406 teardown...
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
You want to run the "H" bearings Jim mentioned.
If anybody was a candidate for block oil restricted top end it would be you!
keep that 10W-40 purple on the rods and mains. It also returns it to the pan faster. Most oil resticors come with .060 flow holes. Drill them out to .080 to increase the flow to the top end somewhat.
If anybody was a candidate for block oil restricted top end it would be you!
keep that 10W-40 purple on the rods and mains. It also returns it to the pan faster. Most oil resticors come with .060 flow holes. Drill them out to .080 to increase the flow to the top end somewhat.
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
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From: WI
Oliver,
Oil restrictors reduce the flow of oil to the top end, with a roller setup you don`t need as much oil flow as you do with solid lifters and standard rockers. A dry sump system consists of an external pump with multiple stages 3, 4, 5 and 6 stage pumps are available (I run a 4 stage) one pressure stage and the rest scavenge stages sucking oil out of the pan and usually one stage sucking out of the valley, you also have a shorter oil pan (NO pump/pickup in the pan) meaning you can (if you desire) move the motor down....the term "dry sump" also means you have an external oil tank (very little oil in the pan), in your case you could probably get away with a two gallon tank mounted in front of the motor reducing the need for long oil lines (I have a 4 gallon tank mounted behind where the pass seat would be and spend a small fortune on Aeroquip) you also generally run the tank at 2/3 of capacity......you also need a crank drive system for the pump a remote filter and another screen filter.....there is also free hp in the design of a dry sump pan by reducing the parasitic drag the oil has on the crank..............redvetracr
Oil restrictors reduce the flow of oil to the top end, with a roller setup you don`t need as much oil flow as you do with solid lifters and standard rockers. A dry sump system consists of an external pump with multiple stages 3, 4, 5 and 6 stage pumps are available (I run a 4 stage) one pressure stage and the rest scavenge stages sucking oil out of the pan and usually one stage sucking out of the valley, you also have a shorter oil pan (NO pump/pickup in the pan) meaning you can (if you desire) move the motor down....the term "dry sump" also means you have an external oil tank (very little oil in the pan), in your case you could probably get away with a two gallon tank mounted in front of the motor reducing the need for long oil lines (I have a 4 gallon tank mounted behind where the pass seat would be and spend a small fortune on Aeroquip) you also generally run the tank at 2/3 of capacity......you also need a crank drive system for the pump a remote filter and another screen filter.....there is also free hp in the design of a dry sump pan by reducing the parasitic drag the oil has on the crank..............redvetracr
Last edited by redvetracr; Feb 23, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
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typical block without an oil restrictor is unimpeaded flow to the top end. I'm just guessing .250 diameter block oil galley
Oil restrictor installed with a .060 flow hole VS no restrictor significantly reduces the amount of oil to the top end. In fact I feel like it is actually to much restriction. That is why I suggested drilling it out to .080
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
You are not understanding the oil restrictor.
typical block without an oil restrictor is unimpeaded flow to the top end. I'm just guessing .250 diameter block oil galley
Oil restrictor installed with a .060 flow hole VS no restrictor significantly reduces the amount of oil to the top end. In fact I feel like it is actually to much restriction. That is why I suggested drilling it out to .080
typical block without an oil restrictor is unimpeaded flow to the top end. I'm just guessing .250 diameter block oil galley
Oil restrictor installed with a .060 flow hole VS no restrictor significantly reduces the amount of oil to the top end. In fact I feel like it is actually to much restriction. That is why I suggested drilling it out to .080
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From: Reno Nevada
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MOR-22010 $8.88
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Oil Restrictor Kits
Orifice Size: .0625 in.
Thread Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Oil Restrictors, .0625 in. Orifice Diameter, Chevy, Big Block/Small Block, Pair
Check to make sure this part fits your application
Reduce oil flow for more power.
When roller rocker arms are installed, along with a mechanical lifter cam, the amount of oil flow required to the valvetrain is greatly reduced. Installing a Moroso oil restrictor kit will limit this unnecessary oil flow. These kits reduce the power-robbing windage created from the excess oil draining past the rotating assembly and keeps the oil flowing where it is needed most, the rod and main bearings.
See the small side hole - I drill that out larger. the typical small block has only the threaded allen plug. the restrictor impeads the flow through
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Oil Restrictor Kits
Orifice Size: .0625 in.
