Well, its been three years since I had my 1970 out and running. I have been swapping the chassis, re-sealing the engine, etc., etc.

Today, I finally pulled it out filled it with fluids, primed the engine and tried to start it. The engine cranked just fine.

Turns out I am not getting a spark. The coil is fairly new and the car has a Pertronix solid state ignition under the cap.

I will be re-checking all of the connections again tomorrow, however any quick tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Check for voltage at the coil with the key on. I would suspect an issue with the Pertronix module. Make sure the grounds are good as they may be corroded from sitting.

 

I'll tell you what happened to me a couple of years ago with my '69 427/435...it sounds very much like your situation...even to the Pertronix coil and ignitor kit.

My car cranked over fine and would not fire...like you, no spark to the plugs. I removed the cap to the coil and distributor shielding and then the car would suddenly fire and start. Really strange. While the engine was running and idling, I ran my hand close...not touching, the distributor and I got a shock that sent me running to a dark room to see if my nuts had turned into nightlights! Pertronix doesn't call that coil "Flamethrower" for no reason!

What had happened is the boot on the coil wire had developed a pinhole and the spark was escaping and grounding out on the shield lid...even through the insulation on the inside of the lid. I replaced the coil wire and no more problem.

If nothing else, use a well insulated spark plug wire pliers and hold the coil wire near the block. Crank the engine and see if there's a spark jumping to the block. If there is, then you know you have a problem within the distributor. If you still have no spark, it's the coil or elsewhere in the wiring up to that point.

Just be careful...you don't want nightlights either!

Look for something simple like that. Maybe you'll be fortunate and fix it easily.

 

Ok, I dug back into this last night. It appears that everything is wired correctly on both the starter and the coil.

I am getting 12 volts to the coil when the ignition is turned on.

I tried a known working coil out of my 442 and it wouldn't start.

At this point, I am switching out the Pertronix for the original points.

Any other suggestions, measurement, etc?

Thanks again.

 

Measure the voltage at the coil when the engine is cranking.

 

Had the Pertronix in my 71 and it just shut off one day for no apparent reason. Well the wires that come from the module inside the cap had somehow rubbed themselves bare and were grounding out on the distributor. A quick jog down to the parts store (luckily I was in town) bought some electrical tape and problem was solved. That's my piece of advice. Don't know if it will help but it can't hurt.

 

What should it be? I am getting 12 volts with the ignition turned on.

It appears that I am getting a spark now. I have put the points back in.

With a timing light hooked up, I was able to adjust the timing to within a range it should start while cranking.

The engine just cranks and eventually "burps" through the carburator. No indication of a ignition. Just eventually floods out pretty bad.

If I am able to get a signal from wire on the #1 cylinder for the timing light.

Car has:

1. New plugs
2. Fresh gas
3. New rotor and cap
4. Fairly fresh plug wires

I have double checked the firing order and the seal between the carb and intake.

This car ran like a champ when I began dis-assembly three years ago. Didn't touch any engine internals. Just gave it a fresh coat of paint. This problem is getting pretty puzzling. It has to be something real basic I am missing.

Thanks for any help.

 

yup you only do that once.......i wont even adjust timing without a set of heavy leather gloves on....

look for a grounded out distributor

 

You should get 12 volts when it's cranking and 8-9 volts when in the run (on) position if you have point type ignition. If you are not getting 12 volts during cranking, then most likely the starter solenoid is bad.

 

Shouldn't I be getting some type of "firing" or is it your feeling that the spark is too weak?

I am beginning to wonder if I installed the intake manifold gaskets wrong or something at this point. Something just doesn't add up.

Trying to get back to basics from my HS auto shop class. Need three things to run: 1)spark; 2)compression; and 3)fuel.

I can run a compression test, but a few years ago all cylinders were measuring at least 130 psi and all within 10-14% and assume that this hasn't changed. Fuel is getting delivered and eventually flooding out. Spark seems to be coming through at timing light and at from coil.

 

Like BOB77 already wrote, your distributer is losing its ground. Probably that new paint under the clamp or rust in the distrib.. Will cause week spark and eventually no spark.

 

Weak spark=no start. Measure the voltage at the coil when cranking. Also as others have said, check for good grounds. I believe you said that you are sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out.

 

I am going to check voltage at coil while cranking tomorrow. Need a MM with digital readout to get a good reading.

Grounds. Obviously battery ground, exhaust, two frame grounds near tank and behind left front wheel. Starter to frame mount. What other grounds could I be missing as these are all secure? Distributor hold down was not painted and is very secure against shaft.

The intake is totally wet from fuel so I wonder if I have a compunded problem of flooding and weak spark. Turning it over "burps" fuel right back up through the carb.

Thanks for the help. Will keep you posted on progress.

At least I have the 2007 to rip around as it sure is a nice Saturday here in Michigan!

 

If it "burps" fuel out the carb, sounds like the timing is way off. I would pull the dist again, remove #1 plug and rotate crank until you feel compression with your finger in the plug hole. Check to see if the timing marks line up. Re-install dist with rotor pointing to #1 wire.......you know the routine.

 

Yeppers. Timing was 180 off. Changed the wires and she started right up!

Thanks for all of the tips, advice etc.