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I just ground my uppers flush last weekend and they still wouldn't pop out with a punch. Tight rivets I guess. Fastest way for me was to grind most off, drill a hole in the center, then punch them out.
I just ground my uppers flush last weekend and they still wouldn't pop out with a punch. Tight rivets I guess. Fastest way for me was to grind most off, drill a hole in the center, then punch them out.
Grind off the head, drill the shank, insert punch, SMACKO!
For uppers...drill em from the non-peened side (under a-arm) with a larger drill than the rivet shank diameter... The head will spin off once thru the head and then pop em out with a punch....NO damage to ball joint or A-arm.
I used a dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel, cut off the heads (on top of the arm), and shaved any remaining edges off. Then I smacked the ball joint stud on the concrete a few times till the ball joint pushed itself out.
Last time I had to do this job was in 1974 and I did it with a 5lb sledge and cold chisel. Took 20 minutes per rivet because I was a 123 pound sailor just out of boot camp.
A pnuematic chisel would have been wonderful. But hey, my arms got quite a workout!
cc
Last edited by CCrane65; Mar 26, 2007 at 11:25 PM.
Reason: sp
I used a dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel, cut off the heads (on top of the arm), and shaved any remaining edges off. Then I smacked the ball joint stud on the concrete a few times till the ball joint pushed itself out.
Good suggestion. My control arms are powder painted and I'd like to replace the ball joints without scratching the paint. Working on top of the ball joint should save the paint. (Using a power chisel on the bottom sounds like the fastest way, but it would scratch a lot of point. Oh...occassionally when I've scratched powderpainted surfaces, using POR15 to touch up the scratch has worked pretty good.)