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I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes. That includes rotating engine two revolutions stopping at quarter turns. You could feel the pressure build since the distributor shaft wanted to go backwards if you let go, but if you held it, you also felt the pressure bleed off. Eventually I saw oil coming out every rocker so I was stoked.
I could see how people burn up drill motors since when the pressure builds up more than it can bleed, you can barely turn the dist shaft and it feels like it will break something. So it just makes me wonder how spinning this thing fast does anything.
I tried to prime with an old distributor shaft but could only get oil to one side. I had to get the "proper tool" to get oil to the other side. I think you're luck
As you've proven, it doesn't require that much speed, 500 rpm is plenty and equals 1000 rpm if the engine were running. Some guys are pushing their drills way too hard. Since most drills are variable speed they must be operating the drill like they do their cars and flooring the trigger.
Originally Posted by Surfer69
I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes. That includes rotating engine two revolutions stopping at quarter turns. You could feel the pressure build since the distributor shaft wanted to go backwards if you let go, but if you held it, you also felt the pressure bleed off. Eventually I saw oil coming out every rocker so I was stoked.
I could see how people burn up drill motors since when the pressure builds up more than it can bleed, you can barely turn the dist shaft and it feels like it will break something. So it just makes me wonder how spinning this thing fast does anything.
the distributor shaft by itself only does one side ...an old distributor has the large outer housing that gets flow to both sides.....if your engine had been sitting a really long while and all the oil passages had drained it would have taken you along time to do this by hand....you lucked out and good job
We use a engine pre-oiler. Consisting of a special air tank and naturally air pressure with a hose connected to the oil pressure engine port. pushing 4-5 quarts throughout the engine.
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Sounds like "renting" a GM pre-oiler from Autozone would be a good idea for me. It slips in just like the distributor....gasket and all .... minus the drive gear.......!
Do they still make those little rocker clips that stop the oil from squirting everywhere ??
I'm wondering why the pressure build up doesnt force whatever is trying to turn the pump to want to stop since the engine is not spinning and bleed off is very slow.
I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes.
Someone straighten me out.
It's faster and easier. I can use a drill and a pre-oiler and prime an engine in about a minute. I agree it is tough on a drill, but my Makita has held up pretty well.
Now I'm thinking the pressure bypass valve must open when using a drill motor, thereby allowing the drill motor to spin continuously even though highly loaded.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i think you are thinking about this way too much........the pump compresses oil and it flows through the oil passages....the crankshaft journals and cam shaft journals get lots of oil and any "increased pressure" that you are thinking of is "bled" off to those
i think you are thinking about this way too much........the pump compresses oil and it flows through the oil passages....the crankshaft journals and cam shaft journals get lots of oil and any "increased pressure" that you are thinking of is "bled" off to those
That .002 to .003 clearance in those bearings is a built in oil leak. And it HAS to be there or you get lots of pressure and zero flow. There are a ton of built in leaks. Cam bearings, rods, mains, lifter bores, thru the lifters, timing chain, just everywhere. The trick is to balance the system so you have enough pressure, and then also have enough flow to keep everything moving. That oil "flow" is what cools all the parts, and carries off any trash that may develop.