Dirvers side. Regulator looks replaced and in good condition. Just replaced the motor and hooked it all up with new wiring and switch.
Window in the up position will only go down about 1/4 of the way then stops. Will go back up fine. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

Probably either jaming/hitting something or maybe stripped, or worn theeth. Sometimes they wear weird and although they look ok they don't mesh properly. Also, How about limit switches?

 

No limit switches in there. Agree it is jamming or something. My standard advice is take the window assembly completely apart, clean the 25+ years of crap out of the tracks, replace the worn rollers and reassebble. While its apart, check door ground, thats the ground for the motor, look at all the connections, check the regulator teeth and center pin for wear. Once you have it all back together it should be good for another 25 yrs.

 

Well I just got done rebuilding the pass side. Drivers side looked good like I said so I just replaced the motor and went on. I will check for an obstruction.
What is the deal with limit switches?
Is there a certain position the regulator must be in when I install the motor? I wouldnt think so but its something that crossed my mind.

 

Maybe your battery is weak. Does it get stuck when the engine is running?

 

Still rebuilding so no engine running.
Hopefully have my 383 built this week
But battery is full, will take window up and down 1/4 repeatedly.
Pulled the motor out and window will travel fully up and down so no obstructions.
There is a plate and guide ring on the back side, from the inside panel it goes in order motor, gear, regulator, then plate with guide ring. Is this correct? Should the plate be between the motor and regulator?? I wouldnt think so but its worth asking.
Motor works fine not engaging the regulator. I have diagnosed it this far but am stuck again. Any reason the motor wouldnt engage after a certain point? Does the motor only go so far then rewind or can it go indefinately in either direction??? By looking at the gears it appears it can go indefinately.

 

I just got done installing the add on replacement gear to the regulator on mine and before you remove the motor the manual and the gear replacement instructions say you must lock the regulator in position with a bolt through an access hole because the window is spring loaded. The window will be almost to the top position and these holes will align, just stick a small bolt through them to hold the position. Once the motor is set in the mounting position you can install the rear motor bracket that will lock the motor in position. The manual will show you where the bolt lock hole is but you can find it by looking through the door panel and moving the window up and down by hand near the top of its stroke.
I also had problems with the window not moving properly. It would only go down and not up. All contacting parts to the motor and the door frame act as a ground so make sure everything is clean when putting the cover back on. With the motor out, check that it can move in both directions.

 

Ok I just pulled the motor again and made sure it was all operational. I will pull it yet again and try setting the regulator in the upper position with a bolt like you said. I will let you know after a while. Thank you for all the help so far. This is aggravating.

 

Ok still no go. Anyone have any suggestions? It seems like the motor just isnt strong enough, or struggling to move the window. I sprayed the tracks down with WD-40 and it went a little further and faster but still wont go all the way, I am almost to 1/2 way up and down now. I can force it while pressing the button and get it to go up and down...
I just cant think of much else..
How much grease should be in the motor behind the gear?? Mine has a little on the drill like gear and a little on the wheel like gear. Should I pack more grease in there???

 

If you can manualy raise and lower it all the way by helping the motor than either the motor is weak as you guessed(due to drop in voltage) or the mechanism gets tight at that point. If there was no voltage you would not be able to push it down at all. First check the voltage at the motors terminals and that the conections are good and tight, see what happens when it gets to sticky point. If it drops then you have a problem with the wiring, pinched wire, things moving around yanking on a wire, ect. What is more likly though is that it is not jamming compleatly, but is binding. When you took out the motor and moved the window by hand, was it smooth throughout its travel? If not (even just a little because the motors force can exagerate it, see below) then that is the problem. Check everything, the rollers and tracks, the pivots, alignment, ect. If it was smooth then it has something to do with the interface between the motor and the rest of the mechanisim, either directly, or in the way the motors force is applied, causing binding. Think of the differance in pushing a tall object, push high, it tips, push low, it slides(best anolagy I could think of at the moment). I hope this helps, problems like this can be a nightmare.

 

Ok motor is out again. I disassembled the entire door this time. Regulator looks great. Motor looks great, gears look great, tracks look good but could use some cleaning so I am soaking them in parts cleaner and will try to reassemble it all here in a little while. I have the regulator out with a bolt in it holding it in the only place I could find (2 holes matched up) but that was about half way down.
I think I am going to go with the binding/jamming suggestions. I will reassemble it all hopefully tonight.
Is there a good way to find exactly the position of the tracks so I can prevent this binding after I reinstall it??
Should I put it all in loosely and see where it wants to sit or tighten it all down and adjust as needed??
Thank you.

 

Is the spring connected correctly?

 

correctly being wound around and the j hook connected to the extruding pin? If thats how its supposed to be, yea. I assumed that was correct. Is there a way I can wind it again and make it tighter or test the tension on it or something?

 

I just finished replacing the motor and regulator last weekend. It’s a big job and takes patients. I have the Mid America assembly manual and the GM shop service manual. I started with the Mid America, the window went about half way up. I then followed the shop manual, same result. You'll have a total of 14 bolts that can be adjusted. 6 are at the top of the door. 4 are for the forward track and 2 for the rear track. Half way down are 2 bolts for the shorter horizontal track. 1 each for the bottom of the forward and rear tracks to secure the bracket. Lastly, you'll have 4 bolts for the window stops. 2 at the top of each vertical track and 2 at the bottom. At that point I loosen all the adjustment points and then raised the window up until it stopped. I then moved the window by hand to where I felt it should be. I move it up some more and repeated the same steps again. I only snugged the bolts and then ran the window up and down a few times. This worked for me. The window goes up and down great. Regarding your lube question. The shop manual states to make sure all the tracks are clean and lube liberally. In addition, when I receive my new motor and regulator it came with a small spacer/stand off that is placed on the gear. If I recall, it had a flat area. Make sure that is installed. I strongly suggest you try to get the section of the service manual, there are some good pointers. Good luck, let us know how you made out.

 

Ok, I am ready to reinstall everything (for the 500th time). I think the problem may have been both binding and the guide pin being out.
So my ? is.
The backing plate to the motor has a guide pin in there that is slotted on one side and fits into a slot on the backing plate. If this pin moves out of the slot (I think it is) would that cause the problem I am having with the motor not moving the window.
Can I remove the backing plate and pin or is it required for proper operation?
Can I weld the backing plate and pin together since they should not be moving anyway?

GodFathers Ghost wrote:
First check the voltage at the motors terminals and that the conections are good and tight, see what happens when it gets to sticky point. If it drops then you have a problem with the wiring, pinched wire, things moving around yanking on a wire, ect.

I did check voltage and it seems I am getting 12V right when I press the switch but upon but when it gets under load and cant move voltage drops to 8-9V. The wiring is mostly all new, the switch connectors came from a junk yard tho so I will check them out and see if I can replace the wiring.

 

I GOT IT!!!!
I reassembled everything and put the old original motor in and it works great.
Damn these parts stores selling remanufactured crap that doesnt work.
I have had this happen one too many times. I am no longer buying remanufactured crap. They can only rebuild them so many times and you never know how many times its been done.
Anyway,
THANK YOU to everyone that gave me suggestion and help. Now back to the PS window...