Just a quick note to let y'all know that I completed the repair of all four wiper door bolt holes and one of the actuator mounting holes on my '69 L46 coupe; used JB Weld for all five (#25 bit and 10-24 tap). Took the full weekend after I started early afternoon on Friday as the Weld has to cure for 12 hours. I worked on one end of the door at a time as I had it propped up to ensure the Weld didn't run out or settle at an angle in the holes.

All-in-all, parts replaced/used on this project to repair a slow/inoperable wiper door assembly:

Wiper door relay valve (GM Delco unit) - Dr Rebuild (Dr)
rubber grommet for wiper door actuator - Dr
wiper door safety switch - eBay
Six new shouldered mounting bolts (I salvaged two old bolts for spares in event the repair fails and I lose a bolt... fingers crossed) - Dr
set of 10 wiper door bushings - Dr

Footnote: most difficult part was working the drill bit in at a perfect angle even with a fashioned drill guide from a brass fitting. The underside of the door got in the way on one and the shoulder bolt went in a little crooked; not severely. Door opens/closes fine. So far, all threaded holes are fine. The JB Weld should be fully cured by now and sets up very solid so this should be one repair that will keep.

As I didn't have and couldn't find just the #25 drill bit matched to the 10-24 tap, I bought a small 13-piece drill/tap kit... I already had the larger tap/die set.

I also printed a number of articles from folks here on troubleshooting the vacuum system. I also found and referenced the instructions purchased from Dr Rebuild when I installed his headlight/wiper door vacuum hose kit. I think this is available from Dr Rebuild for $4 or so. Not sure on the price.

Thanks to all that convinced me to tackle this job on my own.

P.S. While the Weld was curing, I performed a few other repairs on the L46:
1. Re-installed driver's door window handle
2. Installed fresh spark plugs
3. Installed shock absorbers
4. Re-routed 1-3 and 2-4 spark plug wires under the 'v' ignition shielding along the lower block area. PO had routed and tied those wires to hoses, brake lines and such; took me two years to get around to that repair as I had to drop the starter and remove the flywheel splash pan to address 2-4 spark plug wires.
5. Repaired the driver's shoulder belt using the retractor coil from a donor shoulder belt (I think this came from Gruhala Enterprises).

I've a few more projects planned to perform on the L46 this spring:
1. Replace dashboard gauge light bulbs and tach needle
2. Install power steering conversion
3. Install rear swaybar kit

And on and on...

 

Good deal Ted
I'm glad you got it all working. JB weld can work miracles!

 

Here's the next "head's up" for you.... When you work on the dash lights you will quickly find that the bulb/socket design $uck$! So just plan on doing the following to ALL of the dash light sockets (you're going to replace all the bulbs, anyway). With the bulb removed, use a little screwdriver point to pry the flimsy metal retainer from the plastic socket [several will pop out on their own]. When ready to "fix" a few of the sockets, mix up a little 2-part epoxy...I think JBWeld is a bit much for this job, and you need a glue that will flow down in the retainer pin holes....a thick liquid epoxy is best. Use a toothpick to get a small amount of epoxy and then place it into the two pin holes that the metal retainer is to be pressed back in. Then push the metal retainer back in place and move on to the next socket. Do this for all the "standard" dash bulbs. Some of the special bulbs have better designed sockets and don't need this repair.