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I sent my carb to BFIC/Carbsonly in Burbank, CA. Talk to Carlos Vasquez, he will ask you for specific details about your cam, intake, and exhaust. My car has never idiled this good. 877-333-3130.
The carb shop had a very good reputation for both Holley and Rochester carbs so if it's still the same company they should be able to set you up correctly.
IS it any relationship to the Carb Shop of some years ago that Brad Urban ran in Ontario Cali??? I hears Brad died suddenly....younger guy too boot....sickness...
wonder about that must be state registered trade name....been a long time....
Sent my Rochester for my 442 to them.
While the finish looked great. and carb was jetted properly for cam and compression. I couldn't believe it when I saw that they installed a piston and metering rods for the primary circuit.
As many would think.. Most carbs get metering rods in the primaries.
But NOT on a 1970 442 W30 4speed car. Those carbs use jets only on the primary side. Carb body isnt drilled for vacuume to pull the piston down. Heck cam is so big the factory didn't put power brakes on the car.
Was dissappointed that a shop with credits in National mags couldn't do a little research on a rare carb
I rebuilt this thing....followed the books...everything went together just fine...made all the adjustments.
However on the car (back when it was running) I could turn the idle air mixture screw all the way out....all the way in....no difference, and it was running very rich. Rechecked all the adjustments...tried different settings...but could not improve it. May be one of the primary jet wells is leaking....sure do not see any cracks or fuel puddles....all I know is that something is wrong.
If there is a shop in Phoenix area that can do a good rebuild of this
E4ME...I would sure like to know...
My thinking too....I replaced the O2 sensor...and tried a MAP from a different car....no change.
The idle A/F solenoid was moving, I just could not get the idle air bleed valve to the correct dwell setting...that and it was supposed to only need 1/8 of a turn....I could make multiple turns and not see a difference. If I blip'ed the throttle everytime after making ad adjustment to the idle air bleed valve, I could see a slight change on the dwell meter. But it still required multiple turns to get to the correct dwell...and then if I checked it the next day....totally off.
Sent the Q-Jet from my '76 to The Carb Shop in Costa Mesa, CA about 6 years ago. They asked for engine specs, etc. It has been trouble free. Runs as smooth as FI once warmed up.
BTW, The Carb Shop in Ontario has a web site. When I was doing my carb, the Ontario shop did not have a very good reputation. Things may have changed.
Never heard about this APT. It is not mentioned in the '81 Service Manual nor Doug Roe's book (in the E4ME section anyways).
I ready through the link above..and interesting that I am using the same 268H cam in my '81. May be I will take the carb apart once again and drill-out the holes...may be that is.
The primary metering rods are controlled by the solenoid...and what I am going to try here is move the adjust range of the solenoid so that it is higher on the metering rods...so that its leaner....
I am going to try working on it again before admiting defeat and sending off to The Carb Shop.
Never heard about this APT. It is not mentioned in the '81 Service Manual nor Doug Roe's book (in the E4ME section anyways).
I ready through the link above..and interesting that I am using the same 268H cam in my '81. May be I will take the carb apart once again and drill-out the holes...may be that is.
The primary metering rods are controlled by the solenoid...and what I am going to try here is move the adjust range of the solenoid so that it is higher on the metering rods...so that its leaner....
I am going to try working on it again before admiting defeat and sending off to The Carb Shop.