Draining the block.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Draining the block.
With all the threads popping up about coolant types and flushing procedures...I began putting some thought into making it easy to flush and fill every few years. Once I put the new motor in I don't plan to pull it and anything I can do now to make future maintenance easier is best done now.
Draining the radiator is easy, and I won't be using the heater core...so I'm gonna focus on draining the block.
This is all in regard to the two block plugs that drain the water jacket I was thinking of pulling the plugs, and making a pair of really simple hard lines and fittings that fit into the threaded bores in the block. Routing both hard lines to either the front under the radiator, or off to the sides.
Either way I want to be able to get to them easily with the car on the ground. On the ends of the hard lines...some kind of valve or petcock similar to how you drain an air compressor tank.
This way I can drain the block easily, drain the radiator easily, and flush easily.
Any thoughts?
Draining the radiator is easy, and I won't be using the heater core...so I'm gonna focus on draining the block.
This is all in regard to the two block plugs that drain the water jacket I was thinking of pulling the plugs, and making a pair of really simple hard lines and fittings that fit into the threaded bores in the block. Routing both hard lines to either the front under the radiator, or off to the sides.
Either way I want to be able to get to them easily with the car on the ground. On the ends of the hard lines...some kind of valve or petcock similar to how you drain an air compressor tank.
This way I can drain the block easily, drain the radiator easily, and flush easily.
Any thoughts?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
I did exactly that to a BB Ford in my old NY State Police cruiser 390.
It worked, but they got in the way now & again.
I put brass 90 street elbows in the block and ran pipe/tube off that down to pet-***** just above the oil pan rail... one on each side of the block.
It worked, but they got in the way now & again.
I put brass 90 street elbows in the block and ran pipe/tube off that down to pet-***** just above the oil pan rail... one on each side of the block.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Did they drain okay? Gravity still was able to do it's job and get the fluid out?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Just IMO, I'd be afraid they would get hit and damaged by a rock or other road debris draining your coolant when you least expect it (like your morning commute or worse some back road in the middle of BFE). They may be there forever like other lines on the car and never get hit by anything (auto tranny lines come to mind here), but it could very well happen all the same.
Also now you have 2 more connections that could possibaly leak.
Will
Also now you have 2 more connections that could possibaly leak.
Will
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
With all the threads popping up about coolant types and flushing procedures...I began putting some thought into making it easy to flush and fill every few years. Once I put the new motor in I don't plan to pull it and anything I can do now to make future maintenance easier is best done now.
Draining the radiator is easy, and I won't be using the heater core...so I'm gonna focus on draining the block.
This way I can drain the block easily, drain the radiator easily, and flush easily.
Any thoughts?
Draining the radiator is easy, and I won't be using the heater core...so I'm gonna focus on draining the block.
This way I can drain the block easily, drain the radiator easily, and flush easily.
Any thoughts?
I realize your need to type but what could be easier than a petcock on both sides of the block? I drain the water out of my car every year and find pulling the the pipe plugs a "piece of cake"...and what is your adversion to doing work UNDER THE CAR?.....you will (or should be) draining your oil and (hopefully) changing your oil filter not to mention greasing your steering more often than you will change your antifreeze.....from underneath.
...redvetracr
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Sure I have a thought!!
I realize your need to type but what could be easier than a petcock on both sides of the block? I drain the water out of my car every year and find pulling the the pipe plugs a "piece of cake"...and what is your adversion to doing work UNDER THE CAR?.....you will (or should be) draining your oil and (hopefully) changing your oil filter not to mention greasing your steering more often than you will change your antifreeze.....from underneath.
...redvetracr
I realize your need to type but what could be easier than a petcock on both sides of the block? I drain the water out of my car every year and find pulling the the pipe plugs a "piece of cake"...and what is your adversion to doing work UNDER THE CAR?.....you will (or should be) draining your oil and (hopefully) changing your oil filter not to mention greasing your steering more often than you will change your antifreeze.....from underneath.
...redvetracr
Yep I do all that, I just like making some of those things easier.
You were the sunny kid in class weren't you...
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Le Mans Master
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Loveland Colo
While your at it, do the same for your oil sump, trans, differential, gas tank, float bowls, master cylinder, PS pump and vacuum reservoir. Draining and replacing the vacuum every few thousand miles is one of the most overlooked maintenence items on a 'Vette.
Le Mans Master
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I'm actually gonna install manual valves for the oil pan, trans pan, and install a drain plug in the diff. I'm surprised you didn't say anything about blinker fluid.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I kind of like the idea of the petcocks. At least that way I might have a chance of not making such a big mess when I do my coolant changes. Pretty cool idea, never thought of it before.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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Some old English cars had them. They either leak, freeze shut, or clog up with sediment. Austin-Healey and Jag to name a couple.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Well while most of those guys were being sarcastic...it's very easy to make a mess when dealing with any of your car's fluids. Adding drains and tubes will aid in a speedy and clean drain and refill. Adding valves for engine coolant means it will no longer trail down the side of the block, down the oil pan, off of the A-arms...and onto the floor under the radiator. If falls where you want it...in the drain pan.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 763
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From: Loveland Colo
I have done this, on other vehicles and machinery in the past. The problems are with your piping connecting the sump (or whatever) to the remote valve:
a) if you run hard pipe, the resonant vibration will crack it eventually, and lots of mounting brackets won't cure it.
b) with rubber tubing, the rubber degrades or is damaged by heat, chafing, other chemicals, or can come loose and be torn.
c) they are both subject to being snagged or inadvertantly damaged in the course of other work or daily hazards.
d) the small diameter of the tubing is easily plugged by gunk which settles to the bottom of your sump, plugging the line.
e) if you reduce the need to get under the car periodically, you reduce the frequency of general inspection for other potential problems.
I do have draincocks on my block, and they come in handy when I need them, which is not very often. I will put a drain plug on my differential when I rebuild it. But anymore, I prefer the PIA of getting under the car when doing this kind of stuff so I can periodically inspect everything.....In my opinion, while it sounds like a good idea, adding things like this only adds more areas of potential trouble.
John
a) if you run hard pipe, the resonant vibration will crack it eventually, and lots of mounting brackets won't cure it.
b) with rubber tubing, the rubber degrades or is damaged by heat, chafing, other chemicals, or can come loose and be torn.
c) they are both subject to being snagged or inadvertantly damaged in the course of other work or daily hazards.
d) the small diameter of the tubing is easily plugged by gunk which settles to the bottom of your sump, plugging the line.
e) if you reduce the need to get under the car periodically, you reduce the frequency of general inspection for other potential problems.
I do have draincocks on my block, and they come in handy when I need them, which is not very often. I will put a drain plug on my differential when I rebuild it. But anymore, I prefer the PIA of getting under the car when doing this kind of stuff so I can periodically inspect everything.....In my opinion, while it sounds like a good idea, adding things like this only adds more areas of potential trouble.
John