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I finally got my 78 vette running, now ive been having some problems. When i start thne car it will start fine, But it will not idle alone, if i dont givei t some sort of gas it will quit on me. NOW this isnt just at start up it will do it constantly, even after an hour of driving it will still do itif i let go of the gas.
I have to drive this car like its standard because the second i put it into drive, it will shut off on me. Can someone tell me why my car will not idle at all.... It runs great, just exept for the fact i cant let it get down to 1k rpm....
You say you just got it running, how long did it set without being run? What is the initial advance set at? Did it set long enough to let the gasoline evaporate out of the carburetor? Did you have the carburetor off the engine and have you checked for vacuum leaks?
It sat for 7 years prior to when i got it.. I dont know if he started it up.. Once i had it i would try to start it every day. But this is the first time its been on the road in 8 years.
Now i messed with my carb..(im running a q-jet) and now when i put it right from park to drive it stalls, If i put it into park to drive give it gas then let go it will idle for about 10 seconds and slowly go from 1k rpm to 600 then shut off.. Its the same for reverse.
I put a new fuel line in, i put fuel system cleaner int he system with 93 octane, and i ran about 15 gallons through it in the past week. It has a new fuel filter also. I also dont know what the advance is set at how would i check that, and its never been of the car, and hows the best way to check for vacuum leaks...
What i odnt get is it will run perfect exept it wont idle.... Can i get the link to lars's setup, and also some instructions on how to check for things like advance set, and all
I wouldn't fool with anything but the carb.
Put a kit in it and see what happens.
Chances are high that it ran well when put away so. the only thing that has gone bad is the carb, gaskets dried out and leaking, float deteriorated, gummed up, needle valve gone bad etc.
The hei shouldn't have been affected by long term storage and timing definately hasn't changed.
get a timing light from a local parts store- get the dial kind.... more expensive, but it's worth it to find advance timing as well as initial timing. put the connector on the #1 spark plug wire and shoot the light at the timing belt- located in the front of the engine- stand at the left 1/4 panel- above the alternator and shoot the light at an angle towards the bottom/front of the engine- you will notice a white line (probably find it easier if you turn the dial up and down- it will move the line). Once you've found it- set the dial to about 6 or 8. Initial should be set at around 6- look up under the hood where you stand now and you will see what the engine should be at- should be 6 initial timing and 500rpm in drive. So for now- set the dial on the timing light at 6- shine it at the timing belt- the white line should be at the 0 mark- large cut out- looks like shark teeth(work with me here). If it's not- loosen the distibutor- get a 9/16 wrench -loosen bolt located at the base of distributor- don't know your knowledge, so i'll tell you that the distributor is located towards the back of the engine- where the spark plug wires go into. Once loosened- move the distributor back and forward until you get the white line on the zero mark. Tighten it and there you go... there is more involved when trying to do advanced timing, but i'm getting tired of writting now.
With all that said- check the timing, but i feel it's a vacuum leak. Check the bolt behind the carb to see if it loosened. Then (while the car is on) spray carb cleaner in the carb(even the small holes, get the whole thing pretty good), then while you're at it- spray the vacuum lines to see if you can see a leak- the liquid carb cleaner will show bubbles if you hit a leak.
Well i know my cars and chevy v8's. I put this car back together and bassicly worked on every bit of the car so far. Even put a heater core in.. I wont let anyone else work on my car...
But ill do all that later tonite, i work better at night... once 11pm comes aorund i love working on my car.
Now wont spraying carb cleaner down why its running cause an explosion up through the carb?? I just put new plugs in it, its running alot better, still doesnt want to idle tonite i have to pick up my wires, and next weekend im getting a msd Cap and rotor kit and a new coil for my distrib... But i want to send my carb out to lars soon... maybe that should just be it..
[QUOTE=frostbitten09;1559390981]Well i know my cars and chevy v8's. I put this car back together and bassicly worked on every bit of the car so far. Even put a heater core in.. I wont let anyone else work on my car...
