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I went back through the archives researching this problem for my own engine. The consensus seems to be that for the street, a bigger heavier damper is better. I got a Pioneer 8", 10lbs.
i'd like to hear too. i got a fluidampr based on their clain that it will not wear out like the factory style. and if kept to a reasonable rpm, the factory type lasts a long time . . .
I have run a Fluidamper on mine for 6 years now and 2 motors. No problems at all. It sees 65 to 7000 rpm quite a lot.
What is supposed to go wrong with them?
From: In the shop most of the time,,, And it BEER TIME somewhere
I have had a Fluidamper for 10 years, no problems. Its been to 8000 rpm many many times. Also, someone said he didnt think you can balance an engine with a fluid style balancer on. I think you can. They are not liquid filled, but have what they call a rubber elastometer[I think] in them, But might not sell very good if that is what you called it.
I have not owned a fluidamper on a car. but I have put millons of
miles on diesel truck engines they have fluid dampers on them.
I have a hard time believing one would fail on a car.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 2, 2007 at 02:13 PM.
The Fluid dampers are neutral balanced therefore do not require balancing like a stock balancer does. You cannot balance a Fluidamper. Balance the motor without it and put it on and forget about it. It works. There are others out there that work just as well but I can't figure why Scat would say not to use them. Unless they build or sell one of the other dampers.
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Originally Posted by Gordonm
The Fluid dampers are neutral balanced therefore do not require balancing like a stock balancer does. You cannot balance a Fluidamper. Balance the motor without it and put it on and forget about it. It works. There are others out there that work just as well but I can't figure why Scat would say not to use them. Unless they build or sell one of the other dampers.
In other threads I can find, it has to do with their 9000 material.
Everything I can find says balance it with a stock damper and then put on the fluidampr.
I don't personally have any experience with fluid dampers but my machinest who builds a lot of racing engines for the local circle track guys, won't use a fluid damper. He has experienced broken cranks that he attributed to the fluid damper.
I don't personally have any experience with fluid dampers but my machinest who builds a lot of racing engines for the local circle track guys, won't use a fluid damper. He has experienced broken cranks that he attributed to the fluid damper.
I think he has other issues if he's breaking cranks, a fluid damper is a perfectly valid concept technically unless he is running the cranks at such a high rpm that the tuning of the fluid dampers may not be optimum. All dampers are compromises depending on speed (i.e. frequency) ... if you want the best for any application, you have to get the correct one for your operating speeds.
I agree that you don't want the fluid damper on the engine during balancing. They are nutral balanced from the factory unless you have an externally balanced engine, then they come with the counter weight which DOES need to be installed (ONLY the counter weight and not the whole damper).