Steering box rebuild.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Steering box rebuild.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my steering box, I'm more or less complete. The two units I have to choose from were both harder to turn at center. That meaning it would turn good through the whole stroke of the gear except at dead center where it was slightly tighter. I chose the box that I thought was best and did it. Unfortunately it is still harder to turn at center. The gear shaft was cleaned and fit well with no tight spots by itself and the worm gear seemed good without load. Just wondering if anybody has went through this. I'm suspecting slight wear on the worm gear. Thanks in advance. BTW, everything was bead blasted and cleaned very good.
Rob
Rob
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,160
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
That is correct, the main concern when rebuilding a box is if the gears will tighen up on center as you describe. The important thing is to correctly adjust this with a 0-30 in/lb dial TW. There is no other good way to do it. You do not want more then a total of 13-14 in/lbs on center and this is high.
I have not only been building these for years I have taught several classes on the job. Almost all the wear on gears is from lack of grease,dried out over the years and incorrect lash adjustment. It may feel great tight but too tight and you will roll the center tooth and that will be it for the gears.
The preload should be set before the pitman shaft is installed as well. Also play comes from not only incorrect lash but slop in the bushings, the lash gap in the pitman shaft, and worn steering parts- the ball stud in the cv or center link are oftern overlooked. The typical replacement bushings cut the side play down but to get the best box built you need to have bushings custom fit to the box.
I have not only been building these for years I have taught several classes on the job. Almost all the wear on gears is from lack of grease,dried out over the years and incorrect lash adjustment. It may feel great tight but too tight and you will roll the center tooth and that will be it for the gears.
The preload should be set before the pitman shaft is installed as well. Also play comes from not only incorrect lash but slop in the bushings, the lash gap in the pitman shaft, and worn steering parts- the ball stud in the cv or center link are oftern overlooked. The typical replacement bushings cut the side play down but to get the best box built you need to have bushings custom fit to the box.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
That is correct, the main concern when rebuilding a box is if the gears will tighen up on center as you describe. The important thing is to correctly adjust this with a 0-30 in/lb dial TW. There is no other good way to do it. You do not want more then a total of 13-14 in/lbs on center and this is high.
I have not only been building these for years I have taught several classes on the job. Almost all the wear on gears is from lack of grease,dried out over the years and incorrect lash adjustment. It may feel great tight but too tight and you will roll the center tooth and that will be it for the gears.
The preload should be set before the pitman shaft is installed as well. Also play comes from not only incorrect lash but slop in the bushings, the lash gap in the pitman shaft, and worn steering parts- the ball stud in the cv or center link are oftern overlooked. The typical replacement bushings cut the side play down but to get the best box built you need to have bushings custom fit to the box.
I have not only been building these for years I have taught several classes on the job. Almost all the wear on gears is from lack of grease,dried out over the years and incorrect lash adjustment. It may feel great tight but too tight and you will roll the center tooth and that will be it for the gears.
The preload should be set before the pitman shaft is installed as well. Also play comes from not only incorrect lash but slop in the bushings, the lash gap in the pitman shaft, and worn steering parts- the ball stud in the cv or center link are oftern overlooked. The typical replacement bushings cut the side play down but to get the best box built you need to have bushings custom fit to the box.
Thanks Gary, I'm going to have to get the smaller torque wrench from work. All seems good to go now. Tried fitting the other ballnut and screw and had the same scenario. We learn new things everyday.