But ill do all that later tonite, i work better at night... once 11pm comes aorund i love working on my car.
Now wont spraying carb cleaner down why its running cause an explosion up through the carb?? I just put new plugs in it, its running alot better, still doesnt want to idle tonite i have to pick up my wires, and next weekend im getting a msd Cap and rotor kit and a new coil for my distrib... But i want to send my carb out to lars soon... maybe that should just be it..[/QUOTE]
I think that Lars turns em around in a week or two. Based on how long the carb sat, I think that getting it taken care of is the right choice.
get a timing light from a local parts store- get the dial kind.... more expensive, but it's worth it to find advance timing as well as initial timing. put the connector on the #1 spark plug wire and shoot the light at the timing belt- located in the front of the engine- stand at the left 1/4 panel- above the alternator and shoot the light at an angle towards the bottom/front of the engine- you will notice a white line (probably find it easier if you turn the dial up and down- it will move the line). Once you've found it- set the dial to about 6 or 8. Initial should be set at around 6- look up under the hood where you stand now and you will see what the engine should be at- should be 6 initial timing and 500rpm in drive. So for now- set the dial on the timing light at 6- shine it at the timing belt- the white line should be at the 0 mark- large cut out- looks like shark teeth(work with me here). If it's not- loosen the distibutor- get a 9/16 wrench -loosen bolt located at the base of distributor- don't know your knowledge, so i'll tell you that the distributor is located towards the back of the engine- where the spark plug wires go into. Once loosened- move the distributor back and forward until you get the white line on the zero mark. Tighten it and there you go... there is more involved when trying to do advanced timing, but i'm getting tired of writting now.
With all that said- check the timing, but i feel it's a vacuum leak. Check the bolt behind the carb to see if it loosened. Then (while the car is on) spray carb cleaner in the carb(even the small holes, get the whole thing pretty good), then while you're at it- spray the vacuum lines to see if you can see a leak- the liquid carb cleaner will show bubbles if you hit a leak.
Good luck- let us know.
With all of the above. Check your timing first, then isolate it down to the vacuum or carb.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
As the other have said.... here is whatI would do:
1. First, check and set up your total timing. Get that total set to 36 degrees and make sure you have initial timing in the mid-teen range.
2. When you have the hose pulled off your vacuum advance control unit while setting the timing, suck on the hose and see if the vacuum control unit holds a vacuum. It should be tight and not leak. It is very common for the old units to be ruptured, and this vacuum leak with resultant loss of vacuum advance can cause your problems. If it holds vacuum, hook it up to a manifold vacuum source on the carb - not ported vacuum. But if it leaks, replace it. I can get you a good part number if you need it.
3. Pull every single hose off the carb except the vacuum advance and the PCV. Cap off every open port on the carb where you have pulled off a hose, including the power brake port.
4. Screw your idle mixture screws all the way in until they lightly seat and then back them both out 6 turns.
5. Make sure you have a fresh fuel filter in the carb. Let me know if you need a part number.
6. Make sure the carb attach bolts are snug (but not over-tightened).
Now start it up and see if you can get it to idle by just setting the idle speed screw. If it's still wanting to die, or if it has an erratic unacceptable idle, you may have a carb problem from a plugged up idle fuel circuit - not uncommon for a car that has been sitting for a while.
You say you know cars and Chevy engines but you don't know how to check ignition advance and you think spraying carburetor cleaner into the carburetor of a running engine will cause an explosion.
I'm not even going to try and give you advice, since I know next to nothing. But the this forum helped me with my idle issues after the car sat for about the same amount of time.
You say you know cars and Chevy engines but you don't know how to check ignition advance and you think spraying carburetor cleaner into the carburetor of a running engine will cause an explosion.
Am I missing something here?
BigBlockk
Later.....
I know most,I know the basics just dont watn to mess up. And i arready had a small explosing come out of my carb, wasnt pleasant.... Had a backfire and had a fireball came out of the carb so wasnt sure if spraying some other flamable fluid down could do it.. Im not trying to get burned just being safe