Thread Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Oil Restrictors, .0625 in. Orifice Diameter, Chevy, Big Block/Small Block, Pair
Check to make sure this part fits your application
Reduce oil flow for more power.
When roller rocker arms are installed, along with a mechanical lifter cam, the amount of oil flow required to the valvetrain is greatly reduced. Installing a Moroso oil restrictor kit will limit this unnecessary oil flow. These kits reduce the power-robbing windage created from the excess oil draining past the rotating assembly and keeps the oil flowing where it is needed most, the rod and main bearings.
See the small side hole - I drill that out larger. the typical small block has only the threaded allen plug. the restrictor impeads the flow through
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
MOR-22010 $8.88
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Oil Restrictor Kits
Orifice Size: .0625 in.
Thread Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Oil Restrictors, .0625 in. Orifice Diameter, Chevy, Big Block/Small Block, Pair
Check to make sure this part fits your application
Reduce oil flow for more power.
When roller rocker arms are installed, along with a mechanical lifter cam, the amount of oil flow required to the valvetrain is greatly reduced. Installing a Moroso oil restrictor kit will limit this unnecessary oil flow. These kits reduce the power-robbing windage created from the excess oil draining past the rotating assembly and keeps the oil flowing where it is needed most, the rod and main bearings.
See the small side hole - I drill that out larger. the typical small block has only the threaded allen plug. the restrictor impeads the flow through
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Oil Restrictor Kits
Orifice Size: .0625 in.
Thread Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Oil Restrictors, .0625 in. Orifice Diameter, Chevy, Big Block/Small Block, Pair
Check to make sure this part fits your application
Reduce oil flow for more power.
When roller rocker arms are installed, along with a mechanical lifter cam, the amount of oil flow required to the valvetrain is greatly reduced. Installing a Moroso oil restrictor kit will limit this unnecessary oil flow. These kits reduce the power-robbing windage created from the excess oil draining past the rotating assembly and keeps the oil flowing where it is needed most, the rod and main bearings.
See the small side hole - I drill that out larger. the typical small block has only the threaded allen plug. the restrictor impeads the flow through
As I said.. My engine does have a oil restrictor..
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Make sure you do something with the rod...and really check side clearance etc on the one next to it.
When a bearing spins, the rod has lost the *crush* necessary to hold bearing in place. In your case the bearing stuck to the crank and it was just too much for the rod to hold. When it spins there is a LOT of heat and the big end of the rod gets distorted badly. Putting a new bearing in there without making hole round again will cause immediate faliure again.
I'm not a big fan of oil restrictors...but in your case there *might* be a need for them. Since you're not having any top end issues and you only drag race it...no street use.....I'd probably leave them in there I guess. Maybe.....
They were needed on lifters that weren't an edge orifice type..but all rollers are. The top end is already limited a good bit. A better chice if necessary is to use full oiling to lifters and use restricted pushrods. But again...you're not having issues up there..so not a big deal.
Double check restriction numbers on filter....to make sure. The Micron rating. The race filters usually are like 20+ micron rating.
How much total oil do you have in it?
You probably have H series bearings. But you need to make sure. There are several extremely different bearings that are all in the Clevite 77 line. The P series aren't tough enough for what you are doing.
JIM
When a bearing spins, the rod has lost the *crush* necessary to hold bearing in place. In your case the bearing stuck to the crank and it was just too much for the rod to hold. When it spins there is a LOT of heat and the big end of the rod gets distorted badly. Putting a new bearing in there without making hole round again will cause immediate faliure again.
I'm not a big fan of oil restrictors...but in your case there *might* be a need for them. Since you're not having any top end issues and you only drag race it...no street use.....I'd probably leave them in there I guess. Maybe.....
They were needed on lifters that weren't an edge orifice type..but all rollers are. The top end is already limited a good bit. A better chice if necessary is to use full oiling to lifters and use restricted pushrods. But again...you're not having issues up there..so not a big deal.
Double check restriction numbers on filter....to make sure. The Micron rating. The race filters usually are like 20+ micron rating.
How much total oil do you have in it?
You probably have H series bearings. But you need to make sure. There are several extremely different bearings that are all in the Clevite 77 line. The P series aren't tough enough for what you are doing.
JIM
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Thread Starter
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Make sure you do something with the rod...and really check side clearance etc on the one next to it.
