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Points replacement versus HEI Distributor

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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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Default Points replacement versus HEI Distributor

For a mostly stock '68 327, which is better?

Due to some prior experience with traditional points, I prefer the electronic option, but which one is better?

HEI Distributor with built in coil?

Stock Distributor with points replacement and upgraded coil?

It appears as if Bubba or previous owner did a no-name points replacement without upgrading the coil or removing the no longer necessary smoothing capacitor. New engine build will have new engine wiring harness and spark plug wires. I have already installed an internally regulated, higher output alternator and bypassed the old regulator.

Also, I have seen a couple of these around on the forum, they look like rail mountings for the spark plug wires that lay flat next to the valve covers.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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I like points systems, run them in many of my old cars...but I think I like electronic systems (HEI) a little better.

Easier starting, and more durable, also the wiring couldn't be easier. I've even put a GM HEI system on my mostly original '69 427/435 tripower, just barely fits behind the rear carb.

As far as I know, you will always need a condenser with breaker points, it's been argued that it won't run without it, I'm not sure: what it mainly does it make the points last longer by minimizing metal transfer between the points faces.

Steve
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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My personal opinion is Electrics are better for a lot of reasons
The condensor does 2 things: Its main job is to quickly collapse the mag field built in the coil by shorting the coil to ground, that produces a bigger spark. It might work without it, but not well.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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If you do a search (I know, you've heard this before) you will find HUNDREDS of threads on this topic. Points require a bit more maintenance. But they give you a warning before they start going bad.
HEI works great...when it works. When it craps out....no warning and you are stranded. Hello tow truck. You can carry a spare set of points in your glove compartment. Can't carry a spare distributor, and good luck installing a distributor on the side of a road

Dep

Last edited by DJ Dep; Feb 23, 2007 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Run your stock distributor with a set of Echlin CS-786 points and an RR175 condenser. Add an MSD-6AL box with a good coil, and you have a system that is unbeatable once you re-curve the distributor. If you hide the box, it will look stock.

I've done back-to-back dyno testing of points versus HEI conversions. There is no performance difference if the advance curves are the same. However, the addition of the MSD to the stock points does produce a measurable (slight) advantage.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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lars!!!!! Was hoping you'd check in.

Dep
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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HEI is the way to go. I put a GM 6 cyl HEI on my Jeep AMC 258. I just needed to change out the gear with one from an AMC 360. Works very well. That same motor which used to be carburated now has a GM 4.3 TBI setup. Runs even when upside down.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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Thanks for the responses.

Any word on the spark plug mounting rails?
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Default Hei w/external coil

Here is some additional, more detailed info on points and hei internal and external. More things to consider



Originally Posted by IgnitionMan
It is, save for the junker epoxy coils in the caps, even the aftermarket "50,000 volt" ones

A points system will give, on the very first spark on new points, about 6,500 volts to the plugs. The drop-in systems, PerTronix Ignitor, Mallory Unilite and magnetic, Breakerless, Comp-U-Fire, Crane XRi and others, work the same way, give no more voltage than a points set, they just do it consistantly. These systems have no dwell extension and/or drivers to make more spark energy within the coil, no matter the voltage feed into them, no matter the coil used, plain and simple. These systems have been refered to as "HEI" by others and overhype advertizing by their manufacturers and misguided and misleading magazine test editors, when in fact, they are not even close to producing HEI type spark levels and performance.

A large cap HEI will give 18,000 volts with a stock coil, and aftermarket coils will give 22,000 volts, period. Reason: the coil temps go nuclear from tgwo reasons, epoxy filling, as these filllings do not allow heat leaching out of the core. So, what heat is made in the core, stays in the core. And, they are placed under a cover, which holds even more heat into the coil, which increases coil resistance, which lowers the output voltage, and on, and on.

Remote mounted oil filled coils work well with the HEI, using cap adapter MSD 8401, a section of magnetic suppression, spiral or "magna" core coil wirte gets the better coil to the adapter and better overall spark. I have seen a lot of large cap HEI's deliver upwards of 32,000 HONEST volts when this coil change is made. Oil filled coils leach heat from the core much the same way a thermo-siphon cooling system does, so...core heat is trqansferred to the outer jacket, and both the core and coolant are constgantly and consistantly cooled, over and over again.

Contrary to what some know it all's have tried to put over on the unsuspecting user public, the modules in HEI's are NOT the main problem with rev limiting some are saying is the cause. Unless they are damaged by a coil that is layer shorting, they aren't the problem at all. The coil is. Best rev limiter GM ever developed. Get that epoxy coil out of the cap, better distributor overall, that large cap HEI. Recent magazine and other testing of HEI modules has proven that even the "cheapie" offshore modules perform within one percent of the big name modules.

HEI myths:

Module is the cause of rpm limiting, nope, in cap coils are the real cause.

