63mako

You have a hole in the valve cover with a hose that runs to the air cleaner base with no baffles and no PCV valve. You are sucking oil droplets that bounce off your rockers and vaporized oil right into the carb. That is why you have oil pooling in the intake. You HAVE to have baffled covers and a correct PCV system. If the rings were bad there is no way you could have oil in the intake manifold. It is a PCV issue. I am positive.

Big2Bird

BUT, the only way a bad PCV system could suck that much oil is if he had so much blow by that the rings are missing, wrong, upside down, not clocked, something.

Unless of course the pcv intake is hooked to the drain plug.

Greg

You have a good point. This should be pretty easy to check. The throttle plate should show evidence of oil and if you have oil that high you know this is the problem.
Just remove the hose from the air cleaner. Run a breather on both valve covers and see if your problem clears up.

63mako

Did you ever adjust the lifters while the car is running? Oil is flying everywhere!! That is at idle. Now rev it to crusing speed or 5000 RPM and stick a large hose in the cover hooked directly to the carb vacumn (air cleaner) with a breather on the other side to allow it to suck full vacumn out of the valve cover with no PCV restriction and no baffle. That IS the problem!!! Greg has a good point on checking this.

Big2Bird

I believe two or so threads ago he tried this and still had the problem.

mbeeman350

I was pressed for time that's why I had somone else put the short block together....looks like I didn't save much time now!!!

Yeah ....I need to take it out....just procrastinating.... still pizzed off...looking for the easy way out

mbeeman350

Yeah I did....took the tube off the ac base, a while back let it idle. Might try it again and put a few miles on the car to clear all the oil out of the intake and runners.
What a deal. I have spent $1,000 for another set of TF heads. looking back the Pro Comps were really OK. $150 on a another new intake, $100 for gaskets...plus a new carb $350, countless hours studying the problem, countless hours of lost sleep.

But most of all countless hours here on the forum taxing everyones knowledge and patience. If I haven't said it lateley ..thanks to everyone for their time and advice Mark

King Lear

I agree with the PCV problem. Did you put on a high volume/pressure oil pump with the rebuild that might be forcing more oil by the rings taking them longer to seat? What is the oil pressure reading at idle and at operating rpm's?

My old 350, I put in a Melling M55HV pump and started having oil consumption and leak problems, took it out and put the standard volume pump back in and problems went away again. The M55HV was reading alomst 70psi at idle and was buried at 70+psi as soon as I came off idle.

Thmprr

Whatever oil pump should have no effect on oil consumption unless there is gross bypass causing foaming of the pan contents.
In my experience, the fact that valve cover baffles do not exist would not cause this amount of oil consumption. If there is so much oil upstairs that it is being sucked into the air filter/intake manifold, shows a basic oil control issue with the ring package which is causing crankcase over pressurisation.
For example, I have a customer who has a street driven 502ci 630 hp big block and fitted with low tension rings, yet we have no blowby issues even with a non baffled valve cover mounted K&N breather on each valve cover. Does not even have a oil film surrounding the breathers.

Sorry to say, the advice that Big2Bird gave is your best advice or better still get someone else who really knows what to do.
Believe me, I only use Mahle rings now, never had a failure. The guy who taught me to engine build said "the rings will have sealed by the time you lash all the valves".
By the way, the advice about keeping the present engine is good. Crate motors are loosely toleranced.

mbeeman350

I used a standard Melling pump, stock pan, have 25 lbs psi in gear at idle with Vavolene 10-30

63mako

Well, You already spent a lot of time and $$$. Try setting it up with your old valve covers with baffles, Change out the rockers with your originals so you can fit them on, Put a stock configuration PCV setup in it, and drive it another 100 miles or so before you take the engine out and tear it apart. You have a lot of vacumn sucking at that big hose in the valve cover with NO baffle. It will suck in a lot more oil than you would think. Also your rings can't seat if you are sucking oil into the upper cylinder through the carb. The combination of the two could very well be the issue. It's worth a shot right? Only take a couple hours and a $10 set of VC gaskets to eliminate this as your problem. I pulled a good motor and replaced it when I was 16 because it smoked. I found out I had a bad PCV valve after intalling the new motor and IT smoked. Replaced the valve, no smoke.

