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I'm using a pre-oiling tool and a 18V cordless drill. The driver side is fine, all rockers get oil after running the drill for about 4-5 seconds. There's no oil going to the passenger side rockers
I just installed the driver side valve cover and run the drill for about 30 seconds.... passenger side is still dry.
What's wrong ???
Edit: look at the fuel pump opening.... no oil - it's as dry as death valley....
Last edited by MYBAD79; Mar 17, 2007 at 10:59 PM.
Reason: added photo
Use a corded drill...something powerful with high RPM. Most low duty drills fall short of the speed and torque needed to oil an engine. I have burned up a small low duty drill doing just this.
Autozone and Oreilly both rent a tool specifically designed to prime an engine. They have the disc and seals to keep oil pressure high.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by MYBAD79
No, it's just a oil pump shaft extension without the discs or washers half way down the shaft....
let me guess..... one of these discs is supposed to seal off the hole and keep the oil down at the camshaft ???
I'm not exactly sure of the principle but I remember being stressed that I used that type of tool when I rebuilt my engine. Maybe helps create a little vacuum?
There are guys who have made a tool useing an older distributor.
There are guys who have made a tool useing an older distributor.
I used an old distributor. You need the housing or at least something to seal off the oil gallery down inside the block. Justing turning a shaft without blocking the oil gallery is no good.
I too don't think a battery drill is good enough. It takes alot of drill to turn over the oil pump.
About 20 yrs. ago I took an old dist. shaft (stock shaft only leaving the bottom sleeve and oil pump drive) and milled the top to chuck up in a 1/2 electric drill ( battery operated too slow ) and primed everything from BB's to my SB race motors . I can build 40# pressure and get oil to every rocker . I even use the drill with allen head to prime my external pump ( that I use now ) on the race car.
It may well take longer than 30 seconds to get oil everywhere, you should pre-oil for several minutes while turning the motor over a quarter turn or so every few seconds. That's why you need a powerful drill like a right-angle drill or hole-hog, you'll burn up a small drill motor, even a 110 volt one. And yes, the discs/washers are needed.
You need the other primer. It connects the rear and front oil passages. Look at your distributer, and you will see the groove that connects these passageways.
Thanks for the replies - I'm still a little confused here....
The battery drill that I have is made in China but it drives that oil pump so that I get oil to the driver side within a few seconds... not too shabby for a $40 HomeDepot product
Of course it won't drive the pump for 15 minutes but is does a good job for 1-2 minutes .... it's just odd that I only get oil to the rockers on one side of the engine.
I think the problem is that I need the disc that blocks the oil gallery, I'll go over to AdvanceAuto and see if they have that loaner tool. If they don't have that tool I'll stop at the junkyard and see if they have an old distributor
I definately want to see oil going to all rockers before I install the valve covers
You need the other primer. It connects the rear and front oil passages. Look at your distributer, and you will see the groove that connects these passageways.
i noticed the groove... and surprisingly enough, the same groove is on that pre-oiling tool....
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i'm surprised that you get oil that quickly up there......don't be surprised if it takes several minutes of priming to get it up to the other side and you do need to rotate the engine occasionally as you do this......i primed my engine for 20 minutes on three different times before i started it....that was probably overkill but i didn't want any screw ups.
i'm surprised that you get oil that quickly up there......don't be surprised if it takes several minutes of priming to get it up to the other side and you do need to rotate the engine occasionally as you do this......i primed my engine for 20 minutes on three different times before i started it....that was probably overkill but i didn't want any screw ups.
Hi Bob,
yes, I don't need any screw ups.... even if I kill my battery drill in the process..... I will have oil flowing to all rockers before I install this engine
nope... the groove is on that $20 tool that I did NOT buy...... this cheap bastard bought the $10 primimng tool that only extends the oil pump shaft.... it does not have the aluminum discs that Jughead shows on his photo (reply #1)
Just primed the engine in my '74 a few months back and actually used a homemade tool since I couldn't find one anywhere near by. I had the same issues it sounds like you are having where oil wasn't coming up one side so I was hesitant to start the engine in that state (I was also using an 18v DeWalt drill). I eventually just ran the drill until the battery went dead, and after a couple of minutes I finally started to see oil coming out of the rockers. So I guess my advice is to just prime the pump for as long as you can and as long as all the passages are clear, you'll see oil eventually. It just may take a while
Edit:
The tool that I made didn't seal anything off, it just sat in the slot on the oil pump and it still worked fine, so I don't think that's your problem. (My tool was made from an old long wood drill bit with the tip snapped off and a deep well socket welded together)
nope... the groove is on that $20 tool that I did NOT buy...... this cheap bastard bought the $10 primimng tool that only extends the oil pump shaft.... it does not have the aluminum discs that Jughead shows on his photo (reply #1)
I'll get an old distributor tomorrow ...
Go to Autozone and rent the right one for FREEEEEEEEEEE