alignment question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
alignment question
I have a 79 here that I aligned with some second hand shop alignmentdevice that I bought. In the front I could get about 2.75 ° of caster with some 1.25 ° of negative camber and that was it, meaning that the shims on the front bolt of the upper A-arm where all removed and the shim stack on the rear was so massive, it would not take anything more.
Personally, I think the caster is a little on the small side and the camber on the big side, but due to the fact there is no room anymore on the bolts, there must be another reason.
On another forum someone said that collaps of the front crossmember was common on these C3 models and that it should be corrected with an offset A-arm-shaft. I'm a bit weary about using those offset shafts. Is there any other option, like for instance, pressing the spring towers apart with a purpuse built press ?
Thanks
Personally, I think the caster is a little on the small side and the camber on the big side, but due to the fact there is no room anymore on the bolts, there must be another reason.
On another forum someone said that collaps of the front crossmember was common on these C3 models and that it should be corrected with an offset A-arm-shaft. I'm a bit weary about using those offset shafts. Is there any other option, like for instance, pressing the spring towers apart with a purpuse built press ?
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I run homemade offset cross shafts. I added more positive camber into mine along with moving the bolt holes forward 1/4 inch.
This gave me more positive camber and caster readings in the 5's.
I fine tune with shims.
There is nothing wrong with getting a set of offset cross shafts.
This gave me more positive camber and caster readings in the 5's.
I fine tune with shims.
There is nothing wrong with getting a set of offset cross shafts.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I agree with the more castor but why would you want to run positive camber? I just installed a set of Vette brakes tubular offset upper control arms for more castor on mine. I also run a VB spreader bar to keep the towers in place. On an old frame like the C3s there is bound to be some sag and flex. This bar keeps the towers in place.
Here is a picture of the spreader bar.
Here is a picture of the spreader bar.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
I have a 79 here that I aligned with some second hand shop alignmentdevice that I bought.
Personally, I think the caster is a little on the small side and the camber on the big side, but due to the fact there is no room anymore on the bolts, there must be another reason.
On another forum someone said that collaps of the front crossmember was common on these C3 models and that it should be corrected with an offset A-arm-shaft. I'm a bit weary about using those offset shafts. Is there any other option, like for instance, pressing the spring towers apart with a purpuse built press ?
Thanks
Personally, I think the caster is a little on the small side and the camber on the big side, but due to the fact there is no room anymore on the bolts, there must be another reason.
On another forum someone said that collaps of the front crossmember was common on these C3 models and that it should be corrected with an offset A-arm-shaft. I'm a bit weary about using those offset shafts. Is there any other option, like for instance, pressing the spring towers apart with a purpuse built press ?
Thanks
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 895
Likes: 4
From: whitman massachusetts
Frame
Hi Belgian,
You do not say the type engine that your car is equipped with. I do not believe that frame sagging was a big issue with these cars, unless you are running a big block car. It is a fairly simple thing to check, if in doubt. The distance between the shock absorber towers should be exactly 26 3/8", measured from where the front A-arm stud protrudes through the shock absorber tower. It was the tremendous torque of the big blocks that would lead to the frame problem. If this measurement is correct, I would not worry about the offset shafts, your problem may be of another type.
You do not say the type engine that your car is equipped with. I do not believe that frame sagging was a big issue with these cars, unless you are running a big block car. It is a fairly simple thing to check, if in doubt. The distance between the shock absorber towers should be exactly 26 3/8", measured from where the front A-arm stud protrudes through the shock absorber tower. It was the tremendous torque of the big blocks that would lead to the frame problem. If this measurement is correct, I would not worry about the offset shafts, your problem may be of another type.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
This is not a big block and the small block is a lott lighter, since I use aluminum heads.
I checked the dimension you gave me and this is about exact, some 0.04" shorter.
I changed front springs to the VBP gymkhana equivalent, but I measured the heigth of the rockerpanel per AIM and this checks out fine. I also did not notice any problems with the A-arms or knuckle when assembling the suspension.
The tires are visualy leaning inward.
Don't know.
I checked the dimension you gave me and this is about exact, some 0.04" shorter.
I changed front springs to the VBP gymkhana equivalent, but I measured the heigth of the rockerpanel per AIM and this checks out fine. I also did not notice any problems with the A-arms or knuckle when assembling the suspension.
The tires are visualy leaning inward.
Don't know.