Broken lug stud...help!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Broken lug stud...help!
Hey gang. Well I've got a broken front lug stud on my 1980. Not being the greatest mechanic, I took off the wheel, pondered the situation for a while then came to the conclusion that I dont have the faintest idea on how to replace it. I'm more than willing to take a shot at it, in fact I'll probably replace all 5 while I'm at it. But I could sure use some advice and guideance. Thanks for any suggestions you can toss my way.
VEGASMARK
VEGASMARK
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 2
From: Melrose Florida
Mark,
I'd suggest only fixing the broken one...
Here's how: Knock the old one out with a hammer (and a punch if you need).
Buy a replacement, try a NAPA or a Corvette shop for the right one.
Insert it from the back, it will get stuck at the knurling, with a few threads sticking all the way through.
Put a lug nut on it, and tighten it as it pulls through. You might need some washers (or a larger nut) to slip over the threads as it pulls through. Tighten it this way until it is pulled as far as it will go (rear "lip" tight against spindle.
Reinstall wheel, have fun.
Steve
I'd suggest only fixing the broken one...
Here's how: Knock the old one out with a hammer (and a punch if you need).
Buy a replacement, try a NAPA or a Corvette shop for the right one.
Insert it from the back, it will get stuck at the knurling, with a few threads sticking all the way through.
Put a lug nut on it, and tighten it as it pulls through. You might need some washers (or a larger nut) to slip over the threads as it pulls through. Tighten it this way until it is pulled as far as it will go (rear "lip" tight against spindle.
Reinstall wheel, have fun.
Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I'd replace all - there's no reason to believe that the remaining 19 studs are any better than the one that broke.....they're all the same age...
I'm pretty sure that the front ones can be replaced with the rotor and calipper in place, you have to rotate the rotor until you find a position that allows pushing the stud out towards the back of the rotor.
If you're installing the stock size (7/16") you don't need to drill.
have a look here for more info and photos:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1647067
I'm pretty sure that the front ones can be replaced with the rotor and calipper in place, you have to rotate the rotor until you find a position that allows pushing the stud out towards the back of the rotor.
If you're installing the stock size (7/16") you don't need to drill.
have a look here for more info and photos:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1647067
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Safest proceedure is to remove the rotor and drive the out stud out with a big hammer, and drive a new one in with the same hammer. This will seat the new stud all the way. By trying to pull it in, it will never seat properly. Normally all that needs replacing is the broken stud.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Ocala FL
Mark,
I'd suggest only fixing the broken one...
Here's how: Knock the old one out with a hammer (and a punch if you need).
Buy a replacement, try a NAPA or a Corvette shop for the right one.
Insert it from the back, it will get stuck at the knurling, with a few threads sticking all the way through.
Put a lug nut on it, and tighten it as it pulls through. You might need some washers (or a larger nut) to slip over the threads as it pulls through. Tighten it this way until it is pulled as far as it will go (rear "lip" tight against spindle.
Reinstall wheel, have fun.
Steve
I'd suggest only fixing the broken one...
Here's how: Knock the old one out with a hammer (and a punch if you need).
Buy a replacement, try a NAPA or a Corvette shop for the right one.
Insert it from the back, it will get stuck at the knurling, with a few threads sticking all the way through.
Put a lug nut on it, and tighten it as it pulls through. You might need some washers (or a larger nut) to slip over the threads as it pulls through. Tighten it this way until it is pulled as far as it will go (rear "lip" tight against spindle.
Reinstall wheel, have fun.
Steve
I broke a new stud doing it that way a couple of years ago. The last time I broke a stud I remove the rotor and took it with me to Napa. they pressed the old one out and the new one in for no charge. It took less than a minute.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Safest proceedure is to remove the rotor and drive the out stud out with a big hammer, and drive a new one in with the same hammer. This will seat the new stud all the way. By trying to pull it in, it will never seat properly. Normally all that needs replacing is the broken stud.
