I have recently began reviving my 79 L82 that I bought in 93, I have finished 383 - 700R4 - electric fan swap that is fantastic!!!! and I am trying to slowly iron out some details on a very small budget (college student).

My old L82 cold air system was pretty beat-up and I would like to replace it with a nice K&N style cold air system. I will have to fabricate the front piece to go over the core support (where the old system used to be), but I am wondering if anyone knows of any CHEAP ways to adapt the tubing to the carb because I really don't want to fab that too..... and I really like the idea of having easy access to the carb for tuning, without having to take of the air breather.

Any suggestions?

 

Cheapest way is to take it off and get a regular air filter.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51908_-1_11349

 

Unfortunately you are probably right....I can't believe that I am the only one interested in getting cold air to a carb with a modern look, especially considering how hot the engine compartments are on old vettes. I guess I 'll fab the whole thing myself....

 

There are a lot of oem parts and systems on ebay.

 

If you really want to do it this could help. You won't notice it at all though

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...ld+air&x=0&y=0

http://www.ramairbox.com/index.html

 

You could run a hood scoop but you'll run the risk of getting slated for it in here

I just bought a lovely little low profile hood scoop that is fitted to the latest Nissan Patrols. It'll look damn good (IMHO) and also allow cold(er) air to the carb.

Just my 2c

 

Batsmith,getting cooler air into the carb is good but you'll also have to think about getting the hot air out...my 383 with long tube headers generates an amazing amount of heat and the C3 isn't very good at venting it out except at speed....i have resorted to lifting the windshield edge of the hood to assist in getting hot air out...john

 

WOW that ram air box is huge!!!! the specta stuff may come in handy though

Wait, took another look at the ram air box site, lots of good stuff there thanks......

 

I don't think I want to cut my hood, though I have considered a big block hood down the road.

 

I have that same exact problem with full length headers and all..... amazing amount of heat!! I have considered raising the hood like you suggested, or maybe putting small fans into the gaps in the fender where the rubber pieces are to suck hot air out. I wish I could afford nice coated headers to keep the radiant heat down some.

According to the stock gage, my motor still runs around 220 deg so i need to try something

 

How about something like this?

 

I like the way that looks, very business like just how they should be!! thanks for the pic, although I kept getting distracted by the "502" emblem! ...what were we talking about again?

 

Keep in mind that there is enough of a high pressure area at the base of the windshield to push air in through the back of your raised hood at speed. That's why the L88 cowl induction works so well for cold air intake. Also, it may not seem apparent, but adding an air dam up front actually helps evacualte air from under the hood because it lowers the pressure under the car and all that hot air can more readily escape...

For some really great reading on C3 ventilation and induction airflow, check out the following:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1419660

 

THAT, plus THIS

http://www.e-bodyparts.com/miva/merc...t_Code=TCVH-68

=

 

batsmith,
I experimented with several combos on my 71 before I switched to tpi and concluded that the OE intake with a KN filter was very effective. It should be effective for your 383 up to 5500 to 6000 rpm.

 

jpatric,

Is it kosher to be jealous in here?

flynhi,

Thanks for the encouragement, I should have mentioned that the new motor has a stealth intake and holley carb mated to the stock L82 heads and a mild Comp cam, it's a real kick in the pants and the low end is just unbelievable. If I had to guess, I would say mid 13's, but I haven't had it to the track yet because it is my daily driver (and because I haven't replaced the old worn out u-joints yet).

My goal is a 12 second driver, which is why I MUST get some cold air to that motor..... and perhaps sell my soul for a set of AFR heads

 

Thanks, that was alot of help....really got the wheels turning.

 

A few years ago, I did the yarn test on my 71 to confirm what I had heard about air flow all around the Vette. My test did not confirm thenegative iar pressure at the base of the windshield. My yarn at that location just fluttered about at speed up to 90 MPH. So I took a different approach.

I removed the front license plate and tried several designs to take advantage of ram air pressure.

I tried the late OE design with a plastic scoop in the center of the radiator frame and another on the passenger side. It worked but looked pretty funky and didn't fit very well with the AC compressor.

Then I used two Camaro dust pan shaped scoops to collect air coming over the radiator frame. These fed two flex hoses that connected to a closed round air filter OE box on my carb. This looked more symmetrical and worked well enough.

When I converted to the 383 TPI, I needed a slightly higher hood to clear the tpi plenum so I installed a BB hood. This gave me more clearance over the radiator frame so I fabbed a larger scoop that attaches to the radiator frame, feeds the air filter at the front of the throttle body and seals to the underside of the hood as it closes.

I have measured air temps outside the engine bay and inside the scoop and they are the same. So air coming up the front of the radiator doesn't seem to pick up heat from the radiator.

The point of all this is that there are several ways to get cold air into the engine bay.

 

Captain obvious here...
You did have either the hood lifted or an opening in the cowl to facilitate air movement during your yarn test, right?
Just verifying, because the L88 and several other cowl induction hoods certainly do work. Btw, it's higher rather than negative pressure that builds at the base of the windshield.
In any event, yes, there are a number of answers to inducting cold air, through the nose being among them.

 

Correct on both counts. I did have the hood unlatched and open a bit and I should have said positive pressure. I was puzzled by this since GM and others clearly had different results.
Regardless, I prefer my method since it looks OE with a flat hood at the cowl.