Mechanical advance curves can be limited by altering the slots on the mainshaft. Well, maybe, but why do that, when the start/stop and curve points are done with the weight and center curvature profiles? Use the right three parts, spring them correctly, correct curve is then in place. 375 center plate, 41 weights are good for 21/22 crankshaft degrees of mechanical advance, same parts used in ZZ distributors, from ZZZ to carburetted ZZ572, and every small and big block Suburban from the late 70's to early 80's and most medium to heavy duty trucks.

Any old set of weights and center will do, I've got these, but the timing isn't right. Yup, as there are only 437 different curve combinations from factory weights and centers, try 'em all, or use the two numbers above, your choice. Nope, new weights and centers are NOT available separately from GM. Nope, current curve kits abvailable don't work.

The magnetic pickups never give trouble. Another misnomer. In reality, HEI magnetifc pickups are right down there with Mopar pickups as far as low pereformance, and the4y suffer frm wire breakage, and other problems. Best in the industry are the Ford/MSD pickups.

HEI was designed as a performance distributor. Far from it, it was designed for two reasons, 1, emissions compliance. The EPA requires new vehicles to have ignition systems that don't require maintenance for 50,000 miles, and no tampering is allowed within the mileage frame. So, GM and others had to develope no tamper systems, and we got the HEI. 2, as emissions regs required leaner air/fuel ratios, less and less fuel molecules were induced into the chamber to burn, and these molecules were placed farther apart than from richer mixtur4e strengths, so...a higher voltage system had to be developed to light the further away from each other fuel molecules off. this was done by increasing spark voltage oputput and larger spark plug gaps to get a better spark kernal as less fuel molecules pass through the spark plug gap.

HEI caps were designed to stop crossfire and scatter sparking. NOT, they were designed to get the coil into the cap, and all the components inside the cap, nothing more. A correctly phased small diameter distributor, even as small as a Mallory, won't have cross and/or scatter fire issues.

HEI's are no maintenance. Nothing could be farther from the truth. HEI's require the same amount of maintenance as any other distributor, save for points adjustment. Don't lube those weights at their pivot, expect the pins and weights to try to auger their way apart, wearing both out, to the point of breaking the pins right off the reluctor plate.

Now, this is NOT an advertisment, it is fact...so...nobody go get crazy over it, advertizing it ain't. The Corvette distributors are expensive, and shouldn't be permanently altered, but, there are ways to do a real live HEI or MSD trigger only conversion to them using parts from low cost regular points distributors. If the points plate and points cam assemblies are used/altered from a junker regular points distributor, the stock Corvette parts are set aside, so... if the owner wants to return it to stock points at a later date , he can do so, and the distributor isn't permanently altered. This requires a remote mounted HEI or MSD module, but that isn't an issue. How do I know this? I am the Dave that is the guy at DAVE's small-body HEI's. and now, I am also doing feedback HEI conversions, for EFI useage. In fact, I have a Corvette tach drive dist here to do as a feedback HEI for a noted MASCAR racer for his personal 1966 427/390 he is Commander 950'ing. Anoother will be here next week to do the same. Please understand, these HEI conversions use real HEi mmodules, not aftermarket stuff like PerTronix, etc.

If anyone tells you a cast iron tach drive or FI dist can't be converted to a real, live HEI, or MSD trigger only, or feedback HEI, smile, and walk away. You already know better.

Just why was the above NOT an advertizenment? Well. I have a policy, I do not do conversions for board members from the sites I visit, no exceptions. So...even if I get an enquiry from someone here, I won't respond, nor do a conversion for them. This frees me up to answer questions honestly, and not get flamed for, and/or accused of "advertizing on the site" by some accusrer types. Decliining work from board members, no ad. This includes anyone responding from the above link to my web site, from this site. I'm here to answer questions, not advertize.

BTW, I own 9 Corvettes, all pre-1970 models.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Great and detailed info:

If I read the above correctly, the HEI was only due to:
1) Tamper-proof ignition
2) Higher energy spark, which was only required due to fuel-lean emissions regs.
3) "Maintenance free" aspect.

Don't I feel like a sucker for marketing!

It sounds like replacing the stock distributor with an HEI system is a waste of money and more of a liability. While I am not necessarily fond of the maintenance of traditional point, I am also familiar with the "no warning" failure of a drop-in system like Pertronix.

It would seem like the best option for me is a drop-in type system with a spare set of points and tools in the rear compartment, just-in-case.

As always, the forum straighten things out.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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Another option is to go with the Breakerless SE setup from LectricLimited. I put mine in two years ago and have had no problems with it. I like the fact that it uses the one wire that is already in your distributor and therefore looks completely stock. I know that a number of folks prefer points but I like the no maintenance factor with the setup I have. Good luck with your decision
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Stavros
I am also familiar with the "no warning" failure of a drop-in system like Pertronix.
OUCH!! If you do a search of the archives you will see a LONG list of people who had nothing but problems with Pertronix. Of all the conversion systems, that would be the one you should avoid like the plague!!!

