Rear bearing setup troubles
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,443
Likes: 2
From: McDonough Georgia
Rear bearing setup troubles
I am rebuilding my trailing arms and ran into problems with my passenger side wheel bearing.I used a setup tool and got it at .004 end play tourqued,But when I put it on the t/a assembly I start snugging up the castle nut and the hub binds up without any real tourque on the castle nut.I took it back apart and everything seems okay.Put it back together and I get the same thing.I can't seem to figure it out.HELP!!!
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: Oak Ridge NC
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1229686&page=2
Here is a post by Gary (GTR1999). Pretty much a guru on this stuff.
Send him a PM or email, he can help you out.
Here is a post by Gary (GTR1999). Pretty much a guru on this stuff.
Send him a PM or email, he can help you out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
Thanks BBC.
I had this happen before I started to parallel grind the shims. I'm sure a lot of you are sick of me saying that but here is a good example of where a little extra work pays off. The spacers are not parallel and can cause a change from setup to spindle. I found the new spacers not much better and never really need to be replaced. I parallel grind the spacer then do the same with the shim to dial them in. I wouldn't do it any other way, but others do.
Now the question, did you press the bearings on the spindle or are you finding the change in just the setup tool? sounds like you did press them on and if you did you can't start popping them off and on. I give them one shot, if I have to remove the bearings afterwards I'll use new ones. It doen't taek much abuse to wreck new bearings and this is one way to wreck them- I know this for a fact!
If they are setup correct they will not bind up(unless it's from some of the arms I saw at Carlisle last year_LOL) The spindle will be snug but it should spin with one hand with slight drag from the grease and new seals. I would not use .004" even though it's in the middle of the spec range.
I had this happen before I started to parallel grind the shims. I'm sure a lot of you are sick of me saying that but here is a good example of where a little extra work pays off. The spacers are not parallel and can cause a change from setup to spindle. I found the new spacers not much better and never really need to be replaced. I parallel grind the spacer then do the same with the shim to dial them in. I wouldn't do it any other way, but others do.
Now the question, did you press the bearings on the spindle or are you finding the change in just the setup tool? sounds like you did press them on and if you did you can't start popping them off and on. I give them one shot, if I have to remove the bearings afterwards I'll use new ones. It doen't taek much abuse to wreck new bearings and this is one way to wreck them- I know this for a fact!
If they are setup correct they will not bind up(unless it's from some of the arms I saw at Carlisle last year_LOL) The spindle will be snug but it should spin with one hand with slight drag from the grease and new seals. I would not use .004" even though it's in the middle of the spec range.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
I'm not sure on that. I have found the spacers out both unmolested 40 year originals and new ones. Just about every GM spacer I grind is out.
Lets see what he finds out once he looks it over again. Some you can see by eye as they have a rough turned finish and you can see the shiney wear side.
Here are some that were out. See the upper part of the one on the right. The darker areas were high spots. There were out .005"
Here I'm checking one I ground~.0002"
Lets see what he finds out once he looks it over again. Some you can see by eye as they have a rough turned finish and you can see the shiney wear side.
Here are some that were out. See the upper part of the one on the right. The darker areas were high spots. There were out .005"
Here I'm checking one I ground~.0002"
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,443
Likes: 2
From: McDonough Georgia
Thanks BBC.
I had this happen before I started to parallel grind the shims. I'm sure a lot of you are sick of me saying that but here is a good example of where a little extra work pays off. The spacers are not parallel and can cause a change from setup to spindle. I found the new spacers not much better and never really need to be replaced. I parallel grind the spacer then do the same with the shim to dial them in. I wouldn't do it any other way, but others do.
Now the question, did you press the bearings on the spindle or are you finding the change in just the setup tool? sounds like you did press them on and if you did you can't start popping them off and on. I give them one shot, if I have to remove the bearings afterwards I'll use new ones. It doen't taek much abuse to wreck new bearings and this is one way to wreck them- I know this for a fact!
If they are setup correct they will not bind up(unless it's from some of the arms I saw at Carlisle last year_LOL) The spindle will be snug but it should spin with one hand with slight drag from the grease and new seals. I would not use .004" even though it's in the middle of the spec range.
I had this happen before I started to parallel grind the shims. I'm sure a lot of you are sick of me saying that but here is a good example of where a little extra work pays off. The spacers are not parallel and can cause a change from setup to spindle. I found the new spacers not much better and never really need to be replaced. I parallel grind the spacer then do the same with the shim to dial them in. I wouldn't do it any other way, but others do.
Now the question, did you press the bearings on the spindle or are you finding the change in just the setup tool? sounds like you did press them on and if you did you can't start popping them off and on. I give them one shot, if I have to remove the bearings afterwards I'll use new ones. It doen't taek much abuse to wreck new bearings and this is one way to wreck them- I know this for a fact!
If they are setup correct they will not bind up(unless it's from some of the arms I saw at Carlisle last year_LOL) The spindle will be snug but it should spin with one hand with slight drag from the grease and new seals. I would not use .004" even though it's in the middle of the spec range.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
I set my rear bearing jobs to .0015-.002" max. Set with spindle oil only until endplay is correct then grease in final assembly. The shims in the kits usually won't get you that close,but every job is different.
Use Timkens as well.
Good luck
Use Timkens as well.
Good luck
Last edited by GTR1999; Mar 18, 2007 at 01:22 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,443
Likes: 2
From: McDonough Georgia
I got some new bearings,set them up,had to grind a little from the shim and BAM!! .002 I said who's your daddy!!Went on the car with no binding,no problems.Thanks Guys!!!! 
Thanks GTR1999 you were a life saver.
Thanks GTR1999 you were a life saver.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I sent them UPS ground, the tracking number is around here somewhere. I think the receipt is out in my car. I wouldn't expect them for a day or two yet.