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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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Default 350/350 Timing

I just purchased a 69, 350/350 manual. Timing is set to 4 degress BTDC. Obviously gasoline octanes are not what they were in 69. The engine tends to "run" after the ignition is turned off. Dwel is at 31degrees with a stock distributer. Any suggestions as to how I should modify the timing for performance w/o and have the engine shut down after I turn it off?
Thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:23 AM
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Is the engine pinging under heavy acceleration? How high is your idle? The most frequent cause of run on is an idle that is set too high. Just thinking out loud. Do you have the correct vacuum advance can in the car?
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Default 350/350 Timing

It is not pinking. The idle is set to 1000 rpm due to A/C. When A/s is on, the idel drops to about 800 rpm.
Bob
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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Did you read the Timing thread in the Sticky section right above? It has a lot of useful info.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by benito
It is not pinking. The idle is set to 1000 rpm due to A/C. When A/s is on, the idel drops to about 800 rpm.
Bob
Your idle is too high. This was a common problem that caused a run on condition in the earlier cars. It was solved by the use of an Idle Stop Solenoid in later years. My 74 had one until I changed carbs. The solenoid is engaged when the ignition is turned on and idle is set by turning the stop on the solenoid. When the engine is shut down the solenoid disengaged causing the carb to shut completely and therefore preventing run on. If you have a q-jet you can get the bracket and solenoid aftermarket. If you don't have a q-jet you can build a bracket and mount the solenoid so it works the same way. Look at my sig pic to see an example. The solenoid in the picture is mounted to a bracket that I fabricated for my Edelbrock carb. Good luck.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by benito
It is not pinking. The idle is set to 1000 rpm due to A/C. When A/s is on, the idel drops to about 800 rpm.
Bob
I agree with the other poster and his advice. 1000 RPM's will definitely cause the run on.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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Thanks. I'll go with the solenoid!!!
Great Help.
Bob
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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You're not running nearly enough timing. Set it up for 36 degrees total and disregard initial.

Timing does not affect run-on after shut-down. Run-on is affected by idle speed. Drop idle speed to 650 and run-on will stop.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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I just have a basic knowlede of what you mean by total timing. My advance is vacuum operated. I set the 4 deg. BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Are you saying that I should be looking at 36 beg BTDC w/ the vacuum connected? And if so, I what engine rpm?
Sorry if the question is dumb.
Thanks.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Your advance is centrifugal with a vacuum advance assist. You need 36 degrees total timing with vacuum advance disconnected and the centrifugal advance pegged out - usually about 3500 rpm-or-so. If you don't have a copy of my timing paper, let me know so I can send you one.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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I'd really like to read your timing paper.
Bob
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
Your advance is centrifugal with a vacuum advance assist. You need 36 degrees total timing with vacuum advance disconnected and the centrifugal advance pegged out - usually about 3500 rpm-or-so. If you don't have a copy of my timing paper, let me know so I can send you one.

just what I was going to recommend.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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I got the timing paper. I know what I'll be doing this weekend.
Thanks for all the help.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vettfixr
Your idle is too high. This was a common problem that caused a run on condition in the earlier cars. It was solved by the use of an Idle Stop Solenoid in later years. My 74 had one until I changed carbs. The solenoid is engaged when the ignition is turned on and idle is set by turning the stop on the solenoid. When the engine is shut down the solenoid disengaged causing the carb to shut completely and therefore preventing run on. If you have a q-jet you can get the bracket and solenoid aftermarket. If you don't have a q-jet you can build a bracket and mount the solenoid so it works the same way. Look at my sig pic to see an example. The solenoid in the picture is mounted to a bracket that I fabricated for my Edelbrock carb. Good luck.
Hmmm thats good info. I always thought that solinoid was intended to kick up the idle speed when the AC was turned on..LOL My solinoid clicks in and out some but does not even touch the lever on the carb. So if you use the solinoid to adjust idle speed, then I assume you back the idle speed screw on the carb all the way out so it doesn't contact the lever letting the throttles close all the way off. That sound right?

I don't have a run on problem on my low compression, wore out stocker but I do like having everything work as it should.

Did those solinoids come on BBs also? we do have a run on problem with our 69' 427, but I don't see a solinoid or even the wires for it.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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I plan on using the tech sheet also to set up to 36 degrees total. But
just curious, what is the idle timing after setting up for the total timing.between 8 and 10 degrees ?
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Georgia1974
I plan on using the tech sheet also to set up to 36 degrees total. But
just curious, what is the idle timing after setting up for the total timing.between 8 and 10 degrees ?
Originally Posted by lars
You're not running nearly enough timing. Set it up for 36 degrees total and disregard initial.

Timing does not affect run-on after shut-down. Run-on is affected by idle speed. Drop idle speed to 650 and run-on will stop.
FYI ide timing will probably be more than this but disregard.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Hmmm thats good info. I always thought that solinoid was intended to kick up the idle speed when the AC was turned on..LOL My solinoid clicks in and out some but does not even touch the lever on the carb. So if you use the solinoid to adjust idle speed, then I assume you back the idle speed screw on the carb all the way out so it doesn't contact the lever letting the throttles close all the way off. That sound right?

I don't have a run on problem on my low compression, wore out stocker but I do like having everything work as it should.

Did those solinoids come on BBs also? we do have a run on problem with our 69' 427, but I don't see a solinoid or even the wires for it.
I believe you are correct. I don't remember ever seeing anything else.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Hmmm thats good info. I always thought that solinoid was intended to kick up the idle speed when the AC was turned on..LOL My solinoid clicks in and out some but does not even touch the lever on the carb. So if you use the solinoid to adjust idle speed, then I assume you back the idle speed screw on the carb all the way out so it doesn't contact the lever letting the throttles close all the way off. That sound right?

I don't have a run on problem on my low compression, wore out stocker but I do like having everything work as it should.

Did those solinoids come on BBs also? we do have a run on problem with our 69' 427, but I don't see a solinoid or even the wires for it.
Yes, you drop the idle screw back until it doesn't touch the throttle bracket on the carb. Then turn the idle stop until you get the idle you want. I'm not sure if Big Blocks came with it but its easy enough to set up. Just get the q-jet bracket and solenoid and wire it up to an ignition hot on the fuse block. When you turn on the key it'll kick in and when you shut it off it'll kick out. If you don't have an idle problem you can hook the solenoid up to the compressor clutch so it holds a higher idle when you turn on the AC. That's how I have mine set up.
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