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As I didn't find any other bolt on universal radiators that would clear the sway bar without modifications, I ordered a universal Griffin for $159. The install went smooth without any issues. I also changed the water pump to a aluminum high volume pump (+35% flow) (got it on Ebay for $49). The removal/install took about 1 hour or a little less. I already removed the shroud a while ago when I installed the electric fan so I didn't have to remove it at this time.
First, I removed the water pump and radiator hoses. Then I removed the 2 upper brackets that hold the radiator in place (each bracket is held in place with 2 bolts). After removing those brackets, the radiator lifts right out without any issues. The universal Griffin is almost the identical size, so it slipped right into the stock lower brackets. The passenger side upper bracket fits perfect and the drivers side bracket has to be bent a little bit to make the radiator sit tight. Other than slightly bending the drivers side mount, no other modifications were necessary. I had to use different radiator hoses as the outlets on the radiator are positioned differently on the Griffin (compared to the stock radiator). I used a universal steel hose kit (steel flex hose) which I got off Ebay for $49.95 (those same kits cost $140 at Summit). You could use cheaper, bendable universal radiator hoses too but the steel hoses look better and last forever..
Here are the pics of the install:
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Apr 13, 2007 at 10:30 PM.
The $159 unit has 1" tubes. The $259 unit has 1.25" tubes. I thought you wanted to get the biggest.
I have the one with 1.25 inch tubes on my race car.. The engine on the yellow '68 is very mild, so I went with the 1 inch tubed radiator... With the new HV water pump, I should have plenty of cooling... I wasn't running hot before.. (180 - 200 degrees)
I'll probably run 180 degrees with the new setup...
I have a jegs 31x19 universal rad on my 502 with 1" tubes and do not have any overheating problems. I've even got 1/3 of it blocked off with an engine oil cooler.
Now if I were pushing it for 30 minutes on a road course it MAY be different... I would try a bigger airdam first....
I've got a 68 small block car. My biggest problem has been finding a universal with a lower outlet high enough to clear the pan sheet metal under the rad.
It looks like the outlet on your griffin is higher than most I've seen. What are the dimensions and part number of that rad?
Gary
I've got a 68 small block car. My biggest problem has been finding a universal with a lower outlet high enough to clear the pan sheet metal under the rad.
It looks like the outlet on your griffin is higher than most I've seen. What are the dimensions and part number of that rad?
Gary
those blue hoses are just plain fugly, for the rest it fits nicely (I would have done something about the surface rust on the front crossmember though)
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Apr 14, 2007 at 03:06 PM.
I liked the photos until I got to the blue hoses! Personal preference, I guess. You might want to warn us to have our sunglasses handy.
Gary
The car is not a show car. I got a GREAT deal on the blue hoses on Ebay and I rather have $50 blue painted stainless hoses than $150 for polished hoses. The hood is down if I go to car cruises anyways. The car is a driver and everything that is not visible with the hood closed only needs to be functional, not beautiful. I personally don't like the color of the hoses either but I'd still not pay more to get nicer looking ones...
Just did a test drive and the temperature didn't get above 170 degrees or so... Will make a longer trip this afternoon and see how hot it'l run.. No leaks yet...
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Apr 14, 2007 at 01:31 PM.
From: Slower than a speeding bullet................ Fort Lauderdale, FL
Glad it worked out for you.
I wouldn't use those blue hoses on any car I own if you paid me $1,000.
Those are fugly, but I understand that they were cheap, and Oliver likes cheap !
Glad it worked out for you.
I wouldn't use those blue hoses on any car I own if you paid me $1,000.
Those are fugly, but I understand that they were cheap, and Oliver likes cheap !
Why would it matter if they are ugly if the hood is down? It's neither a original or show car.. I drive this car 15k miles per year and I wouldn't even consider cleaning the engine compartment as it'll get dirty again on the next trip..
Just drove 85 miles to Orlando in 90+ degrees weather...
I drove about 80 - 85 mph and the temperature would not even get up to 195 degrees.. (it went to about 190 degrees after driving about 90 for 2 - 3 miles...
It stayed at about 180 -185 degrees for most of the trip. In the same conditions, the car would run 200 - 205 degrees before... The car was never even close to overheating before and now it stays right at the perfect temperature...
I'm wondering if it would keep mine cool, what kind of power are you running? And I'm with you on the blue, function over form for me too please...the bux you saved can go towards more parts
I'm wondering if it would keep mine cool, what kind of power are you running? And I'm with you on the blue, function over form for me too please...the bux you saved can go towards more parts
Don't know to much about the engine as it was in the car when I bought it. It's a Summit aluminum headed crate engine. The heads are the same ones that can be found on the ZZ4 engines.. Probably has 300 - 350 HP or so...
I believe that with a HV water pump and electric fans, the Radiator will cool up to 550 HP easily..
Don't know to much about the engine as it was in the car when I bought it. It's a Summit aluminum headed crate engine. The heads are the same ones that can be found on the ZZ4 engines.. Probably has 300 - 350 HP or so...
I believe that with a HV water pump and electric fans, the Radiator will cool up to 550 HP easily..