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Converting to HEI help needed.....

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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 04:25 PM
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Default Converting to HEI help needed.....

Long gone is the label I put on the hot wire to the old coil when I snatched the old boat anchor motor. Question is this - Can't I just use any hot wire (with ign on) that's coming through the firewall?
Thanks.
SP
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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Yes, as long as the belts line up. (sorry, can't help myself).
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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That just hurts.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Sorry Sperks. Ya gotta laugh at it. I almost burned my wife's twice before I finished. My neighbor used to set out his gas can when I worked on it as a joke.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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make sure the wire gauge is correct, there shouldn't be too many wires in the harness there, look for a red one with a white stripe.....thats what it looks like what they hooked up on my 69 to an hei set up
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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To do this correctly you need to trace the resistor wire back to the bulkhead connector and replace it with a 10 gauge wire. The coil wire is a non-fused circuit and independent of all other key-on power.
Mike
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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so what did you wind up doing?
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
To do this correctly you need to trace the resistor wire back to the bulkhead connector and replace it with a 10 gauge wire. The coil wire is a non-fused circuit and independent of all other key-on power.
Mike
If u don't bypass the resistor wire the coil will run on lower voltage and have reduced output. But i recall the '68 had a ballast resistor which is very easy to bypass - just short it out.
Yep, HEI is just a 1 wire install and very easy upgrade from points and only 150 bucks too. But u will lose the mech tach drive - heck install a nice AutoMeter tach with shift light too.

cardo0
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
To do this correctly you need to trace the resistor wire back to the bulkhead connector and replace it with a 10 gauge wire. The coil wire is a non-fused circuit and independent of all other key-on power.
Mike
Originally Posted by cardo0
If u don't bypass the resistor wire the coil will run on lower voltage and have reduced output. But i recall the '68 had a ballast resistor which is very easy to bypass - just short it out.
Yep, HEI is just a 1 wire install and very easy upgrade from points and only 150 bucks too. But u will lose the mech tach drive - heck install a nice AutoMeter tach with shift light too.

cardo0
OK you guys are way over my head here. Here's what I did. I took the original coil wire and just crimped on a new connector to attach to the BAT lead on the new distributor. It seemed to work fine, but are you guys saying that I'm going to have a problem or that my coil isn't getting enough juice? Also, I did buy a tach drive distributor and my tach now works fine.



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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Do u know how to use a voltmeter? Just turn the ign on and measure the voltage at that wire. Should be 12VDC - well depending on how many contact voltage drops it should read close to battery voltage. If <12VDC then u have some resistance in the circuit.
HEI will still work on low voltage but your'e missing spark power that way. Free hp power for a little effort.

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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I disagree with a couple items mentioned in the posts above. When using a voltmeter, you will only be able to determine if there's resistance in the line if there's current flowing (and noting an attending voltage drop). Just turning on the key will show roughly 12 volts regardless if there's a ballast resistor in the line or not.
Regarding the coil wire as "a non-fused circuit", that scares me. The original harness had the ballast resistance in it to limit coil current, but it also limits current in the event of a short in the coil or wiring leading to the coil. If you pull non-fused power to the HEI, there is a slight danger if there is a short circuit in the feed wire. Personally, I'm uncomfortable with unfused 12 volt lines. The HEI pulls less than six amps in normal mode (a twenty amp fuse should be fine), but its supply wire will allow a bunch of "toaster oven" current in the event of a short, with the potential to start a harness fire.
Just my two cents.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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OK I've got 12.35 at the battery and 11.88 at the distributor wire lead. Is that going to be ok? What's all this talk about non-fused and fused wire? How do I make sure I'm good? I don't want to cook this thing.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
OK I've got 12.35 at the battery and 11.88 at the distributor wire lead. Is that going to be ok? What's all this talk about non-fused and fused wire? How do I make sure I'm good? I don't want to cook this thing.
I'm not sure we're getting good (as in usable) readings here. It appears you lose almost a half volt from the battery to the coil, and this is with only microamps flowing through your meter. With the HEI trying to pull six amps, this magnitude drop is unacceptable. I don't wish to insult you, but please make sure your readings are correct. If they are, it appears you need a cleaner (lower resistance) source of power.
Fused is just as it sounds. Find an unused place in the fuse box where you have switched 12 volts (hot during ignition AND cranking), install a twenty amp fuse,(a large fuse has a lower series resistance, but will still provide some protection) and run this to your coil + terminal. This should give you a protected low resistance feed to the HEI.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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No offense taken. I just appreciate the help. I still don't understand why this is bad. I double checked and here's what I have:

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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its just low voltage thats all.....the coil will not have the same voltage as if it had a voltage source that was not running through the ballast resistor


edit:.........and it will probably work ok for you

Last edited by bobs77vet; Apr 15, 2007 at 04:05 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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Default It looks ok now.

The stock ign coil is energized until triggered by the dist reluctor - hense there is current flow (u can verify this by using that DMM ammeter function in between the coil and wire source). U can see this as if no current was flowing the full batt voltage would be at that wire and there is no voltage drop with no current flow - no that meter resistance/impedance is much too high to draw any measurable current. FYI Capacitance Discharge (CD) ign (MSD) use the reluctor trigger to energize the coil and the coil is not energized until triggered with a CD ign sys.

Now as far a 11.88VDC at the coil with 12.35 at the batt sounds ok considering contact resistance from all the wire junctions thruough the ign sw wiring path. My guess is the ballast resistor was already removed by previous owner and long gone (did u burn any previous coils?) - someone upgrade the wiring with the new eng?

If previous wire was not fused i would not change that configuration unless u know what u want to do and how to do it.

IMHO i think your fine sperkins.
cardo0
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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You need to check the voltage with the engine running.
The ign circuit is unfused. Factory designed. But if you get a short circuit in the ign it will blow the fuse link on the starter and/or on the horn relay. The result will be all of the key-on power will be dead, ign and acc. The headlites will work but nothing else.
I should have said the independent ignition circuit is not fused but the entire key-on power supply, which the ign is a part of, is on a fuse link.
Mike
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