Draining the block.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I like getting under my car and that won't change...it's the mess I'm focusing on, and the ease of draining the fluids.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,434
Likes: 0
St. Jude Donor '07
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
Likes: 878
From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
I think a good "back flush" will remove more harmfull
debri than a petcock.
The petcocks I have on my boat have "small" openings.
A tee in the heater hose is my answer.
What was the question?
debri than a petcock.
The petcocks I have on my boat have "small" openings.
A tee in the heater hose is my answer.
What was the question?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Since I actually did the "operation" (albeit on a Ford), I can add some info here...
If you're going to race... this is probably a risky proposition. You don't want that "potential" to rear it's ugly head. But for cruisers and trailer queens... no big deal.
I have done this, on other vehicles and machinery in the past. The problems are with your piping connecting the sump (or whatever) to the remote valve:
a) if you run hard pipe, the resonant vibration will crack it eventually, and lots of mounting brackets won't cure it.
===> If the tubes are short enough and rigid enough, this will not be a problem. My Ford 390 was bored 60, re-cammed, and I had the 62 T'Bird BB TriPower on it.... positraction 9" diff... it was a fun car and in spite of its weight, moved pretty good... I beat on it regularly.
I had no problems with the fittings & tubes. You just have to engineer it properly. The pipe connection (threads) at the block are the main issue. You have to deal with that with some degree of intelligence.
b) with rubber tubing, the rubber degrades or is damaged by heat, chafing, other chemicals, or can come loose and be torn.
===> Don't use rubber.... use metal.
c) they are both subject to being snagged or inadvertantly damaged in the course of other work or daily hazards.
===> Yes... this was one of the issues I had. Be careful working around it, or expect to repair it on the fly.
d) the small diameter of the tubing is easily plugged by gunk which settles to the bottom of your sump, plugging the line.
===> Yes... I solved this simply by blowing compressed air backwards through the petcock when open.
e) if you reduce the need to get under the car periodically, you reduce the frequency of general inspection for other potential problems.
===> It doesn't reduce the need to get under the car... it only aids in draining the block below head level so you can work on the upper end with little or no water intrusion. That's why I did it originally.
I do have draincocks on my block, and they come in handy when I need them, which is not very often. I will put a drain plug on my differential when I rebuild it. But anymore, I prefer the PIA of getting under the car when doing this kind of stuff so I can periodically inspect everything
===> Typical Gear Head
.....In my opinion, while it sounds like a good idea, adding things like this only adds more areas of potential trouble.
===> Potential... agreed. In reality, that wasn't my experience.... my block drains worked great and saved me a lot of cleanup time & a lot of mess.
John
a) if you run hard pipe, the resonant vibration will crack it eventually, and lots of mounting brackets won't cure it.
===> If the tubes are short enough and rigid enough, this will not be a problem. My Ford 390 was bored 60, re-cammed, and I had the 62 T'Bird BB TriPower on it.... positraction 9" diff... it was a fun car and in spite of its weight, moved pretty good... I beat on it regularly.
I had no problems with the fittings & tubes. You just have to engineer it properly. The pipe connection (threads) at the block are the main issue. You have to deal with that with some degree of intelligence.
b) with rubber tubing, the rubber degrades or is damaged by heat, chafing, other chemicals, or can come loose and be torn.
===> Don't use rubber.... use metal.
c) they are both subject to being snagged or inadvertantly damaged in the course of other work or daily hazards.
===> Yes... this was one of the issues I had. Be careful working around it, or expect to repair it on the fly.
d) the small diameter of the tubing is easily plugged by gunk which settles to the bottom of your sump, plugging the line.
===> Yes... I solved this simply by blowing compressed air backwards through the petcock when open.
e) if you reduce the need to get under the car periodically, you reduce the frequency of general inspection for other potential problems.
===> It doesn't reduce the need to get under the car... it only aids in draining the block below head level so you can work on the upper end with little or no water intrusion. That's why I did it originally.
I do have draincocks on my block, and they come in handy when I need them, which is not very often. I will put a drain plug on my differential when I rebuild it. But anymore, I prefer the PIA of getting under the car when doing this kind of stuff so I can periodically inspect everything
===> Typical Gear Head
.....In my opinion, while it sounds like a good idea, adding things like this only adds more areas of potential trouble.
===> Potential... agreed. In reality, that wasn't my experience.... my block drains worked great and saved me a lot of cleanup time & a lot of mess.
John
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Hey Matt,
Use the petcocks and just put a piece of tubing on them when you open them right into your catch can...no splash!!!
Add ALITTLE air pressure through a schrader valve at the spot where you blocked off the heater core and blow that bad boy out gently!!!
Use the petcocks and just put a piece of tubing on them when you open them right into your catch can...no splash!!!
Add ALITTLE air pressure through a schrader valve at the spot where you blocked off the heater core and blow that bad boy out gently!!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Yep that sounds like a good way to do it. Spot on chap.
