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Callies even uses Chinese blanks now for their low end and midgrade cranks. Some of the really high end billet cranks are made from US steel but your talking $3000
I have a lightweight cast crank from scat.....ext balanced....I bought me a new ext balanced balancer and flexplate......should've been ok right?.....brought it to the machine shop anyways to have the bottom end balanced cause of the clearancing I did to the 5.7" rods.....the guy put it on the machine and he said his machine was shaking pretty bad at around 1500 rpms....he said it was one of the worst he's seen, so he went to drilling/balancing....built the motor and the car runs freakin awesome!
take that as you want it, it's just my experience.....I'd have a trusting shop check the bottom end no matter what I buy.....I just don't trust them....I miked all the journals on the crank, my block, rods, etc...
Lars thanks for jumping in! With your experience, there is No doubt that you know what your talking about. Many poeple like to hear your take on things, myself included. At what RPM do you step up to forged PISTONS and forged CRANK? Again, I apologize to a Oldguard 7 for stepping on his thread. If for whatever reason there are no responses to this question, I will start new thread, and stop highjacking Oldguards. As 63Mako has posted, even an L82 has a forged rotating assembly. Many other high performance engines from the 60's and early 70's, also had forged components and had redlines AT OR LOWER than 6500 rpm. With todays modern head designs and newer cam profiles, its not that hard to match or exceed many of the old muscle car engines HP/rpm levels. If GM and (and other manufacturers) engineers saw a need to put the more expensive/stronger components in the high performance engines, as we duplicate or exceed there outputs, shouldn't we do the same? No disrespect intended to you in these questions. I will be the FIRST to admit that you have a FAR GREATER amount of experience than I do. Just looking for an honest answer/personal opinion on the subject. Thanks in advance.
Check these engine specs.http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/vette73/compair.htm. General motors decided to go to a forged bottom end and 4 bolt mains @ 250 net HP@ 5200 rpm, 285 ft lbs of torque@ 4000 rpm and a 5600 RPM redline. A stroker crank puts more stress on the internals. For the price difference and the stroker cranks being chinese castings, I don't see any logic in going with less that the GM engineers would have given a similar or upgraded build. I know there are a lot that have gone with cast cranks and pistons and 2 bolt mains at double these power numbers and had them live but not me. Figure Zora might have had a reason for doing this and don't want to find out the hard way what it is. BTW The 73 is the highest HP L82 ever made. They went down in power from that point to a low of 205 HP in 1975 and GM still stayed with the forged bottom end and 4 bolt mains. If the cast cranks, pistons and 2 bolt mains would have been sufficiant they would have used them. Just my .02.
Last edited by 63mako; Mar 18, 2007 at 11:06 AM.
Reason: added information
Most stroker cranks are internally balanced these days. If given choice, forget about external balancing. Also, more good news. The newer stroker cranks require less if any block clearancing. Cast is fine for the street up to 6500 RPM and even more. But in a stroker, I'd definetely machine for four bolt mains and use studs. Fairly cheap insurance.
Good luck!
Excuse me!
This is my 396 block with the latest Eagle forged kit. This was a ZZ4 block that had the pan rails clearanced by GM, but you can clearly see the extra clearance needed for the rods. It is true that the Eagle stroker rods will clear a std base circle cam. This engine now contains main ARP studs, instead of the bolts. This is also a good thing.
If the cast cranks, pistons and 2 bolt mains would have been sufficiant they would have used them. Just my .02.
Pretty much what I'm thinking. I'm NOT a professional engine builder, just a mechanic trying finish my winter projects, so I can drive the vette in the spring. Right now I have a lot of faith in Zora Duntov's decisions, althou, I learn something new on this forum all the time. I hope Lars and/or other experienced engine builders will chime in on this subject.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You don't need a forged bottom end for mild small block buildup used on the street, get one of the Eagle or Scat cast kits and save yourself some money
I don't see any logic in going with less that the GM engineers would have given a similar or upgraded build. I know there are a lot that have gone with cast cranks and pistons and 2 bolt mains at double these power numbers and had them live but not me. Figure Zora might have had a reason for doing this and don't want to find out the hard way what it is.
I am not an engineer but have been building engines for over 30 years. I always try to follow the "better safe than sorry" philosophy. Seems like whenever I do see a failure, and haven't seen any of my builds die an untimely death (well 1. Dropped a valve at a 7500 rpm powershift). It is the weak link that breaks. I tend to overbuild my stuff. For example, you can buy full roller rockers from cat or proform for under $150. or Comp pro magnum for $300 or Crower for $450. I bought the comp cams for my most recent build. Certainly not the best but better than most. For $150 difference I don't want tiny rollers bouncing around in my motor. Same with the crank. Scat cast $200. 4340 Forged $500, Bryant or callies billet $2000 to $3000. Again the 4340 forged is not the best but with the bad rap the chinese cast cranks have gotten if I miss a gear at WOT I will feel more confident of it holding together with this. Rods and pistons same thing. Main studs and rod bolts same thing. Get my drift? The weak link always breaks first. Always
You don't need a forged bottom end for mild small block buildup used on the street, get one of the Eagle or Scat cast kits and save yourself some money
Motor head you are one of those that has used the cast crank with good success. The new build is a forged crank though, right?