Dep

Last edited by DJ Dep; Feb 26, 2007 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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I think that I am one of them; I just bought my Vette and I think its most recent failure is due to the Pertronix failure, checking on that after work. I have had an excellent experience with the Accell points replacement in other cars.

Any word on the spark plug mounting rails?

Last edited by Stavros; Feb 26, 2007 at 06:11 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Stavros
I think that I am one of them; I just bought my Vette and I think its most recent failure is due to the Pertronix failure, checking on that after work. I have had an excellent experience with the Accell points replacement in other cars.
It could very well be the problem. Most guys that used Pertronix carried a spare set of points/condensor in the car with them. Accel points and the Echelin points Lars mentioned are excellent choices. The Accel performance points do have a pretty strong spring (make sure to use distributor cam lube) and they might wear the rubbing block down sooner. But point bounce is nil with them.

Dep
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Old May 16, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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Default Really???

I have been a professional wrench since the mid 70's. I've been under the hoods of everything from 50's vintage Nash (Nash-i, Nash-e-seez??) to the latest Audi... NOTHING and I DO MEAN NOTHING has affected automotive reliability and performance more than HEI type systems.

After being schooled 'above', one thing is painfully evident... The author never had to lay in a half frozen drainage ditch hooking 'J' chains onto some cheap bas***ds Dart because he just had to push those points another month. Points set ups begin to degrade from the very first spark, regardless of quality or brand, it's the nature of the beast. Degraded points = bad spark; bad spark = foul plugs. Soon, "Hey, lets all get out and push".

Sure, nothing is perfect, and the first generation HEI set ups were lacking. But I have seen them go 80,000+ miles before quitting time. Points? Maybe 30K at best. I'd say thats trump.

GM pickup coils with vacuum advance did indeed snap wires as they aged. I've dragged plenty of them into the shop, but the tech. got better and the vac advance headed for the burn barrel, problem solved. No twistee, no breakee.

Heat soak has plagued electrical 'everything' since Ben Frankln melted his first kite. Hot copper? You bet, drive that sputtering old points fired Falcon around the block on a hot day and grab that bottle coil: OUCH!

Spark curve: Ideas about spark curves are like vacuum cleaners; every one has one and they all suck. The factorys have always done a GREAT deal of research on stuff like this. They have paid a lot of money to a lot of people to work these things out. The best timing and advance is the one provided. If you plan on keeping all the bolts and gears under the hood, let it be. Keep it lightly oiled and working as provided and you will have nothing but sucess. Sure, you can pick up a little power, maybe, but it's just not worth the trouble it can cause. OK, so Johnny law only gets to write you a ticket for 110 insted of 112 in that school zone... oh well you can always add the two miles per hour to the story at the bar.

I have seen cowboys slap a new bumpstick and lifters along with rockers and a chrome air cleaner onto that SS, then put bus springs on the weights and crank the distributer to the left three or four ticks... the next 30 miles get real expencive real fast. The guys that make your cam will tell you what to do... don't just make it up, you'll be wrong.

Golden rule of timing and curve: The cam decides, not you.

To follow the above line of logic, we should all still be riding horses. Let me tell you, I have never had to get up and hour early and feed my C3's HEI some hay.

I mean no disrespect, but really, I perfer Levis over Buffalo pelts.

Last edited by ThePabst; May 16, 2012 at 02:52 PM.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Nice rant- but you're digging up a post that's been inactive since 2007.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 03:22 PM
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It cought my eye while searching for some other stuff... I usually pass on this stuff, but it really is wrong and I'm always running a little behind...

Last edited by ThePabst; May 16, 2012 at 03:27 PM.
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To Points replacement versus HEI Distributor

Old May 16, 2012 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePabst
Spark curve: Ideas about spark curves are like vacuum cleaners; every one has one and they all suck. The factorys have always done a GREAT deal of research on stuff like this. They have paid a lot of money to a lot of people to work these things out. The best timing and advance is the one provided.
Not true! Have you read this?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...long-post.html
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Old May 16, 2012 | 04:36 PM
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Saying 'not true', is, well, 'not true'. I stand by what I have written and offer it in good humor.

Fact is, all the banter and bluster still comes down to you and me idling in traffic at Main and Elm wishing that we had a levitate button.

The jist was that thinking that points are better than a microchip is nuts in my book. Short of needing to survive a nuclear attack, points have, in my experiance, always been a very weak link. They simply can not touch the flexibility and dependability of the stuff available these days.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Not debating points vs HEI.
Your statement "the best timing and advance is the one provided". It is not the best if you want a little more pep out of you car.
Stock distributor curve is near the red line and was made that way to avoid warranty claims.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/joe..._Recurve.shtml

Last edited by Peterbuilt; May 16, 2012 at 04:57 PM. Reason: ad link
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