When a bearing spins, the rod has lost the *crush* necessary to hold bearing in place. In your case the bearing stuck to the crank and it was just too much for the rod to hold. When it spins there is a LOT of heat and the big end of the rod gets distorted badly. Putting a new bearing in there without making hole round again will cause immediate faliure again.
I'm not a big fan of oil restrictors...but in your case there *might* be a need for them. Since you're not having any top end issues and you only drag race it...no street use.....I'd probably leave them in there I guess. Maybe.....
They were needed on lifters that weren't an edge orifice type..but all rollers are. The top end is already limited a good bit. A better chice if necessary is to use full oiling to lifters and use restricted pushrods. But again...you're not having issues up there..so not a big deal.
Double check restriction numbers on filter....to make sure. The Micron rating. The race filters usually are like 20+ micron rating.
How much total oil do you have in it?
You probably have H series bearings. But you need to make sure. There are several extremely different bearings that are all in the Clevite 77 line. The P series aren't tough enough for what you are doing.
JIM
When a bearing spins, the rod has lost the *crush* necessary to hold bearing in place. In your case the bearing stuck to the crank and it was just too much for the rod to hold. When it spins there is a LOT of heat and the big end of the rod gets distorted badly. Putting a new bearing in there without making hole round again will cause immediate faliure again.
I'm not a big fan of oil restrictors...but in your case there *might* be a need for them. Since you're not having any top end issues and you only drag race it...no street use.....I'd probably leave them in there I guess. Maybe.....
They were needed on lifters that weren't an edge orifice type..but all rollers are. The top end is already limited a good bit. A better chice if necessary is to use full oiling to lifters and use restricted pushrods. But again...you're not having issues up there..so not a big deal.
Double check restriction numbers on filter....to make sure. The Micron rating. The race filters usually are like 20+ micron rating.
How much total oil do you have in it?
You probably have H series bearings. But you need to make sure. There are several extremely different bearings that are all in the Clevite 77 line. The P series aren't tough enough for what you are doing.
JIM
I'll have all the components checked.. The rod doesn't look like it overheated.. I think that I caught it in time but I'll still have everything checked by a machine shop..
Oil restrictors work good for racing but are not recommended for street use (that's what I've heared)..
Where on the filter is the Micron rating? I use a regular K&N which is supposenly the best filter commonly available..
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If the bearing spun, there is no doubt it will need a tune up. No big deal but make sure it doesn't show heat issues.
Ck website for Micron rating. Street use and race stuff is a lot different. Generally race stuff needs a filter that actually filters less so that you don't get restriction. We change our oil a lot so it's not like a street motor that needs higher filtration to get all the stuff out of it.
If filter bypass is plugged, you need to really make sure that filter is low restriction.
JIM
Ck website for Micron rating. Street use and race stuff is a lot different. Generally race stuff needs a filter that actually filters less so that you don't get restriction. We change our oil a lot so it's not like a street motor that needs higher filtration to get all the stuff out of it.
If filter bypass is plugged, you need to really make sure that filter is low restriction.
JIM
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From: Gladstone MO
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#1 rod is the LAST thing in a Chevy SB engine to get oil. The cam gets it thru the galley drilled from the back and also down each lifter tunnel. The timing chain gets oil from the crank galley that feeds the cam bearings. #1 rod has to get it's oil from the passages in the crank.
#1 rod is the most commonly spun rod bearing.
Look at the crank very closely- I'll bet that it's going to need at least .010 and probably .020 to clean up. And after that look at the mains, and the cam bearings. If any trash got by the oil filter you may have another problem. Make sure a cam bearing didn't turn- all the oil holes line up. Crank passages all clear? I'd take a rod and clean the passages from the mains to the cam tunnel too.
#1 rod is the most commonly spun rod bearing.
Look at the crank very closely- I'll bet that it's going to need at least .010 and probably .020 to clean up. And after that look at the mains, and the cam bearings. If any trash got by the oil filter you may have another problem. Make sure a cam bearing didn't turn- all the oil holes line up. Crank passages all clear? I'd take a rod and clean the passages from the mains to the cam tunnel too.
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Rehermorrison says 90% of broken rods are due to spun bearings that over heats the rod and breaks it. I would look at the rod in question VERY carefully.
Do you have any kind of a time frame for the new motor ?? Got a more firm direction on it?? Cubes, etc, etc,???
