I am just curious as to why you shortened that alignment tool.

 

Binnie, Keisler shortens the tool because of the lack of room when installing the the TKO, bellhousing, clutch disk and pressure plate at the same time. It has to be done that way to if you want to avoid cutting the crossmember when installing a TKO. It's a 3-ring circus but it actually works.

 

OK! How about next Wednesday?

 

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. It's hard to tell for certain from the picture but is the front bearing retainer coming in contact with the register hole on the bell at this point or are you not that close to it? The front retainer should measure 4.683" as should the register hole in the bellhousing. I have had guys tell me that it was extremely tight getting them to mate up. Maybe something to look at?
Let me know. I'll be watching the forum over the weekend off and on, if you need me, post or PM me.

Richard

 

Richard, we're OK in that respect. It fit the TKO fine during the early part of the install when you have to rotate the bellhousing 180 degrees to clear the flywheel. I've got to work this weekend but should be able to get back to it next Weds. I'll let everybody know how it went.

 

That will work for me.

 

Midwest Vette came over today to give me a hand. I had bought another plastic clutch alignment tool earlier. I first installed it into the splines of the clutch disc. I was surprised at the amount of slop present. I then installed the tip of the tool into the roller pilot bearing. Again I was disappointed at the amount of slop. Personally, I don't think they do a good job of precisely aligning the clutch disc to the centerline of the roller pilot bearing. Anyway, I cut this one off at 3" as opposed to the other one which I had cut at 2 5/8". With the tool fully bottomed in the pilot bearing, it brought the tool flush with the trans end of the clutch disc splines for max support. With this setup, I could still move the clutch disc 1/4" side to side thanks to the sloppy plastic tool. I ended up centering the clutch disc by moving the disc until it was an equal distance from each of the pressure plate bolt down holes, then marking the circumforence of the disc with a sharpie pen onto the flywheel. I then bolted up the pressure plate making sure the clutch disc stayed centered using the penned circle as a reference. With Midwest Vette pushing the trans, me rotating the trans on it's axis we got it to within 5/8" of closure. I had my boy step on the clutch pedal and the trans slammed home! I believe that in the earlier attempts, the sloppy plastic alignment tool wasn't centering the clutch disc properly. Probably as mentioned earlier, a cut down old muncie input shaft would probably do a much better job. Anyway, thanks for all the input. And Midwest Vette, thanks for the help.

 

Charles, Just noticed your post. Wish I would have noticed it earlier, cause I experienced that very problem when I first tried using the plastic alignment tool. Of course I had to throw in they towel and cut the crossmember for other reasons. No way I was going to fit it in with the large flanges on my scatter shield. Have you finished the installation? How's your tail shaft yoke to tunnel clearance?

Bullshark

 

Hi Bob,

No I haven't finished the installation yet, we just got as far as bolting the trans in today. This is a major achievement for me! Remember, this was the Keisler kit that sat on the workbench for 2 years!
I should have attended more Sharks Tech sessions, I could have quizzed you about your install and learned about the that problematic plastic install tool.
As far as the tailshaft yoke, after reading about the clearance issues on some of the C3's on CF, I sent the 1330 series yoke back to Keisler and exchanged it for a 1310 series yoke. Believe me, it killed me to do so because that was one pretty piece! But Richard at Keisler assures that the 1310 yoke with the solid Spicer will handle anything I can throw at it. Hope to see ya soon. CHarles

 

I had a similar problem, fought it for Hours trying every trick . The bell housing was about the same distance from seating as you show in the Pic. The engine was hanging above the motor mount location and I noticed the engine wasnt level above the Motor mounts by a half inch or so. Turned out the front passenger side Jack stand wasnt supporting that corner and the engine compartment was sagging an inch. The transshaft was hanging up right at the roller pilot bearing hole. I jacked the sagging side of the car up a few inches and the trans shaft slipped fully into the pilot hole..

 

[QUOTE=Mako72;1559764608] Anyway, I cut this one off at 3" as opposed to the other one which I had cut at 2 5/8". QUOTE]

I'm a little dense, but why do you cut the tool shorter? Keisler included a plastic splined tool with a nice round ring on the back to insert it with ease.

I just installed the clutch and pressure plate with a few bolts not even tightened and stick the alingment toll in the center of the clutch disk. Then hit all the bolts with my butterfly air gun

 

[QUOTE=gkull;1559770321]I think you get that tool with any clutch kit....

 

[QUOTE=MYBAD79;1559770464]So why would you cut it shorter? How could it align anything without the ring handle to hold on to?

 

[QUOTE=gkull;1559770667]Don't know... I didn't cut mine....

 

[QUOTE=gkull;1559770667]I initially cut mine because the Keisler instructions recommended it and It seemed logical that by doing that, it would provide the most access room to maneuver. Turned out for me with a BB and the scattershield, it still wasn't enough.
As to "How could it align anything?"....... It couldn't, that was the point

Bullshark

 

[QUOTE=MYBAD79;1559770692]I did not cut mine either. I decided to give it a try first.
There's not much space to work in, however you can use the tool without cutting it.

Barry

 

[QUOTE=gkull;1559770321]
GK, My Keisler kit is 2 years old, I bought it during the CF group buy. For what ever reason, my kit didn't come with the clutch alignment tool. I'm sure Keisler would have sent me one, but instead I went to Advance and bought a Dorman brand plastic alignment tool and cut it down as I was in a hurry. In my Keisler supplied instructions, they call for cutting the tool down so that it will make the 90 degree turn into the clutch disc. I suspect you have a removeable crossmember? I don't. Like I stated, I split the difference on the first tool and cut it at 2 5/8". Second time around, I cut it at 3". Didn't make much difference, the clutch disc still moved around becauseof the sloppy fit. Maybe the Keisler supplied plastic alignment tool you got is another brand rather than Dorman and fits tighter?

 

[QUOTE=Barry's70LT1;1559771557]
Barry, here's a picture from Keisler's instructions calling to cut the tool. Using a full length tool would have been too tight in my application.

 

Am I missing something here? What is in the way and keeping you guys from using the entire tool???

 

I mated my new TKO-600 and engine last week (out of the car).

Yes it was a bugger getting the last 5/8". I also used a new roller bearing and had checked the bellhousing alignment (was .003").

I did use the tranny bolts to pull it in - BUT - I snugged up all the bolts - SNUG but no real pressure, then wiggled the tranny from the tail, SNUGed the bolts up again, wiggled again, snuged again... Did not take long.

Went in easily w/o any fear of messing up the case.

Your mileage will vary.

BTW, the top right bolt is in a nasty spot out of the car.