it. As you also pointed out, done right, the bearing needs no attention. I certaining appreciate your input and opinion as it holds a lot of weight based on your experience. How soon can you come over and these in for me?

Jim

 

I have the iron Motown. Tomorrow is motor/tranny pulling day and my 434 which was just redone is going back in.

My first one was a TQ monster with Dart 227 cc heads and 242/248 110 lsa .620/.620 team G single plane.

What do you have planned?

 

Hey NY.... NJ.... NC...

FL is the next stop.

 

I've read many of your posts...trying to absorb the knowledge. Saw your crank, read you had friend at World's machine shop. I respect ya. I know my choices are more conservative than yours on heads and exhaust in particular.

I started out thinking 427...ended up 406. Could have just as easily done the 412 but decided to leave a little in the sleeves for the next build/overhaul. R/L ratio, custom pistons/rods, wanting std. deck height, low maintenance street use left practical choice of 406/412. Waiting on balanced crank assy. & heads to arrive. I have the block, cam, lifters.

Alum. Motown Lite Block 400 mains, 4.125 bore, 9.015 DH & F'd up cam bushings
AFR Street 195's 75cc chambers
Callies Magnum Crank 3.800 stroke, 350 rods, 400 mains
Oliver Billet Stroker Clearanced Rods 6"
Diamond Forged -36cc Pistons
Total Seal Gapless Top Rings for NOS/Blower Applications
Crower Hyd. Roller @ 0.050" I 217*/0.347 E 226*/0.363 114* LSA
Comp Pro Magnum 1.6:1 Rockers I/E
Crower Roller Lifters (Retro)
B&M 144cu in blower/5 psi
Wet Nitrous (plate)
900 CFM Holley EFI
Okay...hang on now gkull (Hooker Block Huggers w/sidepipes)
7.9:1 SCR 6.30 DCR (9.84 DCR w/5 psi boost/no NOS)

Need > $1000+ in tools to blueprint this thing
Need > more knowledge
Have > empty wallet, ulcer & bad attitude

Wish me luck! I'm going to need it

Jim