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Water Wetter. This stuff really work?

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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3


It's a patch, not a fix...

There's no such thing as overkill on the cooling system..

Here are a few ways to get enough cooling..

1) Aluminum Radiator
2) high volume water pump
3) high flow thermostat
4) electric fan(s)

Electric fans and high flow water pumps are the most effective way to get enough cooling..
I think a temp of below 190* is too cool on a street car...a Drag car is a different animal, they like things cold...

5)...factory front spoiler AND seals around the radiator...
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:17 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
My point.
My initial point was that it does work but of course the appropriate way to get the coolant temperature down is to fix up the cooling system

On my race car, I need all the cooling that I can get.. I have a electric high flow water pump, aluminum radiator (top of the line Griffin), no thermostat etc. and I also run water with 2 bottles of water wetter and TRIPLE electric fans to cool down the eng....
Works great for me.. If I wouldn't be running 650+ HP on my engine, that setup would cool a mild engine to 120 degrees
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:18 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
I think a temp of below 190* is too cool on a street car...a Drag car is a different animal, they like things cold...

5)...factory front spoiler AND seals around the radiator...
Well, that's why you use a thermostat on a street car to get the desired temperature...
180 degrees should be fine on a street car.. Hotter than that is only recommended due to emission reasons.. Emissions are usually lower if coolent temps are higher!
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hotshot79
Just a reminder, do you have all the seals in place around your radiator shroud, (sides, top ). The more air you can force thru the radiator the better. My 79 cooled down considerably once I sealed it up. good luck.
Yep.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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A big time short track stock car engine builder once told me your not making real power until about 205*...I use a Robertshaw 195* thermostat in my vintage racer, straight water, a Howe aluminum rad, Mackay aluminum pump rebuilt by Howard Stewart (when HS was still there) and a bottle of WP lube, it runs 205*-210*...Water Wetter at $5 a bottle didn`t do a thing, other than lube the pump....maybe "if" someone has a problem it can help but I don`t bother with it.
...redvetracr
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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I hate to change the subject, but......

Early waterpumps consisted of bronze bushings with graphite string packing. They were only lubricated with additives to the cooling system.

With the advent and use of sealed bearings in modern water pumps, just what are you lubricating?
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I hate to change the subject, but......

Early waterpumps consisted of bronze bushings with graphite string packing. They were only lubricated with additives to the cooling system.

With the advent and use of sealed bearings in modern water pumps, just what are you lubricating?

The seal. you need to keep them pliable and the lube between the rubber and shaft keeps the seal from wearing as much.

antifreeze is naturally slipperly but water ain't so when you run pure water, a can of lube helps alot.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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We need an I surrender smilies icon.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
A big time short track stock car engine builder once told me your not making real power until about 205*...I use a Robertshaw 195* thermostat in my vintage racer, straight water, a Howe aluminum rad, Mackay aluminum pump rebuilt by Howard Stewart (when HS was still there) and a bottle of WP lube, it runs 205*-210*...Water Wetter at $5 a bottle didn`t do a thing, other than lube the pump....maybe "if" someone has a problem it can help but I don`t bother with it.
...redvetracr
I don't see how COOLANT temperature will effect performance? I know that you want at least 200 degrees OIL temperature but I don't see how coolant temperature affects performance?

In Drag Racing, you want hot oil temperature and cool water temperature for best performance!
That's achieved by running water pump and fans between rounds (with the engine shut off).
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
We need an I surrender smilies icon.
How about this one?

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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sperkins
How about this one?

Too submissive
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
More snake oil.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #33  
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wait a minute.

It's not snake oil, it's science.

If you decrease the surface tension of water it allows a better thermal interface with metal.

With all the money you guys spend on crap, what's another $20 for a couple bottles of this stuff as insurance?

The reality is very few of these cars are working at their design efficiency because of missing seals, worn fan clutch, grime and scale in the system, bent fins, broken air dams.....yada. We start out at a disadvantage because of the small frontal area.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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I already surrendered.

I have a large frontal area. Why do you suppose they call me big bird?
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Why do you suppose they call me big bird?

doesn't it take a bird about 2 seconds to mate? I was thinking that was it.


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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
wait a minute.

It's not snake oil, it's science.

If you decrease the surface tension of water it allows a better thermal interface with metal.

With all the money you guys spend on crap, what's another $20 for a couple bottles of this stuff as insurance?

The reality is very few of these cars are working at their design efficiency because of missing seals, worn fan clutch, grime and scale in the system, bent fins, broken air dams.....yada. We start out at a disadvantage because of the small frontal area.
I use it in all my vehicles... I'm conviced that it works and it allows me to run pure water due to corrosion inhibitors.. Even if it would NOT lower coolant temperature, I'd still run it as running water instead of water/antifreeze mix will give you lower temps by itself..
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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When your on a roll........... I knew I was asking for it........you blinded me with science........
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #38  
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All right then. My vette will NEVER see freezing temperatures. Should I run straight water with the Water Wetter or 50/50 mix coolant/H2O?
I am worried about temps as I am not running an aluminum radiator. I have approx 10.5:1 comp with aluminum heads.
:
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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If 1 bottle lowers temp by 30* Add 8 bottles. Should run about freezing.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
All right then. My vette will NEVER see freezing temperatures. Should I run straight water with the Water Wetter or 50/50 mix coolant/H2O?
I am worried about temps as I am not running an aluminum radiator. I have approx 10.5:1 comp with aluminum heads.
:
if you won't see freezing temps, use destilled water and water wetter.. That's the way to go!
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