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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 03:33 PM
  #21  
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That is probably a good idea.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Run the parts by a machine shop that will give you a better picture
of how much you may need to spend, check the heads out see
if they are going to cost any money to fix.

Did you put your converter in.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I got a pretty much complete 350 from a older chevy truck for $50. It was using oil so I figured that it has some bad rings and I could just have it honed. My question is, can I re-use the pistions with some new rings on them? The have quite a bit of carbon buildup on top. I plan to use a set of heads I have laying around along with a mild but better than stock cam and a holley 650. Also about the cam what would a run of the mill chevy cam be rated at for lift and duration?
Be careful with used pistons. I thought I saw a mention of some gouges and scratches. These will create hot-spots on the head of the piston and give you pre-ignition problems.

Also: any significant decking of the block will change the geometry between the heads and intake as a shaving of the heads?
Good l;uck...joe
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #24  
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[QUOTE]Did you put your converter in.[QUOTE]

Yup, I got the trans all back together and on the car now I am waiting for the rear end with will be here on Wednesday.

Originally Posted by vvette390
Be careful with used pistons. I thought I saw a mention of some gouges and scratches. These will create hot-spots on the head of the piston and give you pre-ignition problems.

Also: any significant decking of the block will change the geometry between the heads and intake as a shaving of the heads?
Good l;uck...joe
I decided to go with some new flat tops. I was looking at everything closer and the crank is going to need to be shaved it has noticable wear. So that will be $110. The cylinders will be fine they just need to be honed. I'm getting all new bearings for the rods, crank and cam. All together it is going to be about $500.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Ok fess up your not spending $500 without some plan for this engine.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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Well, I want to put it into something but I'm not sure yet. Or I'll just sell it.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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I pick it up from the machine shop on Friday. What should I run for a cam? How does 224/224 @ .50 sound?
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I pick it up from the machine shop on Friday. What should I run for a cam? How does 224/224 @ .50 sound?
That would wake it up some. That is the L82 cam.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:54 PM
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Those fiqures are around the same as a L/82 cam or the old
327/350 hp cam.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:42 AM
  #30  
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So, with that cam the limiting factor would be my 76cc heads?
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #31  
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I am not sure what casting number heads you have, but I'm sure they don't flow particularly well if they were a truck head. The restriction is not so much the 76cc combustion chamber as it is the runner size and shape. You can buy great flowing 76cc heads (I believe AFR's come in 76cc).

The exhaust and intake manifold would also be restrictions. You have to be able to get the good air in and the bad air out. The L82 used an aluminum intake, rather than the stock iron intake.

If you used that cam with a good set of heads and an aluminum intake, that would be a fairly good street engine.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 02:28 PM
  #32  
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If it ain't too late ? ...

Spending $110 on crank grind & then more $ on pistons & more $ on cam.

Suggest for about $250 above what you'd spend on crank grind & replacement pistons ... you could have an inexpensive stroker crank & stroker pistons... 383 ci. anytime on ebay 383 cranks are about $150-$200 & 383 pistons about $160-$180.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:44 PM
  #33  
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The heads are from a gm crate motor.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:49 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
The heads are from a gm crate motor.
The current GM crate engines that have the 76cc heads come in the 260hp and 290hp variety. The difference is the cam. The 260 has a cam that is similar to the L48 and the 290hp has a cam that is similar to the L82.

I agree with Jackson that if you are going to have to do any machine work whatsoever to the crank, just buy a new cast 383 crank because you are going to buy new pistons anyway. The 383 will give you more torque down low.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 05:03 PM
  #35  
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Then I would have to have the cylinders bored also right.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #36  
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Technically, the 383 is bored .030 over to a 4.030 bore with a 3.75 stroke. Mine is going to be a 385 because it is bored .040 over.

If it is getting machine work done already, it shouldn't cost much more to have it bored. I had mine bored with the torque plate and it was right around $200.00. If you are having it honed, some of the material is being removed from the cylinders already. You could search for pistons that are standard bore or less than .030, but they are not as common.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 05:45 PM
  #37  
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It is already .30 over.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #38  
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You have to grind on the block for clearance and cam to rods
clearance can be a problem.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #39  
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If it only has 20k miles, it should clean up at .040.

Little Mouse is right. You do have to do some clearancing of the block in a few spots to accomodate the larger stroke crank. I was starting on mine when I noticed that I received the wrong crank. That's a whole different thread though.

If you want some information on clearancing, there is tons of detailed info on here if you do a search. I found that a $15 die grinder from Harbor Freight, hooked up to an air compressor works great.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #40  
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Well, I'm not sure if I want to 383 this one. My next goal is to pull the motor in my vette and 383 it.
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