ZZ454 install - long
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 122
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From: Averill Park NY
ZZ454 install - long
ZZ454 change out in 1970 Coupe
Finally finished the zz454 crate transplant, rebuilt front suspension, and have the car running. Some learning experiences I learned to pass on. I am basically a wrench turner with a desire to do more. It was definitely a learning experience, and at this point I can say was fun, however at times during the process, I questioned my decision to do the job.
- Carefully bag and identify all the hardware at disassembly, it seems annoying a waste of time during disassembly, but it makes the reverse process so much easier. I also cleaned and painted all the hardware ahead of time.
- I wanted to keep the same hood, and with careful measuring and thinking I could use a 2 inch high filter with the performer manifold still did not allow enough room under the stock BB hood. The 2 inch high filter puts the filter cover (K&N or stock chrome cover) interfering with the choke plate. I used the original manifold (I know sacrilegious), port matched, and powder coated silver looks great. Initial runs not bad, but I’ll never know what the performer would have done.
- Take the time to setup the engine on an engine stand - alternator, power steering pump, fuel pump, and headers. I have some significant alignment to do to get all the pulleys to line up right. Engine in the car, it would have been very difficult.
- I had some significant modifications to the header flanges in order to work around the head bolts. Again, on an engine stand, this process was much easier than having the engine been in the car.
- The cutch linkage bracket (no boss for the clutch linkage screw-in ball in the zz454 block) caused significant work to get the clutch z linkage installed between the frame and the block. The bracket makes the distance between the block and frame very tight. I sanded the nylon bushings on both ends inside the tube part of the linkage so they were thinner. I also had to do some grinding on the nut that goes on block side of the bracket of the ball stud to gain some more clearance. I was trying to avoid having to do any machining on the actual tube portion of the bracket. I also needed to have a hole drilled into the clutch ball stud bracket to allow for the oil pressure plumbing to be connected. When getting a pipe nipple to extend the plumbing from the block through clutch ball stud bracket, make sure to get one long enough to be sure you can remove it without removing the ball stud bracket. At start-up, I had an oil leak at this oil line and a bear of a time removing the pipe nipple from the block. The bracket is held on by bell housing studs and the upper one is a bear to get out. I original put it in by dropping the trans bracket down(tipping the motor down slightly) for a little more clearance.
- The oil dipstick tube will be problematic interfering with the header and spark plug. I used the exhaust stud for the alternator bracket (basically a threaded bolt with a nut in the middle. I’ll have to remove a nut every time I remove that one spark plug, but at least I will not be removing and reinstalling the header bolt every time.
- Headers are tight!!!!!!!!!!!! I used Headmans. I had to slightly dimple the second runner from the front on the passenger side.
- Mini starter. Wiring is slightly different. Bought the PowerMaster lead wire w/diode from Summit for the 12 volt power line up to the distributor for starting. The starter has a very different sound, at first I thought the gear was misaligned and grinding on the flywheel, but it was just the noise of the starter, the noise from the mini is very different than stock.starter.
I'll try to answer questions later, I'm at work now.
Finally finished the zz454 crate transplant, rebuilt front suspension, and have the car running. Some learning experiences I learned to pass on. I am basically a wrench turner with a desire to do more. It was definitely a learning experience, and at this point I can say was fun, however at times during the process, I questioned my decision to do the job.
- Carefully bag and identify all the hardware at disassembly, it seems annoying a waste of time during disassembly, but it makes the reverse process so much easier. I also cleaned and painted all the hardware ahead of time.
- I wanted to keep the same hood, and with careful measuring and thinking I could use a 2 inch high filter with the performer manifold still did not allow enough room under the stock BB hood. The 2 inch high filter puts the filter cover (K&N or stock chrome cover) interfering with the choke plate. I used the original manifold (I know sacrilegious), port matched, and powder coated silver looks great. Initial runs not bad, but I’ll never know what the performer would have done.
- Take the time to setup the engine on an engine stand - alternator, power steering pump, fuel pump, and headers. I have some significant alignment to do to get all the pulleys to line up right. Engine in the car, it would have been very difficult.
- I had some significant modifications to the header flanges in order to work around the head bolts. Again, on an engine stand, this process was much easier than having the engine been in the car.
- The cutch linkage bracket (no boss for the clutch linkage screw-in ball in the zz454 block) caused significant work to get the clutch z linkage installed between the frame and the block. The bracket makes the distance between the block and frame very tight. I sanded the nylon bushings on both ends inside the tube part of the linkage so they were thinner. I also had to do some grinding on the nut that goes on block side of the bracket of the ball stud to gain some more clearance. I was trying to avoid having to do any machining on the actual tube portion of the bracket. I also needed to have a hole drilled into the clutch ball stud bracket to allow for the oil pressure plumbing to be connected. When getting a pipe nipple to extend the plumbing from the block through clutch ball stud bracket, make sure to get one long enough to be sure you can remove it without removing the ball stud bracket. At start-up, I had an oil leak at this oil line and a bear of a time removing the pipe nipple from the block. The bracket is held on by bell housing studs and the upper one is a bear to get out. I original put it in by dropping the trans bracket down(tipping the motor down slightly) for a little more clearance.
- The oil dipstick tube will be problematic interfering with the header and spark plug. I used the exhaust stud for the alternator bracket (basically a threaded bolt with a nut in the middle. I’ll have to remove a nut every time I remove that one spark plug, but at least I will not be removing and reinstalling the header bolt every time.
- Headers are tight!!!!!!!!!!!! I used Headmans. I had to slightly dimple the second runner from the front on the passenger side.
- Mini starter. Wiring is slightly different. Bought the PowerMaster lead wire w/diode from Summit for the 12 volt power line up to the distributor for starting. The starter has a very different sound, at first I thought the gear was misaligned and grinding on the flywheel, but it was just the noise of the starter, the noise from the mini is very different than stock.starter.
I'll try to answer questions later, I'm at work now.
