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Steering Valve Removal again

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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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Default Steering Valve Removal again

In looking through the archives I have learned that it is a bad idea to use a pickle fork and that a puller is best to separate the valve from the pitman arm. I rented a puller from AZ but where does it fit? - lack of space..
Does someone have a pic that shows their puller on the pitman arm?
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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Sorry, no. But, your info is correct. Stay tuned, someone will have the photo...
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Ttt..
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Sorry, no. But, your info is correct. Stay tuned, someone will have the photo...


one of my projects soon.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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Anyone else done this job?....

Ok, What do you think about removing the big nut on the other side of the pitman arm (at the steering box) and then just taking the whole unit out as one piece?
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 10:44 PM
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After I pour some fluid in my empty pump, bleed it per procedure, and fire up the car so that it can then spray fluid all over the place, I will be replacing my valve also, and hoses etc. LOL, I love taking stupid risks. I will be interested in reading more in this thread about the removal process. Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 79vetter
In looking through the archives I have learned that it is a bad idea to use a pickle fork and that a puller is best to separate the valve from the pitman arm. I rented a puller from AZ but where does it fit? - lack of space..
Does someone have a pic that shows their puller on the pitman arm?
It is a tight fit.... you have to locate a puller that fits.

The one I use is a heavy duty pitman arm puller sold by OTC.
#7311A.

http://www.otctools.com/products/detail.php?id=1824

As as side note, this one also just fits between the top & bottom ball joints to remove the ball joints.... with a little rigging.

Other people have located less expensive pullers that will fit.
I only have the OTC unit.

If you use a pickle fork, the side load imparted by the hammer & fork is transmitted to the gear box. This can damage the gearbox internals and the shaft lower bushing.

Edit...

AutoZone has two different "Great Neck" pitman arm pullers listed.... the 27016 which is 8.5 inches tall, and the 25262 which is 7 inches tall. Maybe you rented the tall one, or an entirely different one. I dunno.

Last edited by Tom454; Apr 27, 2007 at 01:15 PM. Reason: add info
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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I use 2 3lb short handles hammers. Hold one fast against one side of the joint and smak the hell out of the other side of the joint, the thing will fall out. Watch out for your thumb
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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Tom, I rented one that is exactly 3 inches long on the 2 arms of the puller...Heck- its still too big... I'm trying to put the middle bolt of the puller on top of the ball stud but the frame is in the way.
How big is yours?
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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Turn the steering wheel (left turn) and the joint will move away from the frame and toward the oil pan.... there is a spot where the tool will fit.

PS- My wife can't use a ruler... she still thinks 3" is 6.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom454
Turn the steering wheel (left turn) and the joint will move away from the frame and toward the oil pan.... there is a spot where the tool will fit.

PS- My wife can't use a ruler... she still thinks 3" is 6.

Thanks Tom, you were right- there is now a larger opening and it popped right off with the 3 inch puller.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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Cool Beans.

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