Do you have any kind of a time frame for the new motor ?? Got a more firm direction on it?? Cubes, etc, etc,???
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
If the bearing spun, there is no doubt it will need a tune up. No big deal but make sure it doesn't show heat issues.
Ck website for Micron rating. Street use and race stuff is a lot different. Generally race stuff needs a filter that actually filters less so that you don't get restriction. We change our oil a lot so it's not like a street motor that needs higher filtration to get all the stuff out of it.
If filter bypass is plugged, you need to really make sure that filter is low restriction.
JIM
Ck website for Micron rating. Street use and race stuff is a lot different. Generally race stuff needs a filter that actually filters less so that you don't get restriction. We change our oil a lot so it's not like a street motor that needs higher filtration to get all the stuff out of it.
If filter bypass is plugged, you need to really make sure that filter is low restriction.
JIM
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Rehermorrison says 90% of broken rods are due to spun bearings that over heats the rod and breaks it. I would look at the rod in question VERY carefully.
Do you have any kind of a time frame for the new motor ?? Got a more firm direction on it?? Cubes, etc, etc,???
Do you have any kind of a time frame for the new motor ?? Got a more firm direction on it?? Cubes, etc, etc,???
The new engine will be build on a Dart Iron Eagle block..
Racer
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From: In the shop most of the time,,, And it BEER TIME somewhere
OK, I am going to try to confuse the issue here just a bit, I know that a roller cam set up does not need as much oil as a soild cam. But if you are using a high volume oil pump and oil restrictors and turning the engine lots of rpm, most of the oil will be pumped to the top of the engine and will take longer to make its way back to the oil pump,,,, Right? My idea here is not to slow the flow of oil if you dont need to. Where the restrictors are in the block is also an oil return to the pump, so why slow it down there. By doing this you can drain the pan of oil with a high volume pump. The amount of power that you MIGHT gain by using restrictors is tiny compared to an oil starvation problem.
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Here's some info that 540Rat and ML67 have put together for us. These are all 2qt long filters.
K&N # HP-6002
* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 10-20 micron filtration
* 12-16 gpm, NOT high flow
* $14.00 at Summit
* Moroso # 22461* No bypass
* HAS drainback valve
* 27 micron filtration
* High flow, only 2.5psi loss through filter
* $16.00 at Summit
* Wix # 51794R* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 28 gpm, high flow
* $17.00 on-line, or $26.00 at a local auto parts store, and is
special order, so will take a week or 2, double :-(
Part Number: 51794 UPC Number: 765809517943
Principal Application: Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (73-93)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 7.822
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 270
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 24
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
15267 3.444 3.100 0.260
==================================
Part Number: 51794R UPC Number: 765809129061
Principal Application: Racing Applications Only
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 7.820
Outer Diameter Top: 3.600
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Max Flow Rate: 28 GPM
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 3.444 3.100 0.260
Note the differences in flow rates. Less flow equals higher restriction. As you can see the K&N is over twice as restrictive as the Moroso or the WIX Racing filter. Ck the difference in the regular 51974 Wix and the 51794R race filter.
JIM
K&N # HP-6002
* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 10-20 micron filtration
* 12-16 gpm, NOT high flow
* $14.00 at Summit
* Moroso # 22461* No bypass
* HAS drainback valve
* 27 micron filtration
* High flow, only 2.5psi loss through filter
* $16.00 at Summit
* Wix # 51794R* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 28 gpm, high flow
* $17.00 on-line, or $26.00 at a local auto parts store, and is
special order, so will take a week or 2, double :-(
Part Number: 51794 UPC Number: 765809517943
Principal Application: Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (73-93)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 7.822
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 270
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 24
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
15267 3.444 3.100 0.260
==================================
Part Number: 51794R UPC Number: 765809129061
Principal Application: Racing Applications Only
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 7.820
Outer Diameter Top: 3.600
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Max Flow Rate: 28 GPM
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 3.444 3.100 0.260
Note the differences in flow rates. Less flow equals higher restriction. As you can see the K&N is over twice as restrictive as the Moroso or the WIX Racing filter. Ck the difference in the regular 51974 Wix and the 51794R race filter.
JIM
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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The restrictors they are talking about limit the oil flow INTO the oil galleys at the rear of block. These have nothing to do with oil return.
