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I read through the threads about putting a Ford T-5 in a C3 (very thorough), but I am curious about installing a T56 6 speed. Are the modifications to do this extensive? I have already swapped an LT-1 into my car and I like the way the T-56 feels in the Camaros that I have driven, so this seems to be the logical next step. The 4 speed muncie is killing me on the highway. I ran across several used T56's locally that are in a good price range and complete with the hydraulic clutch and most parts. I am assuming that the tunnel would have to be modified for clearance?? Has anyone done this swap before? Thanks, Jeff
Tunnel modifications, shortened driveshaft, trans crossmember modifications, custom shifter relocation or $$ aftermarket unit, speedometer adapter (also $$) or new speedometer.
You may also need a bellhousing adapter and a new pilot bushing.
I have one in my 71!!
I used a std Camaro unit from an LT1 car and it will bolt to your LT1 or to a small blk chevy. I used the F-body hydraulic clutch set-up.
I modified a bolt in crossmember but it did hang down a little low. So I probably should of modified the tunnel to raise the unit a bit. I am reworking the whole car right now and will probably do that.
I had a new driveshaft made- no big deal a local welding shop made me one for a $100.
Now I am putting in bigger gears since my 3.07 is way too fast. You will never go back to a 4 speed.
If you installed an LT1 you can handle the trans easy.
The biggest problem was the clutch set-up. You may want to look for a non stock unit since the angles aren't perfect for our firewalls. I made an adapter but I am reworking the whole firewall so....
I rushed it and it still worked.
Go for it.
I have the T-56 in my 68. I had no modification to the tunnel other than I trimmed the shifter hole somewhat. It came with the offset shifter to make it work in the stock location but I used a short-throw shifter instead. i also used the hyd clutch setup from McLeod. It worked fine but I used a heim joint welded to my stock rod to allow for adjustment.
The solid crossmember was cut out and I used a heavy walled piece of channel iron with some sections of rubber belting cut to work as shims to get the angle set right. I have pics if needed. Things are cleaned up a lot since these pics. 427Hotrod has a good design for the crossmember where he welded a flange on each end and it is then bolted together sandwiching the ends together. It appears very strong. I may switch to this when I get all the other things buttoned up.
-Patrick