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i don't know about the moulding, but i'm doing a 70 vert also, and all i have to say is that you've got more brass than me for tackling that bird cage! good work!
Wow, that looked pretty bad. You can use black silicone to seal the chrome pieces on top to keep water out, there should not be any water getting in the channel that way. Nice job
1st off that was a big job and it looks like it came out ok - congrats!
2nd it appears this is big gray area as I asked a simular question some time ago and got no response. I was only replacing the weatherstripping but as this piece came off and another followed and then another well before you know it.
What I have gathered is this. All the photos Ive seen show the top windshields trim piece goes on first. The side pieces then fit over top of it. The side pieces are screwed into the frame via (4) screws through the weatherestripping. Like 6footer said caulk should be used but I am still torn about using silicon. I have yet to caulk the trim pieces between them and the glass because I am still not convinced silicon is the way to go. I think a rubber butyl is a better choice but I havn't tried to find it yet to buy it.
Don't know about the sealer, but the side trim pieces go on first followed by the top trim piece. A little fiddly to get them aligned properly, especially if you've removed the top clips to do your repair.
Since the uprights were acutally pretty sound, I cut out the bad sections and welded in patches, welded in new corners and header, and thanks to Kevin at Vettesbydesign, welded in a really nice lower section he was able to get to me. Luckily, the rest of the cage was ok. It was scary to start, but once I got iinto it, it went ok. I am happy with the results.
My big question is the thin upper molding (not the header molding)...does it go on first onto the clips, or does the header moldings go on first. I know the sides go on over the top thin molding. I hope you know what I mean.
Froom the write up from PWS, it looks like the header moldings are on before the ones that go around the ws itself. Is that correct.
Last edited by ctrain22; Mar 13, 2007 at 04:18 PM.
Reason: forgot to ask further question
Paul,
That is a great write up on the windshield. Helped tremendously. Where did you get the foam rubber insulation strip that goes bewtween the inner and outter pillar moldings? I can't find it with any of or vendors.
Good Work!
I had a similar situation as yours and repaired mine myself as well. Keep this in the back of your mind though, when installing the windshield there are "spacers" that need to be placed between the windshield and the frame. Or an extra thick bead of the windshield adhesive needs to be installed. If one of the two of these isn't done, you will have about a 1/4"-3/8" gap between the windshield and molding. I found this out the hard way. I hope I explained this clearly but if not I can e-mail you a couple of pics to clarify.
Paul,
That is a great write up on the windshield. Helped tremendously. Where did you get the foam rubber insulation strip that goes bewtween the inner and outter pillar moldings? I can't find it with any of or vendors.
I did get it from one of the vendors, but I don't remember which one. I purchased almost all of my parts 4-6 years ago (when they were much less expensive and better quality!!) from each of them and have been picking away at the car since. Try Doc Rebuild.
Originally Posted by ctrain22
it looks like the header moldings are on before the ones that go around the ws itself. Is that correct.
Hey Pws69.
I just looked at the writeup you did, Very Nice! Question about the Butyl. You mention both a butyl tape + a sealer? Next time you go out to look at your car or if you remember - what did you use between the stainless windshiled trim pieces and the glass? And yes she is purty?
chuck
Nice Job! I recently did similar work, although my birdcage wasn't as bad. I used the writeup that is mentioned, helped A LOT. Definitely use the spacers, Butyl tape with urethane on each side should bring it to exactly the right height. I installed the windshield, then used only the top piece of trim to hold it in place. It is sitting that way now, working on the engine. Planning on using RTV between the trim molding and the glass, should fill the area nicely. Also, noticed that the top end clips may have to be tweaked to get the molding perfect. Good luck.
Hey Pws69.
I just looked at the writeup you did, Very Nice! Question about the Butyl. You mention both a butyl tape + a sealer? Next time you go out to look at your car or if you remember - what did you use between the stainless windshiled trim pieces and the glass? And yes she is purty?
chuck
Thanks!
If I understand you correctly, nothing between any of the three pieces that touch the glass and the glass itself! That's about the only place that doesn't have anything there. The seal is actually at the glass edges and where the molding attaches to the w/s frame.
Nice Job! I recently did similar work, although my birdcage wasn't as bad. I used the writeup that is mentioned, helped A LOT. Definitely use the spacers, Butyl tape with urethane on each side should bring it to exactly the right height. I installed the windshield, then used only the top piece of trim to hold it in place. It is sitting that way now, working on the engine. Planning on using RTV between the trim molding and the glass, should fill the area nicely. Also, noticed that the top end clips may have to be tweaked to get the molding perfect. Good luck.
You should NOT fill the area between the molding and the glass - it is a drainage channel that lets the water drain down into the pillar area where the pillar weatherstrip carries it to the outside.
You should NOT fill the area between the molding and the glass - it is a drainage channel that lets the water drain down into the pillar area where the pillar weatherstrip carries it to the outside.
Hey pws69 -I guess that answers the mystery question for me. My concern was water thanks
chuck