Water Loss
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 43
From: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Army
Water Loss
Driver rea side of block above the oil filter close to a freeze plug I am losing water. A drip here and there and wets the area. I suspect the freeze plug. No water in oil, can this water be coming from the head? If not I would have to be the freeze plug right?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
It is possible for a head gasket to leak water and not mix it with oil, so don't rule that out yet.
Check an maybe replace the freeze plug first as they are cheap and easy to do.
If that doesn't solve it, it's probably a head gasket.
Check an maybe replace the freeze plug first as they are cheap and easy to do.
If that doesn't solve it, it's probably a head gasket.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 43
From: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Army
What is the easiest way to remove a freeze plug and reinsert the new one? I ask because there is always an easy and hard way to do things. I am tired of doing it the hard way.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Well, a freeze plug is just a disc that's a little to big for the hole. Knowing that, I just tap on one side of the plug with a flat head screw driver and a small hammer. It should spin in the bore like a revolving door. Once you have it spun 90 degrees, just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out.
For installing, find a socket that fits snug INSIDE the cup of the plug. Make sure the bore is clean and dry, and place the plug up and into the bore. You'll place the socket into the plug, and while holding with your thumb and fore finger, tap the plug evenly into the bore.
Be careful you don't squish your thumb, and make the hits as solid and even as you can. You will counter sink it so you have about 1/16" of a lip under the block surface.
For installing, find a socket that fits snug INSIDE the cup of the plug. Make sure the bore is clean and dry, and place the plug up and into the bore. You'll place the socket into the plug, and while holding with your thumb and fore finger, tap the plug evenly into the bore.
Be careful you don't squish your thumb, and make the hits as solid and even as you can. You will counter sink it so you have about 1/16" of a lip under the block surface.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 43
From: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Army
Well, a freeze plug is just a disc that's a little to big for the hole. Knowing that, I just tap on one side of the plug with a flat head screw driver and a small hammer. It should spin in the bore like a revolving door. Once you have it spun 90 degrees, just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out.
For installing, find a socket that fits snug INSIDE the cup of the plug. Make sure the bore is clean and dry, and place the plug up and into the bore. You'll place the socket into the plug, and while holding with your thumb and fore finger, tap the plug evenly into the bore.
Be careful you don't squish your thumb, and make the hits as solid and even as you can. You will counter sink it so you have about 1/16" of a lip under the block surface.
For installing, find a socket that fits snug INSIDE the cup of the plug. Make sure the bore is clean and dry, and place the plug up and into the bore. You'll place the socket into the plug, and while holding with your thumb and fore finger, tap the plug evenly into the bore.
Be careful you don't squish your thumb, and make the hits as solid and even as you can. You will counter sink it so you have about 1/16" of a lip under the block surface.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Small blocks can have the lower row of head bolts seeping. If there is not enough sealant on those short bolts coolant can seep under the bolt head and show up on the ground/side of the block. I've seen heads crack around the bolts for improper torque too. The fix? Pop the head, clean the bolts really good, clean the block and head, new head gasket.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs CO
Although it will cost you 50 bucks, you can order a dye kit from summit that will help diagnose all leaks (oil, coolant, etc). Check inject the dye, warm up the car, put the UV light on it and it should show you exactly where it is leaking. Comes in handy as you chase down leaks in vehicles.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 43
From: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Army
I have been chasing this lousy leak for a couple of months now. I think I will get the dye and give it a try. Every time I look at it the leak seems to come from the sky without a definitive origin. At least this should tell me whether it is a head or freeze plug.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs CO
Good Luck. The dye worked great for me when I was chasing a leak in and around the the cooler lines on my tahoe. Local dealership wanted $500 bucks to diagnose and replace the lines. Did it for less than $100(cost of lines and dye kit). Summit part number TRL-TP-1121.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
When I was having water leaks I found some drips around the oil filter and that area... I found that the only leak I had was the water pump gasket going bad. I though it was from weep hole at first......
This small leak from the gasket ran down the block making it had to trace, but it would drip down the front of the block, down the rail of the pan and drip off the back of the pan... I also found drips on the fuel pump, timing cover, etc.
Check to see if there drips in other spots. AND very very closly look at the front of the block where the pump meets the block and see if there is any moister there.