When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I'm putting the rings on. How do I know which one is which. My instructions don't say where to put the 2 top ones. I have the wavy one in with the thin rings on top and bottom. But I don't know what order the other 2 go in. I have 2 types of rings. Ones with a silver outer edge and one with a black out edge.
There are two thin oil control rings that go in the bottom groove of the piston. The wavy support ring goes between these two.
The next ring up is the 2nd compression ring and has a dot on it or says top....this side faces the top of the piston.
The top ring is the chrome moly compression ring and goes in the top groove. Sometimes they have a dot or top...sometimes not. Depends upon the style of ring it is.
Installation order of the rings is as follows; rings install from the top:
wavy ring in bottom groove
thin oil control ring below the wavy ring
thin oil control ring above the wavy ring
2nd compression ring
top chrome moly comperssion ring
Be sure to stager the ring gaps so that they do not line-up going down the piston. My book says DO NOT wind the top two rings on, only use a ring expander...available at Sears for $7.
My book also shows the piston with all its ring being completely dunked into a can of oil before installing into the block. I don't do this...I just spread some oil supplement across the piston and rings.
The more oil the better. It's a good way to help prevent broken rings and ease the install.
Not according to the machinist who did my 454. He was very specific in that only a hair thin coat of oil was to be wiped on the walls and no oil on the rings. He says he has seen several engines glaze the walls because of too much oil.
I followed his advice and the engine never used any oil. There wasn't even a puff at the very first startup.
Depending on the manufacturer, that top ring probably has to go on a certain way. It might have a bevel, rounded, cut-a-way (etc) end that signifies top. TO BE SURE...Check with the manufacturer before install.
You don't want to find out later that your cylinders will not hold compression.
Eddie
Ok, I got them all in. I'm certain I got the rings on the right way. I put the one with the dot in the middle slot dot side up and the chrome sided one on the top slot. Which didn't have any markings. I put on one cylinder head so far.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Congrats. The rings were a major PIA for me. I installed and removed the first two pistons twice! Just to confirm I had the correct rings in the correct order.
Justin, I can do interiors, suspension, trannys, paint and engines, my favorite part of a restore is the engine, I take my time and savor every moment of it. Good luck and have fun.
Congrats. The rings were a major PIA for me. I installed and removed the first two pistons twice! Just to confirm I had the correct rings in the correct order.
I actually removed a few of them and put them back in also. Just to be sure.
Justin,
What part number of pistons are you using?
Did the machine shop put the pistons on the rods?
Did you put the pistons/rods on the crank so that the rod bearing tang was on the outside for each pair?
Not sure on the p/n. They are just a run of the mill flat top. Yes the machine shop put the rods on and if by tang you mean the "squared" edge then yes. That is the only way they fit I think.
What I meant by the rod bearing tang was:
In the rod itself, there is a small notch that the rod bearing fits into. This notch should be on the outside of each rod pairs when on the crank. The rod cap also has a notch for the bearing, these should be on the inside of a pair when on the crank.
If your machine shop put the pistons on the rod and the pistons were marked with an arrow that points to the front of the engine when installed into the block, you will be okay, as long as the machine shop put them on correctly.
Were your pistons four vavle or two valve relief flat-tops?
I used floating two valve relief pistons and they were not marked with an arrow. So I had to be sure to put the reliefs on the intake side of each cylinder and be sure I had the rod positioned correctly (rod bearing notch on the outside) before putting the piston on.