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I'll do everyone a favor on this one and tell you to get copper gaskets- can get them at Jeg's or Summit Racing for about $38... or you can go to ebay like i did and get them for about $22- good luck.
I'll do everyone a favor on this one and tell you to get copper gaskets- can get them at Jeg's or Summit Racing for about $38... or you can go to ebay like i did and get them for about $22- good luck.
Thanks!
Are you talking about the all copper self sealing or the rubber coated copper?
I agree with 63mako, cometic is the way to go, they cost more but then again you get what you pay for, dont forget whatever brand you go with re-torque them after youve gotten the motor hot and let it cool.
Are you talking about the all copper self sealing or the rubber coated copper?
The rubber coated copper ones were used on one of my neighbors I found out and he's had them for 3 yrs w/ no problem, but you might want to look into those cometic ones- good luck!
Thanks everyone. After reading all the input and doing some more research, I decided to go with the Cometic. Might be overkill but with all the new hardware, I figured it didn't make sense to try and save a few bucks for such an important part.
Thanks everyone. After reading all the input and doing some more research, I decided to go with the Cometic. Might be overkill but with all the new hardware, I figured it didn't make sense to try and save a few bucks for such an important part.
If your engine is mostly stock,go with felpro permatorgue,cometics is way over kill.Also i used cometics on one sbc and they didnot seal all the way,water was leeching into the oil.Cometic says not to use any sealers at all.So if your engine block is not machined almost perfect it wont seal properly.Just a heads up about the cometics.By the way,they are the best gaskets out there ,especially for boost applications.I will explain a little better what happened,you know how you have a rough machine surface on the block,well the water leeched through to the oil through these rough machine creaveses.This was with new aluminum heads too,trickflow.
Last edited by Billysvette; Mar 9, 2007 at 03:59 PM.
Thanks everyone. After reading all the input and doing some more research, I decided to go with the Cometic. Might be overkill but with all the new hardware, I figured it didn't make sense to try and save a few bucks for such an important part.
Guess which gasket GM installs OE in it's GMPP ZZ383 w/ 425HP (383 iron block & fastburn Alum heads)? ... save ya the trouble ... it's 10105117 ... look it up if ya don't wanna believe ... it's in the back of the GMPP catalog. You don't need cometic ... and for the reasons given by billysvette ... you might be worse off with em (leaks unless block & heads VERY VERY smooth).
-edit- it's your time & $ ... just tryin' to help ... If you feel you MUST have an MLS gasket ... look into a Victor Reinz MLS ... Victor engineers theirs so theirs do NOT require quite as smooth surface (Minimum Ra) than others such as cometic.
Guess which gasket GM installs OE in it's GMPP ZZ383 w/ 425HP (383 iron block & fastburn Alum heads)? ... save ya the trouble ... it's 10105117 ... look it up if ya don't wanna believe ... it's in the back of the GMPP catalog. You don't need cometic ... and for the reasons given by billysvette ... you might be worse off with em (leaks unless block & heads VERY VERY smooth).
I didn't think about the block deck maybe not being smooth. If it is not real nice the gasket jackson recommened is probably a better choice. If the block finish is correct the Cometic's are the best.
I did the same head swap last spring and used the Fel-pro perma-torqe
gasket with new ARP head bolts. Torqed them down once and never touched them again. Do spend the time to get the guide plates right.
One other thing. Your warm up time will be longer with more hesitation without the heat riser passage.
Bob