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It only seems to happen when the car is really hot, I have to do several 10s of miles before mine starts the kangaroo though.
I thought it was transmission also, but am also looking at fuel issues at this time, if you get a fix - tell me what it is PLEASE !
I have to drive a long way to get it do do it - but once it starts it's there pretty much all the time.
I have re-newed:
The metal line from pump to carb. (and then insulted it)
The paper filter in the carb.
The flexible hoses to the pump.
Checked that the Gas Tank Cap does breath (try that on yours) if you are pulling a vacuum in the tank that will cause starvation.
I'm waiting for a new pump (why is it so hard to get bits in the UK ?)
I guess if it still does it after all that then I've run out of ideas.
I'm guessing it's not spark fade, since if it was when the spark came back it would ignite the fuel which had been pumped into the exhaust causing a backfire - don't get that.
Anyway - if you solve it - please let me know how.
I have had a similar experience and can tell you what I did. I found fuel leaking from the carburetor accelerator pump, so I decided to rebuild it. Lars gave me the part number of the preferred rebuild kit, new float, paper fuel filter and vacuum pull off (1972 Quadrajet).
The rebuild was not too hard at all and allowed me to clean up the carb and intake. I adjusted my timing for 36 degrees advance at 2800 rpm and so far, I have not experienced the problem. The car has a solid acceleration from a dead stop and when I stomp on it, she jumps.
"You have to pull the top of the carb off to set the float level. With the top removed, remove the big phenolic spacer that covers the area around the needle/seat. Hold the float hinge clip firmly seated and push down lightly on the float where it contacts the needle. Measure from the top of the float bowl to the top of the float at the rear edge of the float. Float level should be .375” for a street-driven car using a 1968 – 1974 carb; you can run it at .250” for racing. Early Q-Jets (1968-1972) can be successfully run on the street with the high float level, but you may see some fuel saturation of the air horn gasket with associated gas fumes. Later carbs (1975 and newer) do not run well in street applications with the high float level – run the 1975 + carbs at .420” on the float level. Adjust the float level by removing the float and bending its lever arm. Never raise the float level by forcing the float against the needle/seat to bend it – this will damage the needle."
For the oem type float, if it becomes impregnated with fuel, it does not 'float' all of the way up which has the same effect of setting too low.
If you contact Lars directly, he can send you the latest update to his qjet tuning paper.
Last edited by justanotherdoe; May 9, 2007 at 02:26 PM.
I may have gotten lucky! Found a 10''small rubber hose from the steel line running from the tank to the inlet of the fuel pump has a major kink! Do not know how long this has been like this, but this will be my first plan of attack, to change out that small line with a 10'' piece of fresh rubber fuel line. If that does not work, then I will try changing the carb fuel filter. i want to take baby steps first before removing the tank and checking the sock.
Sure sounds like classic symptoms of a bad accellerator pump to me.
Dont think so. When I stomp on it goes. It just starts puttering out after about 5 seconds. A bad accelerator would be an immediate bog when I mashed on it.
Either a clogged fuel filter, clogged pickup sock, kinked fuel line or the fuel pump is not delivering enough fuel.
You got 'em all except for a cracked fuel line on the suction side. It can be cracked and not leak fuel. The pump will start sucking air at high demand situations.
I had the same problem. I dropped the tank and replaced the strainer inside. You can shine a flashlight in the fill hole and see if the strainer looks in rough shape, easiest when tank is on "E" or close to it. My car runs much better now, all I need to do now is replace the plug wires. Its always something.
Dave
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by VettePower
Dont think so. When I stomp on it goes. It just starts puttering out after about 5 seconds. A bad accelerator would be an immediate bog when I mashed on it.
I'll put my money on the kinked hose. Sounds like just the kind of restriction that would cause your problem. Put a clamp on the hose just after the tank outlet and cut it after the clamp. This will keep you from losing fuel. Then you can put the new section in with a "jumper union" from the old hose to the new section. Secure it, release the clamp and put the pedal to the metal!
I'll put my money on the kinked hose. Sounds like just the kind of restriction that would cause your problem. Put a clamp on the hose just after the tank outlet and cut it after the clamp. This will keep you from losing fuel. Then you can put the new section in with a "jumper union" from the old hose to the new section. Secure it, release the clamp and put the pedal to the metal!
Thats what I was wondering. I have to change ot this 10'' piece of hose with the kink. But I cannot put a clamp on the steel line!! Does that mean the gas will pour out of the open steel line from the tank??
Hey guys. I'm new here so bear with me. I have a '82 which is having the same type of spitting and sputtering going at hi way speed. At one time when I applied half throttle is when the sputtering would start. Now its started at cruising speed. I'm leaning towards the in line fuel filter. But, can I get access to the tank sock through the fuel cap area?
Thanks.
Dont think so. When I stomp on it goes. It just starts puttering out after about 5 seconds. A bad accelerator would be an immediate bog when I mashed on it.
Well i changed out the fuel pump and it still does the jumping thing. I think the next plan would be to start replacing the fuel lines
these problems are easy to fix.
1st i put on my fuel pump tester, tape it to windshield and test drive.
for those w/catalytic converter, i check the psi in front of it, if #1 isn't it.
In 1970 i was 17 and put an ad in the paper WILL FIX ANY ENGINE PROBLEM $10 OR NO CHARGE. Fixed a brand new chevy in 15 min. that the guy took in 5 or 6 times to the dealer. LOL
I'm having the same problem, every once in a while the car bucks like a bull for a few seconds then returns to normal. Usually happens when I put my foot to it, but not all the time. Occasionally the car doesn't want to start easily and it seems to be for the same reason, no fuel! I followed my fuel line back to the tank and didn't see any kinks or leaks, and my filter was clean.
Matt Gruber--- If you were close by I'd gladly pay you the 10 bucks!