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Priming engine on stand, no drill.

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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Default Priming engine on stand, no drill.

I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes. That includes rotating engine two revolutions stopping at quarter turns. You could feel the pressure build since the distributor shaft wanted to go backwards if you let go, but if you held it, you also felt the pressure bleed off. Eventually I saw oil coming out every rocker so I was stoked.

I could see how people burn up drill motors since when the pressure builds up more than it can bleed, you can barely turn the dist shaft and it feels like it will break something. So it just makes me wonder how spinning this thing fast does anything.

Someone straighten me out.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:52 PM
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I tried to prime with an old distributor shaft but could only get oil to one side. I had to get the "proper tool" to get oil to the other side. I think you're luck

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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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As you've proven, it doesn't require that much speed, 500 rpm is plenty and equals 1000 rpm if the engine were running. Some guys are pushing their drills way too hard. Since most drills are variable speed they must be operating the drill like they do their cars and flooring the trigger.


Originally Posted by Surfer69
I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes. That includes rotating engine two revolutions stopping at quarter turns. You could feel the pressure build since the distributor shaft wanted to go backwards if you let go, but if you held it, you also felt the pressure bleed off. Eventually I saw oil coming out every rocker so I was stoked.

I could see how people burn up drill motors since when the pressure builds up more than it can bleed, you can barely turn the dist shaft and it feels like it will break something. So it just makes me wonder how spinning this thing fast does anything.

Someone straighten me out.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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the distributor shaft by itself only does one side ...an old distributor has the large outer housing that gets flow to both sides.....if your engine had been sitting a really long while and all the oil passages had drained it would have taken you along time to do this by hand....you lucked out and good job
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Old May 5, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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what do you need to put in the drill to make the oil go both ways
got a picture
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Old May 5, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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We use a engine pre-oiler. Consisting of a special air tank and naturally air pressure with a hose connected to the oil pressure engine port. pushing 4-5 quarts throughout the engine.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by car kid
what do you need to put in the drill to make the oil go both ways
got a picture
its just the middle part of the distributor housing that is a large round circle approx 1 1/4" in diameter
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Old May 6, 2007 | 08:56 AM
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Sounds like "renting" a GM pre-oiler from Autozone would be a good idea for me. It slips in just like the distributor....gasket and all .... minus the drive gear.......!

Do they still make those little rocker clips that stop the oil from squirting everywhere ??
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Old May 6, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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you really don't have to worry about the oil squirting everywhere its more of where it drips.....
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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I'm wondering why the pressure build up doesnt force whatever is trying to turn the pump to want to stop since the engine is not spinning and bleed off is very slow.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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thats what creates pressure and has been known to burn out cheap drills
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Old May 7, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
thats what creates pressure and has been known to burn out cheap drills
Better a cheap $40 drill than a $5K or more motor. I use a decent 1/2 drill and after 15 years of abusing the drill it still is going strong.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Surfer69
I'm confused why everyone talks of using a drill motor to turn the oil pump to prime any engine. I used an old distributor and just with my hand, turned the thing from bare dry to oil flowing out all rockers within I'd say 30 turns and 15 minutes.
Someone straighten me out.
It's faster and easier. I can use a drill and a pre-oiler and prime an engine in about a minute. I agree it is tough on a drill, but my Makita has held up pretty well.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Now I'm thinking the pressure bypass valve must open when using a drill motor, thereby allowing the drill motor to spin continuously even though highly loaded.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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i think you are thinking about this way too much........the pump compresses oil and it flows through the oil passages....the crankshaft journals and cam shaft journals get lots of oil and any "increased pressure" that you are thinking of is "bled" off to those
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Old May 7, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i think you are thinking about this way too much........the pump compresses oil and it flows through the oil passages....the crankshaft journals and cam shaft journals get lots of oil and any "increased pressure" that you are thinking of is "bled" off to those


That .002 to .003 clearance in those bearings is a built in oil leak. And it HAS to be there or you get lots of pressure and zero flow. There are a ton of built in leaks. Cam bearings, rods, mains, lifter bores, thru the lifters, timing chain, just everywhere. The trick is to balance the system so you have enough pressure, and then also have enough flow to keep everything moving. That oil "flow" is what cools all the parts, and carries off any trash that may develop.

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