I think my starter solenoid is going bad on my 76. When I turn the key to start the car there is sometimes a delay till when the starter engages.

It doesn't do it all the time, it almost seems like it does it more if the engine is warm.

My question is, on these starters, the starter and solenoid are one unit or can you just replace the solenoid?

 

The solenoid can be purchased seperately and installed easily.

 

Thanks. Is it right on top of the starter?

 

Yes, you have to drop the starter out to replace the soleniod
You may find the solenoid gunked up when you get in there causing the problem

 

Prior to buying the car last month we had the previous owner have the valve cover gaskets replaced as they were leaking...wonder if oil could've dripped onto the starter and gunked it up?

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. Try cleaning before you buy.

Good luck.

 

If it was mine, I would go ahead and pull, clean and reassemble the starter and solenoid and see what happens. Will cost a couple hours, couple beers and a couple rags and solvent.
Reman starter is a pretty good deal, if you get one that works the first time, odds not good on that.
While your at it get a good look at the started ground, it should not be crisp anywhere along its length and the ends need to be nice and shiney where connected to the starter bracket and motormount. I always move the starter end to the bolt on the starter itself instead of to the bracket, just a little more insurance.
Same goes for the big battery cable on the starter, clean, no corrosion etc..
The worst thing that can happen is the starter you fix dosen't fix and you have to replace it. I have never pulled one out that was marginal like that and had to do it more than once. Pay a little attention to the details and it will fix up fine unless it is really broken.

 

Thanks Bill and Sixfooter. I will try and get it out this weekend and see how it looks.

 

Replace the starter or solenoid pronto! If mine gets too hot it's the worlds best anti-theft device. That car wont go anywhere until it cools off. I had to start it twice now by crossing over those three bolts on the back of the starter/solenoid. I have had it click at me at least five times. Once was today after the car decided it need a new thermostat, I got lucky today and didn't have to crawl underneath the car.

 

If it delays only when hot, this symptom can be caused by having the timing too far advanced also.

 

It only does it on occasion Brad.

Sometimes if it doesn't want to start when I turn key I found just leaving it in that position for another second or two will allow it to start....that or cycling the key.

But it is very intermittent.

 

Could it be that the starter isn't seated properly or possibly the inside has worn down and it doesn't catch sometimes....maybe?

 

I will be pulling it this weekend, let you guys know what I find.

 

the silent delay could be caused by corrosion. Check not only the ground as mentioned above but also the cables running back to the battery. Are the terminals clean and tight at the battery?

 

I will, thanks Paul. I will double check the battery terms, didn't do that.

 

jetdoc...

It sounds like you are on the right track with the solenoid.

However, there is one other thing to keep in mind if this does not fix the problem and that is the ignition switch that is fastened to the top of the column, near your feet.

The key turns a lever, that then moves a long rod down the top of the column, which in turn moves a slide inside the actual ignition switch. These switches are simply clamped together, sandwiching the slide in between two sets of electrical contacts. As the slide moves from the OFF position through the ON to the START positions, it allows different electrical functions to take place, to include sending 12 volts to the solenoid to engage the starter.

The switch is mounted to the top of the column by nothing more than screws. If the screws get loose, the switch can get out of rig and not allow consistent contact in the START position. When this happens, you can sometimes reach on top of the column and push the rod (toward the firewall) just a bit more to make contact. If this works, simply loosen the screws and move the switch slightly to get it back in rig.

I have also seen the "clamps" loosen and allow too much slop in the switch which resulted in inconsistent engagement of the starter. This switch resulted in a massive recall of Ford vehicles in the mid 90's to replace them. The switch would arc internally and led to some fires.

It's one of those things that rarely happens, but will frustrate the dickens out of you searching for the culprit when it does.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Gusto14, thats another idea. I will keep that in line for possible causes after I mess with the starter.

By your avatar, are you in the Marines?