Pressing in with a press is best, hammer is fine if no access.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
When the stud's collar is tight against the back side of the hub then the stud is in all the way and won't go any further, no matter if you use a press or a nut to pull it in.... if the stud breaks when pulling it in with a nut then either the hole was too small for the knurl or the stud was of very bad quality 
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
The rotor lays ontop of the hub. The studs are in the hub. Its confusing when you say you took the rotor to Napa. The rotor has nothing to do with the studs. You would have to take the entire hub to Napa, then repack the bearings and install.
I would recommend not using a hammer as you could damage the bearings by smacking them around.
If you look at my thread that MyBad posted, you can go to napa, buy new quality studs and rent a ball joint press from them and go about repeating what I did. Its rather easy if you have stock dimension studs and an air compressor. Maybe half hour / 45 minutes for all five.
Everyone one of my studs came in perfectly straight and flush with the back of the hub, no issues using the lug nut to pull thru. If your using quality studs you shouldn't have any issues.
I do however agree that when upgrading your studs to a larger size it is much easier to remove the hubs on both front and rear and use a drill press to enlarge the holes and a press to push the studs back in.
Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Ocala FL
You can do this on the car. Without removing the front spindle.
The rotor lays ontop of the hub. The studs are in the hub. Its confusing when you say you took the rotor to Napa. The rotor has nothing to do with the studs. You would have to take the entire hub to Napa, then repack the bearings and install.
I would recommend not using a hammer as you could damage the bearings by smacking them around.
If you look at my thread that MyBad posted, you can go to napa, buy new quality studs and rent a ball joint press from them and go about repeating what I did. Its rather easy if you have stock dimension studs and an air compressor. Maybe half hour / 45 minutes for all five.
Everyone one of my studs came in perfectly straight and flush with the back of the hub, no issues using the lug nut to pull thru. If your using quality studs you shouldn't have any issues.
I do however agree that when upgrading your studs to a larger size it is much easier to remove the hubs on both front and rear and use a drill press to enlarge the holes and a press to push the studs back in.
Good luck.
The rotor lays ontop of the hub. The studs are in the hub. Its confusing when you say you took the rotor to Napa. The rotor has nothing to do with the studs. You would have to take the entire hub to Napa, then repack the bearings and install.
I would recommend not using a hammer as you could damage the bearings by smacking them around.
If you look at my thread that MyBad posted, you can go to napa, buy new quality studs and rent a ball joint press from them and go about repeating what I did. Its rather easy if you have stock dimension studs and an air compressor. Maybe half hour / 45 minutes for all five.
Everyone one of my studs came in perfectly straight and flush with the back of the hub, no issues using the lug nut to pull thru. If your using quality studs you shouldn't have any issues.
I do however agree that when upgrading your studs to a larger size it is much easier to remove the hubs on both front and rear and use a drill press to enlarge the holes and a press to push the studs back in.
Good luck.
On my wife's minivan I used my BIG C clamp and a deep well socket to press a stud in. Not difficult at all.
The big C clamp comes in handy for compressing caliper pistons when changing brake pads on my Brit cars too.
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
I did this a couple of months ago on my 75 i did not have to remove anything on the front just pop out the old studs and install the new ones. You will have to find the slot to do it. The rear I had to cut a slot in the dust sheild and remove the rotor and caliper. All in all it was very easy.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 809
Likes: 1
From: Mass
I am going to replace the studs on the front pass and drivers rear, is there a certain size i need? http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=611
would those work?
Sorry to thread jack
would those work?
Sorry to thread jack
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
I am going to replace the studs on the front pass and drivers rear, is there a certain size i need? http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=611
would those work? Sorry to thread jack
would those work? Sorry to thread jack
You need wheel studs.
Stock studs are 7/16-20 x 1.918 overall length.
You can get replacements at any general auto store.
You can also upgrade to better quality 7/16 studs like Moroso ARP from summit or jegs. Just be careful of knurl size. You want press in's, not screw-in's.
If you plan on running spacers not adapters then you might want to upgrade to longer studs too.
As long as you stick with 7/16 studs you won't have to drill the hubs, just press old studs out and pull new ones in.
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; Mar 29, 2007 at 07:30 PM.
