Could use some help
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Could use some help
This could be a lengthy e-mail but I will make is as quick as possible,,I am trying to assist my neighbor with restoring his 1975 Stingray, it has not been out of his garage since 84. When he put it away in 84 he let a coworker take the valve covers and carb to clean them,, his coworker bailed on him with the parts.
Well low and behold he has valve covers (M/T branded) and a Holley Street dominator intake (w/750 holley carb) off of his 1980 K5 350 blazer that are in great shape. Does anyone know of they will fit,, the valve covers seem too and to my recollection the 350 in the K5 was an L82 block,,but I might be mistaken.
Also, if anyone has advice on firing up a l82 that has been sitting for 20 years let me know
Thanks !!
Well low and behold he has valve covers (M/T branded) and a Holley Street dominator intake (w/750 holley carb) off of his 1980 K5 350 blazer that are in great shape. Does anyone know of they will fit,, the valve covers seem too and to my recollection the 350 in the K5 was an L82 block,,but I might be mistaken.
Also, if anyone has advice on firing up a l82 that has been sitting for 20 years let me know
Thanks !!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
That equipment will fit fine.
For starting a motor that hasn't been turned in that many years I would do a complete work up, flush all fluids, replace all plugs, wires, filters, belts, battery, and check all vacuum hoses and fuses.
I would even want to prime the motor with a priming tool and a drill, tap the motor over, and prime more. Do this with the valve covers off so you can verify oil flow.
I would also siphon out all the old gas, and fill with new plus a cleaning additive.
There are probably many other procedures and things to check before starting.
For starting a motor that hasn't been turned in that many years I would do a complete work up, flush all fluids, replace all plugs, wires, filters, belts, battery, and check all vacuum hoses and fuses.
I would even want to prime the motor with a priming tool and a drill, tap the motor over, and prime more. Do this with the valve covers off so you can verify oil flow.
I would also siphon out all the old gas, and fill with new plus a cleaning additive.
There are probably many other procedures and things to check before starting.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
M/T valve covers are tall you may hit the alternator mabe the A/C compressor if equipt. A longer belt will take care of that. The 750 is a little over kill for a 350 will work to get it running. My only question is.. Was any gas left in the tank. If so that mabe your biggest problem as it would have turned to varnish. As for priming the engine oil I'd just pull the plugs and crank it over it will be fine.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Okay.
Thanks to all for the input. we put the valve covers on tonight (just to check the fit) and they seem good,,, The car does not have A/C, so clearance seems to be good.
We do have 1/4 tank of gas in car, we shouldn't have a major problem draining it, but is the tank now shot ???
Thanks Again.
K-
We do have 1/4 tank of gas in car, we shouldn't have a major problem draining it, but is the tank now shot ???
Thanks Again.
K-
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If you have a good 750 with vacuum secondaries, it will be fine if properly tuned (as any carb should be). If it's got mechanical secondaries, a new carb will likely be in order, especially if this is an automatic. But, don't go too small. 750 cfm is closer to optimum on a 350 with a street dominator intake than a 600.
Also, you should be OK, but you might want to verify hood clearance before bolting everything up tight, just to make sure.
btw... the M/T's are worth keeping if at all possible...
Also, you should be OK, but you might want to verify hood clearance before bolting everything up tight, just to make sure.
btw... the M/T's are worth keeping if at all possible...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
The fuel tank should be OK but it might have water, etc. in it from condensation. Drain it completely, then flush the walls and bottom with some more fresh gas (poured in...not filled up). Also, get rid of the fuel filter and replace it. Before you hook the line up to the filter [but once you have the engine prepared for starting], pull the distributor feed wire, then turn the engine over to pump some fuel through the lines. Catch it in a can, whatever. Then hook up the fuel line and dist. wire and give it a shot. You should shoot some PB Blaster into the cylinders while you are changing spark plugs. Then let it sit overnight to break any rust/corrosion loose. [Scary proposition, starting one after that long.]
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
From: South Central MI
Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders over night. My car sat for 15 or so years, the old gas burned but stunk. The older gas didn't go bad like the new stuff.
Last edited by Freepop; May 16, 2007 at 11:32 AM.