0-60 in 3sec
408 with 550HP at 5800rpm
5spd tko 600 0.82od
3.73 rear
Kumho spta 275-35-20 in the back
weight of car is around 2600
Multiadjustable VBP spring in the back
QA1 semi coilovers in front and QA1 adjustables in the back
My question is this, is it feasible to dream of a 3sec car? when i do NOT want to flare the fenders and i cannot go any wider on the backtyres, i do not want to run slicks, this had to be a streetcar, only giveaway to the modifications from the outside is the billet specialties rims and i want to keep it that way.
maybe a 6link could help with better traction? a lower gearing in the back? - can't tell you why i want a 3sec street car other than for the bragging rights
and offcourse the nice fealing of chasing a dream.appreciate any ideas that will get me moving so to speak or alternativly arguments for forgetting the dream
Last edited by PNK; May 12, 2007 at 06:53 PM.
408 with 550HP at 5800rpm
5spd tko 600 0.82od
3.73 rear
Kumho spta 275-35-20 in the back
weight of car is around 2600
Multiadjustable VBP spring in the back
QA1 semi coilovers in front and QA1 adjustables in the back
My question is this, is it feasible to dream of a 3sec car? when i do NOT want to flare the fenders and i cannot go any wider on the backtyres, i do not want to run slicks, this had to be a streetcar, only giveaway to the modifications from the outside is the billet specialties rims and i want to keep it that way.
maybe a 6link could help with better traction? a lower gearing in the back? - can't tell you why i want a 3sec street car other than for the bragging rights
and offcourse the nice fealing of chasing a dream.appreciate any ideas that will get me moving so to speak or alternativly arguments for forgetting the dream






Last edited by MotorHead; May 13, 2007 at 01:43 AM.
Love the look of your car....
ya just gotta love those 68 verts... especially the red ones
Mate, you've got a quick car already.
To get the 0-60 time down further, all you need to do is improve traction to get you going quicker.
The problem is, to get the traction, you place even more stresses on the entire drive train AND chassis.
Be prepared for more expenses to toughen up driveline as well as stickier tyres.
I doubt you'll get that sort of performance on the street though...
Best chance is on a well prepped drag strip.
A wise man once said to me....
"Nothing is impossible.... it just takes time and lots of money!"
Last edited by BKbroiler; May 12, 2007 at 10:07 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
A C3 small block weighs around 3400 pounds, so I'd like to know what you chucked out to lose 800 pounds and still have a functioning car. Let's see, swap cast iron manifold for aluminum......10 pounds?
Swap iron heads for aluminum.........40 pounds. Aluminum calipers, another 20 pounds, spare tyre, 20 pounds maybe. Lightweight starter, another 10....there's a hundred, still 700 to go........
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
If I were you I'd look into the stickiest street tires you could find and try to get the gearing right so you could get to 60 mph in first like the other guys said. Good luck man, I'm also on the same quest your on so I'm following this thread!
If you haven't tried yet, mess with the frontend a little to get more lift and the weight transfer should be better for traction so you could launch harder.





Did not mean to steal the thread................
Last edited by 69 N.O.X. RATT; May 13, 2007 at 12:09 AM.





That said, you're heading down an addictive path of distruction, so you'll eventually be calling Tom's Differentials for a 12-bolt IRS to replace your stock setup. And, if you decide to speed shift, you'll be building a new engine ahead of schedule, too.
Simple fact is, going faster and faster usually costs cubic dollars. So, in you quest for ultimate 0-60's, don't loose sight of the big picture and end up spending more than you bargin for. But, if you can afford to play, all the best!
PS: How did you get your weight down so low??





.............weight of car is around 2600...........
how did you get down to 2600 lbs??
i'm currently at 2.815lbs with my '77 after nearly have shaved all the un-needed weight (the list would be too long...), i'd drop weight by another 60lbs getting an alu blk and maybe another 40lbs building an alu custom front part which holds the 'nose' of the car...but 2.600lbs GEEEEEZ!!!
first off the 68convertible weights totally stock (at least mine did) 1440KG = 3174.5 LB
Ive since shaved of almost everything thats possible without changing the Looks and functionallity of the car, also swapped to lighter parts where possible, incl homemade aluminum brakets for bumpers and stuff like that, i even had my chromeguy remove alot of material on the chromebumpers before chroming.
i made tons of little tweaks here and there that all added up for the weight loss
only thing i need to add for extra weight atm is Toms 12bolt and homemade rollbars behind the seats. i am gonna offset that buy getting an aluminum block.
I am fully aware that this dream cost alot of money (already have more than 100.000usd in the car and i make all work on it myself)
just so that you dont think im spewing numbers out, import tax and transport to DK literally doubles the sparepart prices here compared to the US.
69NOX - that is just
but awesome.TheSkunkWorks - thanks for the idea, but i am allready running a 18lbs RAM alu flywheel.
745400 - hmm yeah i am looking into other tires maybe a set of Nitto would be better for grip.
Strokervette - i am also using the GT-2 for my data, i wholeheartedly agree that shifting costs valuable time i can clearly see on the readout when i shift, so yes going to 60 in first would prolly be the best idea, i have a 3.08 rear in the garage, i will try to bolt it on and see what difference it makes.
OzzyTom - thank you very much mate
i agree my biggest problem is traction, that is why i asked about the 6link and if that could possible help me with better grip?ML67 - Motorhead- i can defiantly see that the consensus is that gearing has to be thought out carefully and i agree, but i would love to know if theres any other options out there for getting more grip, would a bigger diameter reartyre help? 275- 45-20 ?
maybe upping the powerband of the engine, atm its 2500-6200
with a CCbadmuthathumper hydraulic roller, im using a performer rpm airgap but considering swapping to my victorJr just to see if theres any diff.
will shaving more weight equal more wheelspin or faster acceleration?
i am considering a tubeframe for stiffness and weight reducing.
Last edited by PNK; May 13, 2007 at 07:57 AM.

I ran 1.39 - 1.40 60' times at the track.. If you have a 1.35 60' time, you are at 60 mph after 1.35 seconds.. With my new setup and a 250 shot of nitrous, I want to get my 60' times to 1.25 - 1.29 which would make my 0 - 60 time about 1.2 seconds

Another thing that you'll definetely need (other than Drag Radials) is 90/10 front shocks and very soft front spring (I run Moroso Trick front springs 213 lbs/inch - cut down by 2 coils = 250 lbs/inch).
Stock '65 small block springs (from no a/c cars) should also get the job done. You'll also need a VERY stiff rear spring and QA1's in the rear (set VERY stiff too)
Last edited by GrandSportC3; May 13, 2007 at 08:44 AM.










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