temperature sending unit
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 872
Likes: 3
From: Cortlandt Manor New York
The Lectric Limited unit is dead on and works well. I did not use sealant or tape and it worked fine. When I removed it I lost less than a quart of fluid nothing a mop can't handle.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Temp Sender Problem
Newbie piggy backing alert!
My gauge is reading very low (just above 100 deg.). I have replaced the thermostat and cleaned the sender and connection. I tried grounding the connector for the sender directly to the negative terminal of my battery and could only get a reading of about 225 (not full scale like I thought it would do). I have taken temp reading with a gun all over the engine and radiator and of course get different temps. My questions are:
Where is the best (most idicative) place to get an accurate water temp with a gun?
Should my gauge go full scale if properly grounded & where is the best place to ground?
Can you test a sending unit (boiling water)?
Can you recalibrate the gauge?
Thank you in advance.
My gauge is reading very low (just above 100 deg.). I have replaced the thermostat and cleaned the sender and connection. I tried grounding the connector for the sender directly to the negative terminal of my battery and could only get a reading of about 225 (not full scale like I thought it would do). I have taken temp reading with a gun all over the engine and radiator and of course get different temps. My questions are:
Where is the best (most idicative) place to get an accurate water temp with a gun?
Should my gauge go full scale if properly grounded & where is the best place to ground?
Can you test a sending unit (boiling water)?
Can you recalibrate the gauge?
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Lonestar One; Apr 13, 2007 at 10:17 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
1)Ideally you should take the readings near the sender if you want comparative info.
2)Only getting 225??? what are you expecting?
3)You cannot recal the gauge
4) If you are getting diff readings depending on where you ground, You have a grounding problem. Sounds a bit high but closer to correct than 100+. Check your ground straps going to you engine as well.
Oh, where you do use the gun, make sure that area is shielded from as much air movement from the fan as possible. That alone could drop the temp 50 degrees+.
2)Only getting 225??? what are you expecting?
3)You cannot recal the gauge
4) If you are getting diff readings depending on where you ground, You have a grounding problem. Sounds a bit high but closer to correct than 100+. Check your ground straps going to you engine as well.
Oh, where you do use the gun, make sure that area is shielded from as much air movement from the fan as possible. That alone could drop the temp 50 degrees+.
Last edited by KJL; Apr 13, 2007 at 01:11 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
i agree with 1), but i've had trouble getting good readings with a gun and with the sending unit in the head, so in that case shoot the thermostat housing. i was using a $100 gun, a $1000 gun may have worked. when the thermostat is working, engine fully warm, the reading at the housing should be very close to the thermostat setting. then look at your gauge reading. it will be higher, but close.
you can use an ohm meter to check the sensor (out of the car first); i think i saw somehwere on the net ohm values for ambient and boiling. i'm pretty sure that the more resistance, the higher the temp reading on the gauge. old wiring will have more resistance too. i agree with 3) too, you can't recal gauge; you could add resistance, but nobody does, and that also may be the problem. based on this, i think gauge would go full scale when grounded. don't have any notes in front of me, if wrong, someone please correct. thx
you can use an ohm meter to check the sensor (out of the car first); i think i saw somehwere on the net ohm values for ambient and boiling. i'm pretty sure that the more resistance, the higher the temp reading on the gauge. old wiring will have more resistance too. i agree with 3) too, you can't recal gauge; you could add resistance, but nobody does, and that also may be the problem. based on this, i think gauge would go full scale when grounded. don't have any notes in front of me, if wrong, someone please correct. thx
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Thanks for the reply. I expected the gauge to go full scale (250) with the gauge grounded directly to the battery. Instead of one mark shy (about 225). I just don't know if it is a bad gauge or temp sender or both. Maybe I'm not getting hot enough to begin with. Doubt it. Thanks again.
Last edited by Lonestar One; Apr 13, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
reference to NPT threads from ASME B1.20.1:
1.3 Sealing
1.3.1 Where pressure-tight joints are required, it is
intended that taper pipe threads conforming to this
Standard be made up wrench-tight with a sealant.
To prevent galling on certain piping materials such as
stainless steels, the sealant usually contains a lubricant.
1.3.2 Pipe threads designed for pressure-tight
joints that may be used without sealing compounds
(Dryseal Threads) are covered in ANSI B1.20.3 (Inch)
and ANSI Bl.20.4 (Metric Translation).
1.3 Sealing
1.3.1 Where pressure-tight joints are required, it is
intended that taper pipe threads conforming to this
Standard be made up wrench-tight with a sealant.
To prevent galling on certain piping materials such as
stainless steels, the sealant usually contains a lubricant.
1.3.2 Pipe threads designed for pressure-tight
joints that may be used without sealing compounds
(Dryseal Threads) are covered in ANSI B1.20.3 (Inch)
and ANSI Bl.20.4 (Metric Translation).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
From: Loveland Colo
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
sorry 'bout that JPhil, i looked back in this thread and didn't see where you posted three times.
i posted because i ran across the actual text from the national standard regarding how the NPT threads are to be made specifically with respect to sealing. it is called B1.20.1 and is published by ASME.
it looks like your post references Wikopedia which references the same standard, but does not include the text under the heading 1.3 Sealing. i'm not sure, but i assume we are in agreement on the content.
i posted because i ran across the actual text from the national standard regarding how the NPT threads are to be made specifically with respect to sealing. it is called B1.20.1 and is published by ASME.
it looks like your post references Wikopedia which references the same standard, but does not include the text under the heading 1.3 Sealing. i'm not sure, but i assume we are in agreement on the content.
