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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:33 AM
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From: liberty mo
Default valve springs

i was talking to a machine shop yesterday about going through my heads and checking them over, i know i need new valve seals,have a little smoke on initial start up but goes away in a few seconds. engine has good compression,good steady vacume,and runs great. told the guy the car had been in storage for the last 14 years,and i was suprised at how well it runs,ecspecialy after some major tunning up,and other small items,and doesnt leak any fluid. he said i should replace the valve springs because they will be weak, and at least 4 springs would have been compressed and probably no good now. does this sound right? should i just do a complete rebuild on the heads and replace everything? better plant another money tree.
btw its a 78 L82.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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valve springs are cheap ...especially since they're coming off to replace seals. Many/most valves can be reconditioned & reused. Just have the guy seat the valves, new springs & seals. Don't go beyond that without also considering other heads ... 78 heads are not the greatest.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Pull the heads and do a valve job. If your going to change seals and springs, just pull em.(Yes, springs fatigue with time).
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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From: liberty mo
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Pull the heads and do a valve job. If your going to change seals and springs, just pull em.(Yes, springs fatigue with time).
it sounded logical, but today you can never tell, some people just like to make a sale. what do you think aboul using some better rockers, like the COMP magnum rocker arms, and changing to the 1.6 instead of the 1.5. figure if im going to rebuild heads, rebuild it all. hate putting old parts on new.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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I can't imagine that being in compression would significantly change any behavior of a valve spring. That's a few hundred pounds of force on metal with a modulus of many thousands of pounds.....don't think it has an effect. BUT....they could have gotten rusty and/or pitted just sitting there for that long (without oil), and that would weaken them. Plus, as the Bird said, they're cheap and used...and should be replaced.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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well since i will rebuild the heads, and want to use some better rockers like the comps i asked about earlier, does anybody have any thoughts on springs, stock or upgrade, and what manufacture suggestions.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by kwplot34
well since i will rebuild the heads, and want to use some better rockers like the comps i asked about earlier, does anybody have any thoughts on springs, stock or upgrade, and what manufacture suggestions.
Stock cam?
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:06 AM
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Choice of springs is dependent on what type of lifters, expected max. RPM, etc. If you go with a high-lift cam and solid lifters, you will need stronger springs to respond to those forces. Unless you get specific advice from accomplished engine builders, go with what the cam manufacturer recommends. Whatever springs you go with, if the vendor offers shot peening (or similar processing) for an extra charge...do it. This will put compressive stresses into the spring surface and likely prevent any spring fatigue failures.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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From: liberty mo
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Stock cam?
yes im running a stock cam believe the specs are .450, .460, 222 centerline 114. im not after mountain mover hp here, just want to get the most i can out of the motor, with some extra benefits from better than factory parts such as rockers, springs, lifters.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Choice of springs is dependent on what type of lifters, expected max. RPM, etc. If you go with a high-lift cam and solid lifters, you will need stronger springs to respond to those forces. Unless you get specific advice from accomplished engine builders, go with what the cam manufacturer recommends. Whatever springs you go with, if the vendor offers shot peening (or similar processing) for an extra charge...do it. This will put compressive stresses into the spring surface and likely prevent any spring fatigue failures.
shot peening. have herd that somewhere else before, but it was not about valve springs. does this add extra hardness to the metal?
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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Not really. There may be some microscopic "work hardening" at the surface, but that is of no real benefit by itself. Shot peening puts compressive stresses by "working" the surface with the peening shot. Doing that removes any [tensile] stress risers on the spring surface...which is where fatigue failures start.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:19 AM
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aaaaahhhhhhhhhh i see. its kinda funny that you mentioned this,because im researching blast cabinet's, wanting to buy a bench top model so i can clean up parts and repaint them,you know to all that corosion off the aluminium parts and rust off the steel parts. while looking a came accross some of the big ones that do peening. wouldn.t happen to have any experince with the bench tops would you,or any suggestions?
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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No experience in buying them. I would suggest that you find one that can shoot several mediums...sand, small shot, walnut hulls are the best to use. You can do so much with one. Sand can clean off surface corrosion/rust in a flash; small shot can peen a surface and make a cast aluminum look brand new; walnut hulls can clean "crap" off anything and leave it looking undamaged. Check 'Harbor Freight' to see if they sell one with those kind of capabilities. I'm not sure a small cabinet would have enough force to peen the surface of hardened steel (like valve springs)...best leave the 'critical' processes to good manufacturers.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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i think we have harbor freight in town, will have to go check it out, thanks for the info, later
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