trailing arm removal
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
trailing arm removal
I've got a 77 that needs to have both trailing arms removed. The bolt holding the arm in position is froze up and won't budge .Anyone got any suggestions or hints or want to come by the garage and help me remove this bolt ??? LOL-I've owned this car for 28 years but after this round of repairs I am about half tempted to sell this money pit.I'm getting to old to be fighting around with this old car
Anyway -Thanks in advance
Ken
Anyway -Thanks in advance
Ken
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Lufkin Texas
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
i had the same problem with mine. luckily the body was off the frame. but i used a 4in grinder. even after i had chopped the nut off i still couldnt get the bolt out the shims were stuck and were holding the the bolt. best suggestion is the torch. forget about the bushing, order a new one their cheap enough. save the frustration and get it over with. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
A slide hammer as used by the auto body industry can pull the T/A shims out and expose the bolts. Once this is done, the sawsall makes fast work of the bolts and the T/A's are out. A slide hammer can be had from Harbor Freight for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92639
DETAIL SLIDE HAMMER
Lightweight hammer provides just enough force for small dents, trim and detail work
Comes with 1-1/2'' diameter cone, 2'' L wedge and 1'' round hammer for beating, hooks for pulling
Knurled hammer for nonslip grip
Vinyl coated hand grip
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92639
DETAIL SLIDE HAMMER
Lightweight hammer provides just enough force for small dents, trim and detail work
Comes with 1-1/2'' diameter cone, 2'' L wedge and 1'' round hammer for beating, hooks for pulling
Knurled hammer for nonslip grip
Vinyl coated hand grip
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
From: Racine Wisconsin
Sawsall with blades titled "the torch." I used about 2 blades per side on those Grade 8 bolts. Remember to keep track of the shim stack. It will make it easier to realign the rear end. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have been selling Lenox blades for years. You need to get some good Bimetal blades, preferably Lenox. If you can find the demolition blades or the Gold Demo blades they are definitly tougher. Use a little cutting oil and if you have a variable speed sawzall don't go all out on the speed. Run at about half speed and cut away. You will be able to do the job with one blade easy if you do it right. Heat is your worst enemy. Most people just go as fast as they can with no lube and just burn up the blades. 
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
I have been selling Lenox blades for years. You need to get some good Bimetal blades, preferably Lenox. If you can find the demolition blades or the Gold Demo blades they are definitly tougher. Use a little cutting oil and if you have a variable speed sawzall don't go all out on the speed. Run at about half speed and cut away. You will be able to do the job with one blade easy if you do it right. Heat is your worst enemy. Most people just go as fast as they can with no lube and just burn up the blades.
Works great! Also...Menards carries a 12" Sawzall blade called "fire & rescue". Tough bi-metal blade that will make short work of those grade 8 trail arm bolts Eddie
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
Before you pull out the industrial equipment, try soaking it with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or my favorite, Kano. Hose it down for a week every day. Then using a drift punch, knock it out. Just another option.