King Lear

I have proform 1.6 rollers on mine and I have the billet specialties tall valve covers with a baffled breather in one and a baffled pcv valve going to the carb in the other and have no clearance problems I have 543/.563 lift. You might want to try them or I have my Comp Cam Magnum roller tip 1.52 rockers with only about 1000 miles on them. I will sell them to you if you want.

King Lear

More like what didn't!
I got it up in there air after he put the new heads on. I found 4 oil leaks,
First he had the motor mount bolt so long it went into the fuel pump which loosened the mounting plate at the bottom which leaked oil, so I cut the bolt tightend the bolt with RTV added to them, problem 1 fixed.

Then the oil pan was leaking at the front, rear and starter side. Took the pan off the gasket was so tight it cracked down the middle. He cut up the inside of the stock pan to run with the 3.75 stroke crank. So I replaced it with a Hamburger with baffles, crank scraper, windage tray.

Also the last 1/4-20 bolt in the rear by the starter was loose and wet. So I took the stud out and coolant came out everywhere. So he had drilled all the way to the water passage and just threaded a stud in there to plug it and use as a pan stud. At this point I was going to drive to his house and beat him to death but that still wouldn't fix my car and cost me more money for a lawyer. So I decided to fix it myself.

So I threaded a 5/16-18 set screw in with JB weld for thread sealer then I used JB puddy to fill in the hole completey and leveled it to the block. Then I created a new 1/4-20 about 3/4" away and matched the pan, block and gasket to it. So no more pan leak or coolant drip.

Took it out for a spin started seeing oil drip from the starter, the rear of the intake was leaking, he used the cheap black RTV and a section of it blew out. Since I have the intake off, I have seen he used a stock gasket and the intake runners were to short on both ends. So instead of putting the right gasket on, he just put a bunch of RTV at the top and bottoms of the intake runners to make up for the small gasket. Which needless to say was sucking oil in from the lifters to the CC.

This from a 30 some year engine builder and semi pro IHRA drag racer. I guess if it's not his engine he's working on he just doesn't give a ****.

Anyway, I am reasonbly sure after I get the new correct sized gasket on tomorrow night I will have eliminated my engine problems. If not then I will fix it myself but I am definately done with him.
Sorry for the lengthy post but that covered all of it.
Rich

Little Mouse

Mbeeman350
Seems like if you were sucking so much oil out of the valve cover
that its in the intake manifold and head runners there would be some traces of oil in the lower air cleaner base at least some oil film.
Are you sure without a doubt the intake gasket was sealed to the
head at the bottom of the heads runners. are you trying to run a
head using a 1205 felpro gasket with the smaller performer intake
that uses a little shorter height on its intake runner. if you cut your perfomer manifold that already has shorter runner height you could have caused more problem with seal.

King Lear

no its the rpm air gap no cutting, it wasn't sealded at the bottom at all, you could put a quarter under the intake gasket at the lower runner on the head, he used a stock gasket, not the 1205 the head called for. I now have the 1205 and everything seems to line up good.

Little Mouse

It was for mbeeman350 I did not put his deal on it tell last minute
thought it might creat confusion.

King Lear

Ah, I understand now

happiedazs

Greg

If I rebuild my 75 L-82 and tell the machine shop NOT to deck the block, won't there be a problem with the seal between the block and the heads? ---- Or is there some kind of gasget to solve this problem?

Thanks

Rudy

jackson

The block may not need to be decked ... you cannot know without first removing heads and having block's decks visually inspected & measured by a pro ... it's quite likely the decks are ok.

Some shops' equipment permits them to deck block without cutting stamp ID pad ... you have to ask ... stay on top of them ... & get it in writing what penalty they'll pay if they cut on the pad. It is more hassle but it is doable.