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Wheel stud drilling fixture? replace studs

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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Default Wheel stud drilling fixture? replace studs

I am looking to replace my stock 7/16-20 wheel studs with larger 1/2-20 by 3" wheel studs. To do this I will need to redrill my hubs to fit the 1/2" studs. Does anyone have a fixture or tool that will make this drilling absolutely accurate??
Can anyone post some pictures or dimensions?
Anyone want to lend me the tool and I will pay for shipping + security deposit + 12 pack?
Or can I buy a copy of this tool from anyone?

Here is Norvals description of the tool:
I did them on the car BUT I made a drilling fixture, one that self centered on the original hole, you knocked the old stud out, put the pilot in the hole, slid the fixture over the pilot and clamped it to the wheel. You then took the drill bit and the fixture guided it straight and true for redrilling to the larger knurl size.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Batman did this a few months ago...maybe he'll find this one and post some details. Maybe PM him and see what he thinks.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Default Drill Press

To drill the axles/rotors for 1/2 wheel studs, I just threw the axles up on a drill press table.

The studs had a serrated segment on the shank so make sure that you select a drill that is a little undersized (measure with a dial caliper) so that the serrated section has some metal on the axle to bite into.
The drill will follow the existing hole, so should not be a problem there.

If you are thinking about drilling them free hand, make sure you use a slow turning 1/2" drill with oil or lube and that the drill has a bubble level on the back. Place the axle on some good wood blocks as they will help keep the axle from turning. Level the axle flange. The hole needs to be straight so that the holes line up on your wheels.

Before you install the studs. Get the axle up to the wheel and pull the new studs into contact with the axle with the lug nuts. The lugs will be started straight that way.

Good luck.

Bob
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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here's the old thread with Norvalwilhelm's photos:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2F2+inch+studs

Great idea and a very nice tool
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Batman did this a few months ago...maybe he'll find this one and post some details. Maybe PM him and see what he thinks.
I borrowed one of the Norval-O-Matic drilling jigs from Batsy.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Sweet, thanks guys.

Norval, were you trying to shed some weight by going from 1/2 to 7/16th studs? haha Don't tell Panic that!

Anyone want to let me borrow that jig?
Paging BATSY!!
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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I just installed some ARP studs on my rear spindles with a hand drill. Took 10 minutes and the studs are fine. I would not worry about it too much. Your wheels center on the hubs anyway.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Hotrod406
I just installed some ARP studs on my rear spindles with a hand drill. Took 10 minutes and the studs are fine. I would not worry about it too much. Your wheels center on the hubs anyway.
Depends on your wheels. I went to the bigger studs precisely because my wheels aren't hub-centric.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Hotrod406
I just installed some ARP studs on my rear spindles with a hand drill. Took 10 minutes and the studs are fine. I would not worry about it too much. Your wheels center on the hubs anyway.

It's true that the original hole will center the bit for the boring...but care must be taken not to round it out too much.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
It's true that the original hole will center the bit for the boring...but care must be taken not to round it out too much.
The problem is drilling it at 90 degrees to the surface. It is a tight fit and if you are off even 1 degree the new stud will press in on this off angle. 1 degree at the base can mean alot out 3 inches.
If you are out with even a few of the studs the rotor will no longer slide over the studs without excessively openning up the holes.
No you can not afford to free drill and just hope that you are getting 90 degree holes.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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How about cutting the face off a rear rotor hat. Facing it true and using 2 locating pins to pick up the bolt pattern and using a hardened drill bushing to pop the holes?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
The problem is drilling it at 90 degrees to the surface. It is a tight fit and if you are off even 1 degree the new stud will press in on this off angle. 1 degree at the base can mean alot out 3 inches.
If you are out with even a few of the studs the rotor will no longer slide over the studs without excessively openning up the holes.
No you can not afford to free drill and just hope that you are getting 90 degree holes.
That's true, but I still think you guys are making a lot more work for yourselves for no reason. My rotors fit fine and the wheels did too. I don't want to sound like some backwoods moron, but the easy way worked for me this time.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Im just going to use ralley wheels. They should be fine with a handrill right?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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now the truth comes out.

This ain't so easy. If things aren't exactly on the money you're creating more problems than you're solving.

This is why i have not gone to 1/2" studs
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
It's true that the original hole will center the bit for the boring...but care must be taken not to round it out too much.
yea, the last thing you want for a lug stud would be a ROUND HOLE.....
...redvetracr
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
now the truth comes out.

This ain't so easy. If things aren't exactly on the money you're creating more problems than you're solving.

This is why i have not gone to 1/2" studs
Quite easy with the Norval-O-Matic.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
Im just going to use ralley wheels. They should be fine with a handrill right?
If you go to slide a rotor on over crooked studs it will not go. If your mags have the shanks on the lug nuts they will not go. Everything must be striaght. Hand drilling without a guide is a crap shoot and all of us have precision drilled rotors. They will not tolerate out of aligned studs.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Quite easy with the Norval-O-Matic.

Didn't you have some drill bit problems? I remember you over here sharpening all your bits. How many did you use to finish?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Didn't you have some drill bit problems? I remember you over here sharpening all your bits. How many did you use to finish?
Good question DB.
Once you have the ability to precision drill your hubs, what the best 1/2" drill bit to use? what kind of lubricating oil works best and won't affect the PB or brakes if some drips on?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 08:06 PM
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I've successfully done the crap shoot on my front hubs.... ... I drilled 15/32", that's 11.90mm for metric M12 studs.
When I pulled the new studs in place I used a thick parallel washer, I am convinced that I pulled the studs 90 degrees to the mounting surface. It was a nice tight fit and it took a little to pull the knurl into the hole.

Still.... I prefer to use a guide like Norval's when I drill the rear hubs - next time I might not be that lucky
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