Solid Lifter Adjustment?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Katy TX
Solid Lifter Adjustment?
Hello,
I bought a 69 coupe that has solid lifters and there pretty noisy... I'ts been a while since If been around a solid lifter car but dont recall them being quite this noisy. Thought I would adjust them and see if they were just out of adjustment.
Is there a good step by step procedure anywhere that tells you how to adjust solid lifters?
Any of you LT1 guys probably know how to do this in your sleep... Please share your knowledge!!!
Thanks,
Michael
I bought a 69 coupe that has solid lifters and there pretty noisy... I'ts been a while since If been around a solid lifter car but dont recall them being quite this noisy. Thought I would adjust them and see if they were just out of adjustment.
Is there a good step by step procedure anywhere that tells you how to adjust solid lifters?
Any of you LT1 guys probably know how to do this in your sleep... Please share your knowledge!!!
Thanks,
Michael
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,356
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I have written procedures for both solid and hydraulic adjustments. Just drop me an e-mail request for the info sheets:
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Here 'tis
1. Fully warmed up, shut off
2. Remove ONE rocker cover, left or right, your choice
3. Set intake as exhaust closes
4. Set Exhaust as Intake opens.
5. Replace rocker cover
6. Warm up again.
7. Set other side
This works. I use .030 regardless of what the cam specs say, but that's me.
Setting the valves running is not only messy, but on my Vette, I couldn't afford that many feeler gauges. The big springs eat the ends off the gauge.
1. Fully warmed up, shut off
2. Remove ONE rocker cover, left or right, your choice
3. Set intake as exhaust closes
4. Set Exhaust as Intake opens.
5. Replace rocker cover
6. Warm up again.
7. Set other side
This works. I use .030 regardless of what the cam specs say, but that's me.
Setting the valves running is not only messy, but on my Vette, I couldn't afford that many feeler gauges. The big springs eat the ends off the gauge.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Seattle Area WA
See John Hinkley's or Lar's procedures on Barry's tech site link under valve adjustment.
http://www.lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vettetech.html
http://www.lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vettetech.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
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From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
I am with TimAT.
The feeler gauges are scrap after using them on running engine.
I also do static adjsutments on hot engine .
Rechecked this once afterwards by the running method and could not find any difference.
Günther
I am with TimAT.
The feeler gauges are scrap after using them on running engine.
I also do static adjsutments on hot engine .
Rechecked this once afterwards by the running method and could not find any difference.
Günther
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nice Lake Ontario
I vaugly remember setting the valves on my 178 cammed vette.
Seems like 030 is a lot of lash? Kinda remember .012 & .008 or something!
If I remember correctly the easiest way I found was to warm engine & begin at TDC on #1. Measure around the harmonic & divide & mark it into 4 equal spaces. Remove both valve covers & set #1 valves, then rotate the engine 1/4 revolution to next mark & set #8, continue around the balancer twice following the firing order & your done. I also remember that I only checked them once a year & never really found them out much.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong..it was a very long time ago
Seems like 030 is a lot of lash? Kinda remember .012 & .008 or something!
If I remember correctly the easiest way I found was to warm engine & begin at TDC on #1. Measure around the harmonic & divide & mark it into 4 equal spaces. Remove both valve covers & set #1 valves, then rotate the engine 1/4 revolution to next mark & set #8, continue around the balancer twice following the firing order & your done. I also remember that I only checked them once a year & never really found them out much.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong..it was a very long time ago
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
sxr6-- you are right- .030 is a lot. But the info I got back in the day came from a race team that was fairly successful in the early days of Pro Stock. And it's worked for me since then. The technology HAS improved a bunch since, but I'm still running the same combination I did in '72.
BTW- The info came from a bunch of local guys that got their info from Bill Jenkins- or so they said.
BTW- The info came from a bunch of local guys that got their info from Bill Jenkins- or so they said.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Seattle Area WA
If you follow the article by John Hinkley, the lash will be a tighter than the OEM manual calls for. This is because the lash has been recalculated using the OEM actual rocker ratio which is less than a true 1.5 and makes a difference on the noise and how the engine runs. Now if you are running aftermarket true 1.5 rockers, John's article isn't for you.
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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I gotta disagree here...
Set INTAKE as the exhaust just starts to OPEN.
Set EXHAUST when the intake is almost CLOSED.
This will put you on correct parts of lobe for adjustment.
JIM
Set INTAKE as the exhaust just starts to OPEN.
Set EXHAUST when the intake is almost CLOSED.
This will put you on correct parts of lobe for adjustment.
JIM
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Double check exactly what he wrote....think through the 4 strokes.
When the exhaust is closing.....you're on overlap..the intake will be trying to open.
When the intake is opening...same thing.....the exhaust is closing...again overlap.
You want to get lobes on base circle to adjust.
The way I typed it is that when the exhaust just starts to open..you're on the end of the power stroke...the intake has been...and will remain closed for a long time. That's when you set the intake.
Same thing on the intake...when it has gone all the way open and is coming back to almost closed...heading for compression stroke....the exhaust valve has been..and will remain closed for a long time. That's when you want to set the exhaust.
Hope this helps.