JIM
JIM
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Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Here's some info that 540Rat and ML67 have put together for us. These are all 2qt long filters.
K&N # HP-6002
* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 10-20 micron filtration
* 12-16 gpm, NOT high flow
* $14.00 at Summit
* Moroso # 22461* No bypass
* HAS drainback valve
* 27 micron filtration
* High flow, only 2.5psi loss through filter
* $16.00 at Summit
* Wix # 51794R* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 28 gpm, high flow
* $17.00 on-line, or $26.00 at a local auto parts store, and is
special order, so will take a week or 2, double :-(
Part Number: * * * *51794 UPC Number: * * * *765809517943
Principal Application: * * * *Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (73-93)
* * * * All Applications
Style: * * * *Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: * * * *Lube
Type: * * * *Full Flow
Media: * * * *Paper
Height: * * * *7.822
Outer Diameter Top: * * * *3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: * * * *Closed
Thread Size: * * * *13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: * * * *None
Burst Pressure-PSI: * * * *270
Max Flow Rate: * * * *9-11 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: * * * *24
Gasket Diameters
Number * * * *O.D. * * * *I.D. * * * *Thk.
15267 * * * * 3.444 * * * * 3.100 * * * * 0.260
==================================
Part Number: * * * 51794R UPC Number: * * * *765809129061
Principal Application: * * * *Racing Applications Only
* * * * All Applications
Style: * * * *Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: * * * *Lube
Type: * * * *Full Flow
Media: * * * *Paper
Height: * * * *7.820
Outer Diameter Top: * * * *3.600
Outer Diameter Bottom: * * * *Closed
Thread Size: * * * *13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: * * * *None
Max Flow Rate: * * * *28 GPM
Gasket Diameters
Number * * * *O.D. * * * *I.D. * * * *Thk.
Attached * * * * 3.444 * * * * 3.100 * * * * 0.260
Note the differences in flow rates. Less flow equals higher restriction. As you can see the K&N is over twice as restrictive as the Moroso or the WIX Racing filter. Ck the difference in the regular 51974 Wix and the 51794R race filter.
JIM
K&N # HP-6002
* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 10-20 micron filtration
* 12-16 gpm, NOT high flow
* $14.00 at Summit
* Moroso # 22461* No bypass
* HAS drainback valve
* 27 micron filtration
* High flow, only 2.5psi loss through filter
* $16.00 at Summit
* Wix # 51794R* No bypass
* No drainback valve
* 28 gpm, high flow
* $17.00 on-line, or $26.00 at a local auto parts store, and is
special order, so will take a week or 2, double :-(
Part Number: * * * *51794 UPC Number: * * * *765809517943
Principal Application: * * * *Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (73-93)
* * * * All Applications
Style: * * * *Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: * * * *Lube
Type: * * * *Full Flow
Media: * * * *Paper
Height: * * * *7.822
Outer Diameter Top: * * * *3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: * * * *Closed
Thread Size: * * * *13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: * * * *None
Burst Pressure-PSI: * * * *270
Max Flow Rate: * * * *9-11 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: * * * *24
Gasket Diameters
Number * * * *O.D. * * * *I.D. * * * *Thk.
15267 * * * * 3.444 * * * * 3.100 * * * * 0.260
==================================
Part Number: * * * 51794R UPC Number: * * * *765809129061
Principal Application: * * * *Racing Applications Only
* * * * All Applications
Style: * * * *Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: * * * *Lube
Type: * * * *Full Flow
Media: * * * *Paper
Height: * * * *7.820
Outer Diameter Top: * * * *3.600
Outer Diameter Bottom: * * * *Closed
Thread Size: * * * *13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: * * * *None
Max Flow Rate: * * * *28 GPM
Gasket Diameters
Number * * * *O.D. * * * *I.D. * * * *Thk.
Attached * * * * 3.444 * * * * 3.100 * * * * 0.260
Note the differences in flow rates. Less flow equals higher restriction. As you can see the K&N is over twice as restrictive as the Moroso or the WIX Racing filter. Ck the difference in the regular 51974 Wix and the 51794R race filter.
JIM
Thanks for the info!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I wonder if I can have the crank polished at the main bearings and cut at the rod bearings. Will that throw off the balance? If the crank has to be cut, will it have to be cut at the rods and at the mains? How much does a machine shop usually charge to cut/polish the crank and resize rods?