poly body mounts
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Thanks again Dan. I saved that pic for future reference, very nice picture!
Matt, I am trying exactly that, but not sure how far I'm going to get. I know I can get the back two done (#4's). I can tell you though, this is taking me a lot of time due to rust. I am having to replace both of the rear steel cage/supports as they were virtually gone.
Yesterday, I spent about 2 hours trying to get the #4 bolt out after soaking it in penetrating lube for a week. No go. I had to finally grind the head off of the bolt with a hand grinder and cutting wheel, probably should have just done this in the first place and saved time.
Today, I am working on the rear #4 and had to weld a patch plate into the FRAME mount (with a 1 1/8" hole) due to rust on the frame mount even. It actually turned out pretty well considering what I had to work with (couldn't grind out the back as well as I would have liked if it was off the frame, so the welds got rough along the back. I'll construction poly adhesive glue and rivet the cage/support ($40ish ea. from Ecklers) and then finally put the bushing and bolt in. Next is the left side. This is very time consuming, but not much I can do but go forward.
Matt, I am trying exactly that, but not sure how far I'm going to get. I know I can get the back two done (#4's). I can tell you though, this is taking me a lot of time due to rust. I am having to replace both of the rear steel cage/supports as they were virtually gone.
Yesterday, I spent about 2 hours trying to get the #4 bolt out after soaking it in penetrating lube for a week. No go. I had to finally grind the head off of the bolt with a hand grinder and cutting wheel, probably should have just done this in the first place and saved time.
Today, I am working on the rear #4 and had to weld a patch plate into the FRAME mount (with a 1 1/8" hole) due to rust on the frame mount even. It actually turned out pretty well considering what I had to work with (couldn't grind out the back as well as I would have liked if it was off the frame, so the welds got rough along the back. I'll construction poly adhesive glue and rivet the cage/support ($40ish ea. from Ecklers) and then finally put the bushing and bolt in. Next is the left side. This is very time consuming, but not much I can do but go forward.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Joplin Missouri
that looks familiar, here's what I did with mine:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1385300
The hole is actually supposed to be 1 3/16", but 1 1/8" turned out to be perfect.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1385300
The hole is actually supposed to be 1 3/16", but 1 1/8" turned out to be perfect.
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,015
Likes: 2,260
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
I'm sure Poly's are fine...but why do people want them so bad? I purposely used the stock rubber type on my '67. I figured that with the way a convertible twists and the way I would be using it..having the body and frame able to move a little would save cracks and stuff. Now Poly is better than some of the solid aluminum ones C-3's had for sure.
I can tell you they've been there about 8 years now since I did the body off deal..and you can see how I play with it. Not a stress crack one...and the paint was done over 10 years ago.
JIM
I can tell you they've been there about 8 years now since I did the body off deal..and you can see how I play with it. Not a stress crack one...and the paint was done over 10 years ago.
JIM
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Poly won't crack, collapse and disintegrate - which is probably going to cause more body damage over time than a touch of extra flexing. I just got a set of OLD VB&P adjustable strut rods, and the poly bushings are showing no signs of decay or wear.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Thats what mine look like now. I just squirted a dab on silicon on them to help them slide in. Ive got glassed in front and rear bumpers so a body off is a no go. Where would you jact the body up on for the # 3 mount? the only place I could find wason the very front of the rear quarter, but it doesnt look to sturdy.
Thanks
Thanks
I have glassed in front and rear bumpers too and a set of poly body mounts to install this summer, so I have the same question.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Working on #3 now, taking forever to get the bolt out, lots of penetrating oil and a click at a time with a ratchet and a cheater bar...Hope I can get both #3's out, these seem to be the toughest to access yet.