JIM
When the exhaust is closing.....you're on overlap..the intake will be trying to open.
When the intake is opening...same thing.....the exhaust is closing...again overlap.
You want to get lobes on base circle to adjust.
The way I typed it is that when the exhaust just starts to open..you're on the end of the power stroke...the intake has been...and will remain closed for a long time. That's when you set the intake.
Same thing on the intake...when it has gone all the way open and is coming back to almost closed...heading for compression stroke....the exhaust valve has been..and will remain closed for a long time. That's when you want to set the exhaust.
Hope this helps.
JIM
Le Mans Master
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From: Gladstone MO
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And that is EXACTLY why I have it all WRITTEN down I have a slight problem with CRS. Sorry for the confusion.
:o
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Trust me I understand.....lots of times what I have in my head doesn't come out of my fingertips on the keyboard right!!
And that's a tricky one anyway! I have to think it through everytime I tell someone.
JIM
And that's a tricky one anyway! I have to think it through everytime I tell someone.
JIM
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Katy TX
Thanks for all the great feedback! 
I'll print out the suggested articles linked above and give it a go!
Mainly I want to adjust them to be as quiet as possible for solid lifter, not concerned if I loose a little performance....
I just hate the clacking..... Right know The passenger side has one that is clacking bad, I don't even wat to drive it...
Here is a pic of my new ride:
I'll print out the suggested articles linked above and give it a go!
Mainly I want to adjust them to be as quiet as possible for solid lifter, not concerned if I loose a little performance....
I just hate the clacking..... Right know The passenger side has one that is clacking bad, I don't even wat to drive it...
Here is a pic of my new ride:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Nice Pics!! I just happen to like RED Chrome Bumper cars.
When you adjust the valves, feel for any rocker nuts that turn easily. They sometimes lose their locking tension and need replacing..
When you adjust the valves, feel for any rocker nuts that turn easily. They sometimes lose their locking tension and need replacing..
Race Director
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Adjust them cold with engine off. Set them .004 or so tighter with iron heads and .005-.006 tighter with aluminum heads.
That will put you about right when it's warmed up..but you can still tighten them a little more. I have a solid flat tappet that recommends .020-.022....I set it at .010 regularly. much quieter...and might even pick up a few HP. It also adds a little effective duration..but hopefully manners will still be OK.
JIM
That will put you about right when it's warmed up..but you can still tighten them a little more. I have a solid flat tappet that recommends .020-.022....I set it at .010 regularly. much quieter...and might even pick up a few HP. It also adds a little effective duration..but hopefully manners will still be OK.
JIM
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Katy TX
So the less lash = less noise?
Also is there any problems with putting roller rockers on this setup?
A racing supplier is going out of business and I can pick up a set for under $100.
Will this increase or decrease valvetrain noise....
If you can't tell I'm not a huge fan of the clacking... From my hydraulic days I just feel like they sound as if they need adjusted....
Maybe once they are adjusted right I will change my mind!!
One other question, About how long of a job is adjusting the lifters? 2 hrs?
Thanks Again!
Also is there any problems with putting roller rockers on this setup?
A racing supplier is going out of business and I can pick up a set for under $100.
Will this increase or decrease valvetrain noise....
If you can't tell I'm not a huge fan of the clacking... From my hydraulic days I just feel like they sound as if they need adjusted....
Maybe once they are adjusted right I will change my mind!!
One other question, About how long of a job is adjusting the lifters? 2 hrs?
Thanks Again!
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,011
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Yes, less lash = less noise.
Is it the LT-1 cam in there? If so they are pretty quiet. Some solids are very aggressive and have insane closing ramps and are inherently noisy. But the LT-1 is decent.
Roller rockers won't really change noise much. *Might* be a little quieter with aluminum ones..but not much. Be careful what rockers you buy. There is some real cheap Chinese junk out there.
Once solids are adjusted properly, it will be a whole new motor. It will smooth out and be more responsive..as well as quieter. Might have to re-adust carb after setting if it was messed with while they were loose.
Properly adjusted solids have a nice quiet *chatter* to them..no clacking.
It all comes with practice. I can do mine in 15 minutes....but first time will take a little while. I'd allot a couple of hours to give you plenty of time to get the *technique* down. The first few will take a few minutes as you debate the *feel* and work out the engine rotation part. Then it will take seconds for the remainder of them.
Good luck!
JIM
Is it the LT-1 cam in there? If so they are pretty quiet. Some solids are very aggressive and have insane closing ramps and are inherently noisy. But the LT-1 is decent.
Roller rockers won't really change noise much. *Might* be a little quieter with aluminum ones..but not much. Be careful what rockers you buy. There is some real cheap Chinese junk out there.
Once solids are adjusted properly, it will be a whole new motor. It will smooth out and be more responsive..as well as quieter. Might have to re-adust carb after setting if it was messed with while they were loose.
Properly adjusted solids have a nice quiet *chatter* to them..no clacking.
It all comes with practice. I can do mine in 15 minutes....but first time will take a little while. I'd allot a couple of hours to give you plenty of time to get the *technique* down. The first few will take a few minutes as you debate the *feel* and work out the engine rotation part. Then it will take seconds for the remainder of them.
Good luck!
JIM