CORE C12-8P CS CHEV SML BLK AUSTEMPERED

I had one of those cheap pot metal cams once. Of all things the fuel pump lobe wore away. I called the guy called "Red" at comp cams. He told me to send it back and they would take a look and I wrongly thought that i would get a new cam. What they told me was I did not use the correct bronze tipped fuel pump rod. So along with me having to purchase a new cam they would throw in the bronze tip for free + my $380 roller cam. They sent it all right, with a COD for $18 UPS ground. So it was about $400 + the $21 to send my old bad cam back for them to tell me that they make junk pot metal cams.

If you have not recieved this cam - I would spend the few extra bucks and get the dist gear sleeved billet steel

 

I got the Cloyes two piece with integrated cam button. Kicker is you got to use their chain. Just put my new comp magnum double roller chain up in the parts for sale forum

Could be. The numbers look suprisingly similar to the crane numbers according to the previous post. The 114 LSA and a lot of the build specs were looking for smoother idle (will still rumble pretty good). better street manners and adjusting for my 1st gear ratio. (9 to 1 needs bottom end power to get good et's and pull well from idle or stop in street driving, especially with the lightweight flywheel and rotating assembly.) Mostly around town driving, car shows and occasional strip use, unless they kick me out.

I would but I already have the cam. I already bought the bronze gear for the distributor but then was told you need the bronze pump rod and gear only with the billet stuff not with the cast. My valve spring pressures are low but I have a high volume fuel pump. Might have been a combination of sustained high rpm's and high pressure on that lobe from a high volume fuel pump that caused your lobe failure. I will check back into this. The bronze tipped fuel pump rod would probably resolve this issue. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Hey George. Check this out. $134.00 http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code= The information on this page directly contradicts what the tech guy told me on the phone! http://www.compperformancegroupstore.../merchant.mvc? Time for a new thread.

 

I have the Crane billet timing set and I had to remove .040 or .060 from the Cloyes roller button face for clearance. then it was adjustable as advertised.


I was also thinking of drivability when i had my first 112 lc made


I would but I already have the cam. I already bought the bronze gear for the distributor but then was told you need the bronze pump rod and gear only with the billet stuff not with the cast. My valve spring pressures are low but I have a high volume fuel pump. Might have been a combination of sustained high rpm's and high pressure on that lobe from a high volume fuel pump that caused your lobe failure. I will check back into this. The bronze tipped fuel pump rod would probably resolve this issue. Thanks for the heads up.[/QUOTE]

The Bronze tip is on the their web site.

 

Think I will go with the cloyes hex-adjust timing set to avoid issues. Looks like a nice setup and should work well with their cover. Just bought a lightweight brass tipped comp fuel pushrod for 13.95 on e-bay.

 

 

Very nice looking setup....Reminds me of the one I am working on now. You are a little stouter on the bottom end though

Interesting cam specs. Mine is a littler higher lift, a little shorter in duration and a narrower lsa (.560/.560 230/230, 110) When do you hope to have it running? I would love to hear a sound clip when you do. Hopefully mine will be ready in about 3 weeks.


I have a recording studio so I will be posting some nice clips.

 

I have a .550/.550 with 236* duration on both I think. Not sure. Can't remember

And I definitely can't remember LSA

I have a video uploaded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx1v-eHzWI8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFMAnYf-z6s

 

Lookin' good Kevin. Slap that intake on and lets go
Bet your happy that engine is finally in YOUR hands.
Eddie

 

Kevin, which Hamburger pan did you choose? I've got the 1098 drag pan.

Dave

 

Mine is the 1088. I got the pan spreaders because of the bolts missing in the stroker cutouts. Seems like a pretty nice piece for the $. The pan spreader is hamburger part # 1188. Good option if you got a hamburger pan.

 

Man, that thing looks like it is going to fly just sitting there.

 

Very nice. There's an aluminum flywheel in my shed that's very depressed that it will not get to spend any time with it.

Now I'm off to the parts forum to see if the comp chain set is still available....

 

Nope, strange thing, You bought my nodular iron lightweight flywheel and the poster before you, dgruenke bought the comp timing set.
I ended up with a bobweight of 1685! and a 42# lightweight crank. Pretty lightweight rotating assembly for a 1000 HP capable 383 bottom end. The new flywheel is billet aluminum with a bronze insert, weight 12.5 LBS. Should rev pretty quick.

 

I have the 3047 pan, what is the pan spreader is it something to
span the distance on the bolts ?

 

Yes, They look like valve cover spreaders to equalize the clamp force on the pan to help avoid leaks from the missing bolts. Do a search on Hamburger 1188, that is the small block #. They are available for big block and small block.

 

Set the valves then rotated the engine over to set the rest. Got 5 lifters that stuck down! Set the rest and primed the engine. They pump up but will bleed down just pushing on the pushrod. WTF!!! My lifters are a little over 2 years old and I have stored them, unopened in the sealed box in the house. They were covered with a gummy substance when I opened the box. Looks like a protectant they put on them. Called Comp Cams and the tech said "our warrantee is 1 year from date of purchase" . I asked to talk to Red and explained my situation to him. He said 2 or 3 years ago the manufacturer of their lifters was using a protectant on the outside and inside the lifters and it turns into gummy crap after a couple years. They no longer use this protectant. He said the gum inside sticks the internal plungers in the lifter. "send them back and we will warrentee them even though they are over 2 years old." Easy for them but I got a rev kit, polylocks, stud girdle all to remove and reinstall. Guess it's better to find out now than later and Comp is standing up and doing the right thing!

 

Red is a good man, he and I got into it over who was to blame for wear on my Hi Tech roller rockers, he finally said, just send them in they have a lifetime warranty anyway

 

You guys seem like the right people to ask a couple questions about my new 383.

The motor is an L82 block with stock 76 cc heads, flat tops, a slightly lopy Comp hydraulic cam (can't remember lift and dur.) with a stealth intake and a new 750 holley carb. Basically a budget street motor for my daily driver.

Unfortunately, I had to have somebody else do all the work, and I am a bit unhappy. The guy who built the motor seems to have done a great job, but the guys who did the install and set-up turned out to be clueless I had to hook up the vacum advance, change secondary springs, make adjustments to the TV cable for my 700R and buy some new linkage pieces to replace their shoty fabrication (ouch) and disconnect my cruise control which was preventing full throtle. After all that, I have concerns about my timing and other tuning issues which I am a bit new to. The motor seems to be real strong, but want to get it perfect..... where should I start?

Oh, and down the road, I was thinking about a set of AFR 185's or 195's, which do yo think makes more sense?

 

AFR 195 eliminators are the way to go. For timing info check Barry K's post at the top of the C3 tech and performance page.