I'm looking for a stroker crank for my 383 build this spring. I have narrowed it down to two brands Eagle or Scat. My question is do these cranks have the 3.75 stroke and 350 main journels? Are they internally balanced? If not does anyone make internally balanaced stroker cranks?
MotorHead, if you are using or are going to use a forged crank, how high an RPM are you looking to turn w/it? Also, are you going to use Cast/ Hyper, or Forged pistons?
Lars thanks for jumping in! With your experience, there is No doubt that you know what your talking about. Many poeple like to hear your take on things, myself included. At what RPM do you step up to forged PISTONS and forged CRANK? Again, I apologize to a Oldguard 7 for stepping on his thread. If for whatever reason there are no responses to this question, I will start new thread, and stop highjacking Oldguards. As 63Mako has posted, even an L82 has a forged rotating assembly. Many other high performance engines from the 60's and early 70's, also had forged components and had redlines AT OR LOWER than 6500 rpm. With todays modern head designs and newer cam profiles, its not that hard to match or exceed many of the old muscle car engines HP/rpm levels. If GM and (and other manufacturers) engineers saw a need to put the more expensive/stronger components in the high performance engines, as we duplicate or exceed there outputs, shouldn't we do the same? No disrespect intended to you in these questions. I will be the FIRST to admit that you have a FAR GREATER amount of experience than I do. Just looking for an honest answer/personal opinion on the subject. Thanks in advance.
You did not "step" on my thread, I have been watching this thread for the past 24 hours and everyone is making valid points. 63 mako and Lars both agree that the Eagle/Scat cast cranks cannot handle the stress a stroker crank places on the internals. There are many who have run these cranks and have not had any problems and there are also some who have. I cannot afford a forged unit right now. But 72 LT-1 also has a valid point. At what point do you use forged components? Im no metallurgist, but what is the difference in "Chinese steel" and "American steel"? Do the chinese take some shortcut in processing their steel? As far as I'm concerned steel is steel. If someone can show me the difference on how this country and the chinese make steel, I'm all ears. Id rather have an internally balanace crank as opposed to a externally balanced crank. Are they other internally balanced crank brands that have "American cast steel"?
I do not plan to run this engine past 6500 any way.
Thanks, but I'll pass. I hate ebay because it is an auction. If I cannot buy/afford it, I dont need it.
I bought my crank from AMS(American Machine Service) in Bossier City LA. They buy Eagle forgings and machine them in house. (See post 16) My machine shop operator and I were both very impressed with the quality. He said the machining tolerances were the best he had seen. It was under $500. I bought on Ebay but they have a website www.amsracing.com. Give them a call! Might have a cast internal balance unit available also.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by 72 LT1
MotorHead, if you are using or are going to use a forged crank, how high an RPM are you looking to turn w/it? Also, are you going to use Cast/ Hyper, or Forged pistons?
Here is my take on it and also the take of a very experienced engine builder who has built 1000+ race engines. For street / strip applications a good cast crank will work up to the 550HP. The main reason is this, the RPM's that the motor will see are very low. If it goes to the track it sees high RPM for a few seconds and that is it. It is blipped to 6500RPM for a second or two. There are more cast cranks at the strip than anyone would care to admit. Other stuff breaks before cast cranks snap in half.
If you are building a high RPM boat motor or circle track or whatever track racer that sees high sustained RPM's then you need a forged bottom end. Most of us don't need it.
MY new motor ( 427ci ) is going all forged including pistons, this motor will be built for 600HP/600TQ + and will see 7000 RPM
Just as a point; our hobby stock engines turn 7300rpm all day long with the original gm cast crank that is only balanced. From my experience cranks die from tq, rods from rpm. 500-600 ft/lbs is where it starts to become a real decision on changing over. The best example I have for you is a 406ci engine that we ran in a camero that we drag raced. It saw 6700rpm all day long with a cast crank and rods while hitting in the high 11's and did not expire on us over the course of two years. Is that the limit that we will run in that app, sure, but it illustrates the fact that a large portion of the hot rod community run parts that their engine and environment does not warrant. That's not a problem and it sure does reduce failures, but it should not be mistaken is what is required. If we were building the engine and it was clear that it was not going to be a starting platform for a semi-serious effort we would run a cast crank. Now if you have plans....that is a different story entirely!
Here is my take on it and also the take of a very experienced engine builder who has built 1000+ race engines. For street / strip applications a good cast crank will work up to the 550HP. The main reason is this, the RPM's that the motor will see are very low
Thanks for the response.
MY new motor ( 427ci ) is going all forged including pistons, this motor will be built for 600HP/600TQ + and will see 7000 RPM